What do you look for when purchasing a 96-98 Cobra?

SID297

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We all know that every model of cars has its own particular quirks and things to look out for. If you were in the market to buy a 96-98 Cobra, specifically a 'Vert, what would you pay special attention to? Are there known weaknesses or failure/wear points? What would make you hesitate to purchase, and what do buyers often overlook?
 

CzchMex

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Ticking or any kind of knocking noise. It always gets worse. Purchased mine and knew everything about 5.0s but not 4.6s. Guy selling it told me the slight tick was a pulley and it sounded like it came from it. So I purchased anyway. Didn't know it was going to be a timing component which would turn into a top engine rebuild…..go figure. Now I learned.

So if you hear any ticking, it's usually around $800+ to fix if you get it done right.

Also make sure the Check Engine light turns on when you first turn the key to ignition. I never realized that my previous owner REMOVED the bulb to make the light work. He told me it never threw any codes. Bull $#!^. I found out 6 months later changing my bulbs to LEDs….

So if you can take a OBD scanner and read the codes and make sure they are clear if he/she says they pass. Because I now have to "payoff" my inspection….

Hope these help
 

svtcobralover

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Check to make sure the odometer has never been broken. Really all you can do is do a carfax to verify it and see if the mileage matches up and ask the owner (hopefully he's telling you the truth.) Also use common sense, does the car look good for the amount of mileage it has.
Again check for any ticking or knocking sounds. If there is one, I would ask to have it fixed before you buy. Check and make sure the trans is ok. Does it grind when shifting casually. I would also see if you could try to shift aggresively if you can higher in the rpms to make sure they arnt going.
 

Sn8kebitten

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Most convertible mustangs including my own, after a lot of wear and age on the top, it'll start ripping where the top curves down beside the rear quarter windows. So check both sides on that cause new tops cost like $1200 if you let an upholstery shop replace them. Also make sure the rear window is sealed properly.

Another thing I've noticed that go bad on these cars is the filler neck grommet that connects the neck to the gas tank. Mine was dry rotted and I didn't know it one day at the gas station and it burst all over the ground
 

redrocket16

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Unless its a bone stock car, I would see if they spent the extra funds for subframe connectors.

If the top was down alot the interior may start to show some fading too so that would be something to look at.
 

ImThatGuy

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My opinion would be ticking and a car fax. After I bought my cobra, a while later I found that I was the 8th owner, car was slightly ticking when I got it (thought it was the orange FRAM can of death on there lol), someone had been blowing a 125 shot of giggle gas through it, and 3 months after my V1 went on, cracked a ring on one of my pistons.

I would test drive the **** outta of it!

I hope you get a good deal on a one in great shape!!
 

mustang3X

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Rust, engine tick, high miles.

Make sure everything works, don't under estimate how much you will spend fixing a "few small things" if they were cheap to fix the current owner would have done them.

And check under the car for rust and corrosion, this stuff makes installing new parts 10 times the amount of work. It is worth it to spend a few grand more on something that looks factory underneath.

Bring a friend who hates mustangs (or equivalent) and ask him to do a thorough check, he won't miss anything and you will because you'll have that new cobra excitement going.
 
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98 Saleen Cobra

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Get a 97.. the 97's seem to be the best years for the most part.

98's are the bastard child of the SN95's
96's had the cooling issue.
 

Oceanside78

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Skip completely? lol my 96 was an absolute money put and nightmare. Know another guy who's on here a lot actually who's had nothing but troubles. Seems like the 96-98s all head tick and combust with small F/I
 

SVTPete83

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Sid, the 98's fuel setup is a one year only setup. I know that for sure. It's much easier to do a good fuel setup on a 96-7 car. Beyond that I am not sure what the differences were from 7-8. I know there were a few more, I just can't remember them right meow.
 

smashedheadcat

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I've had three SN95 cobras over the years, including one convertible.

I left one completely stock and the only issue it ever had was the IMRC setup failed, as did the check engine light. The bulb burnt out and one day just seemed to have no top end power. Once I finally got an OBD scan it identified the IMRC problem. This failed at approximately 40,000 miles.

2nd Cobra, 96 Mystic- Stock with 4.10 gears and flowmaster catback. This car ran hot on occasion and had a tick in the valvetrain. I had the to pay to have the Cooling mod TSB done, I cannot remember how much it costed though. I think it was $500 or so. I sold this car to buy a 97 convertible.

97 Cobra convertible - Other than destroying every piece of the driveline with a vortech supercharger, it was a great car. The check engine light burnt out on this one as well. The top held up okay, but it is not as nice as the ones you'll find on an 03 cobra. I never had to replace it so I do not know what they cost.

I haven't been very helpful, I know, but these are the only issues that I've had with mine over the years. One thing I didn't like about them, is the seats. They get that "wrinkled" look to them with minimal seat time. They appear old even when they are relatively new.
 

DVJ38

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Get a 97.. the 97's seem to be the best years for the most part.

98's are the bastard child of the SN95's
96's had the cooling issue.

Exactly. That's why I got a 97 lol. 96 is fine though other than the cooling issue. I didn't even want to learn about the 98s honestly.

Sid, the 98's fuel setup is a one year only setup. I know that for sure. It's much easier to do a good fuel setup on a 96-7 car. Beyond that I am not sure what the differences were from 7-8. I know there were a few more, I just can't remember them right meow.

Did you say meow?


Travis, I got mine from the South (Georgia, and originally a Florida car) and it rides so much nicer than cars from the North since the roads are so much better down there. The car has gone over probably 5,000 times less bumps and that combined with the fact that it's had subframe connectors since early in its life means that the car has held together pretty well and I don't have a ton of squeaks and rattles.

If the top is worn on it, negotiate the price down a bit. Upgrade to an 03 style top since that cloth top is so much nicer than these vinyl tops.

My engine also runs very quietly except for a very light tick when hot which I believe is an exhaust manifold gasket on the way out. Ticks and knocks get expensive with these engines.

After you buy it, take out the IMRC's to clean them up and clean the secondary intake ports and valves on the heads. You'll be glad you did. I just put the IMRC's right back in since you don't even gain much power with deletes anyways.

Sorry I can't help much with the whole 98 thing.
 

Apicia

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Get a 97.. the 97's seem to be the best years for the most part.

98's are the bastard child of the SN95's
96's had the cooling issue.

What is this cooling issue you speak of? The other day, my car got hot in traffic. I only have 38k miles.
 

Helomech74

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Don't be afraid of a 98 model year. I've owned 5 SN95 Cobras and they were all 98 models. The fuel system is different from the 96-97 cars, but if you plan on upgrading then it's no issue. Just swap it all over to the earlier style with new parts or parts from the junk yard. The fuel tanks can be had for cheap and all the other pieces and parts can be sourced very easy, nothing much else to be worried about with a 98 model car.
 

Sn8kebitten

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What is this cooling issue you speak of? The other day, my car got hot in traffic. I only have 38k miles.

1996 Cobra A/C condensors have many more blades per inch than 97-98 condensers. So air doesn't flow through as well and they overheat if you sit in traffic long enough. Ford had a TSB for the problem but never a recall. A simple aftermarket radiator will solve the problem. My 96 got crazy hot in August heat if I sat at lights long enough. It got so bad to where I was scared to drive it in the summer. The needle would always be on the "L" of normal and the car would get super sluggish. So I bought a Mishimoto 3 core radiator that me and a friend installed. That was almost 4 years ago and I've never had a single overheating problem again.

Therefore, the 96's aren't bad if you
1. Live in a cooler climate
2. Have had the TSB done in the past or swap to a 97-98 Condensor
3. Drop a better radiator in it and call it a day lol

Edit: also remembered another problem these have but probably isn't limited to just sn95 Cobras, the oil filter housing has a gasket that can go bad or the piece that the filter threads onto can come loose and cause a huge mess all over the back of the block. Now that I think about it, nearly 90% of the common problems these cars have had, mine has had them at one time or another lol. Still trucking with 140,000 miles though
 
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Spiney

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Reading this, I guess we got a good one. We bought our 96 from a guy who really took care of it. It was a garage queen, only used Royal Purple fluids and Shell 93 fuel. Never beat. It has some sort of Ford factory upgrade sticker on the radiator shroud. We bought it in 2011 with 37,900 on the clock. We put almost 10K on it since then with no (knock on wood) issues.

What is the overheating issue with the 96. What's the cause and fix? I've driven her in several parades on hot days without an overheating issue, even with the AC on.
 

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