What kind of compression are you running? Can you post a dyno sheet?
What do you look for when purchasing a 96-98 Cobra?
- Thread starter SID297
- Start date
What kind of compression are you running? Can you post a dyno sheet?
Sorry sid. Forgot to mention I am boosted. Here is my Dyne sheet
If I was going n/a I would probably with 03 heads. That being said, I wanted to be a little different in my build and stuck with my b heads. Comp is 8.5 to 1 and this is through stock manifolds at only 13 psi.
The reverse grind can be avoided by shifting into 5th first. The 2nd gear grind doesn't affect all T-5s, overall it is a good transmission that can handle a lot of abuse. Look at the SC cars that still run them.
My T5 holds a lot of power flawlessly
211000 and still a daily driver, they'll last a long time if they aren't pounded on
the 98 cobra's had a "hybrid" fuel system, something between a return style of the 96/97's and the returnless system of the 99's and up. It was kind of an unique year, not all 96/97 parts will work with 98's, most just not all. I believe the engine wiring harnesses were different as well b/c of the fuel system. Another difference is in the exhaust system hangers, nothing major but different than the 96/97's. And as others have mentioned no clock on the dash and nice wheels.
The 96 cooling issue has more to do with the condenser than the radiator, I changed the condenser and saw a major difference, both with a fluidyne radiator before it cracked and with a stock radiator. I did not notice a difference in temps between the 2 radiators. I also have an SCT handheld and changed the hi and low fan temp's, that seemed to make the biggest difference to me.
I'd recommend finding a car that doesn't appear to have been beat on, I bought mine in 96 with 4500 miles and it's been a DD pretty much since then, she's at 211,000 now and still runs strong for a 16 year old car. I've had a blast with it but I don't abuse it, I've replaced my clutch once, rebuilt the rearend at about 165k, made some suspension changes along with new bushings as the squeaking can be annoying as hell, I don't have sfc's but plan to get them in the future. I've never had any major issues with my car, emissions are acting up now but I turned those off with a tuner. LOL Of course I've never had FI on the car either.
Listen to these guys though, I've read about a lot of issues with some of the used cobras b/c of owners not taking care of them.
The 96 cooling issue has more to do with the condenser than the radiator, I changed the condenser and saw a major difference, both with a fluidyne radiator before it cracked and with a stock radiator. I did not notice a difference in temps between the 2 radiators. I also have an SCT handheld and changed the hi and low fan temp's, that seemed to make the biggest difference to me.
I'd recommend finding a car that doesn't appear to have been beat on, I bought mine in 96 with 4500 miles and it's been a DD pretty much since then, she's at 211,000 now and still runs strong for a 16 year old car. I've had a blast with it but I don't abuse it, I've replaced my clutch once, rebuilt the rearend at about 165k, made some suspension changes along with new bushings as the squeaking can be annoying as hell, I don't have sfc's but plan to get them in the future. I've never had any major issues with my car, emissions are acting up now but I turned those off with a tuner. LOL Of course I've never had FI on the car either.
Listen to these guys though, I've read about a lot of issues with some of the used cobras b/c of owners not taking care of them.
I've owned 2 97 Cobra's. Check the antifreeze when the motor is cold . If its a got brown in it the oil cooler gaskets are bad. Its not a big deal but could be used as a bargaining chip if its bad. After 100,000 miles its a good idea to replace the factory belt tensionor , I had mine go and it took out part of the wiring harness.
You are right, the 98's do have a "hybrid" fuel system. Basically they were the transition from return-style to return less. But this is still not a problem. This plumbing is still return-style, just a return less (variable speed) pump. I've had zero problems with mine and drive it every day. Also I believe the 98's was the first year for engine builder plates on the cam cover.
Hope I didn't imply it was a problem, just different. It's just something to be aware of when looking at replacement or upgraded parts b/c not all 96/97 parts will work on a 98 and vice versa, primarily the engine wiring and fuel components (tank, hat, pump) I believe. :beer:
If I were to find a basically stock car, what would you guys say are the "must-have" mods?
This topic has been discussed ad nauseam, might want to do a search.
First two things that are a must to me are a shifter and sub frame connectors. Those two items make the car feel so much better to drive. From there, exhaust and gears, 4.10 at minimum. Those to me are the must have mods!
I'm sure it has.:dancenana:
Anyone run the Stiffler's sub-frames? I think they look good.
I have had griggs subframes on mine for years. I ran steedas on all my other stangs before that. No difference in the feeling between the two but the griggs look sturdier. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with any of the other brands. The key to good connectors IMO is a good welder!
If I were to buy another SN95 for a daily driver/fun toy, the mods would be made to this extent, in this order.
1. Sub-frames
2. Shifter
3. Exhaust - o/r mid-pipe, cat-back
4. Intake - drop-in K&N filter in the stock air-box
4. Suspension - Springs, shocks, c/c plates
5. Gears - 4.10 minimum w/ speedcal
6. Wheels + tires
7. Better head-unit for stereo
1. Sub-frames
2. Shifter
3. Exhaust - o/r mid-pipe, cat-back
4. Intake - drop-in K&N filter in the stock air-box
4. Suspension - Springs, shocks, c/c plates
5. Gears - 4.10 minimum w/ speedcal
6. Wheels + tires
7. Better head-unit for stereo
THIS
Plus:
-Long Tubes
-Pulleys (SFI approved preferred)
- IMRC Deletes
- Short Runner Intake
- Tune
No no, you did not imply at all. Everything you said to the best of my knowledge was right. I was just saying that although it sounds confusing, it is really not. One Aviator pump and a KB BAP will carry these cars pretty deep in the horsepower safely. Anything more and you need to be looking in to larger fuel lines and twin/triple fuel pumps. Which needs to be done for any car.
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