IRS rebuilding questions. LPW Diff cover or BF IRS brace?
Ive got the car ripped apart right now. I'm replacing all the IRS bushings with the Full MM kit, using coupe springs that I will cut, installing MM FLSFC, etc. I bought the BF IRS brace when I bought the pullies last fall, but haven't installed it yet.
When I ordered everything else, I ordered a LPW IRS diff cover too, thinking I could use the brace with the cover for an even stronger setup. Well the brace won't fit the LPW cover, without lots of cutting and welding. What would be the stronger setup to run?
I was hoping the LPW diff cover was o-ringed like the Fore cover, but it is not. I just don't want this thing to leak when I put it together. Does anyone make a rubber diff gasket? I know you can use RTV, but one RTV sets, and if the car flexes at launch, it basically tears the RTV.
Thanks
Steve
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03 sonic blue cobra vert #3669
86 gt vert-342 sportsman block, ported TFS heads and an S trim
1966 coupe-EFI 302, T-5 and 4WDB
Use the Ford RTV (TA 34), which is much better then stock. This stuff is for diesel oil pan sealing (has nothing to do with a Mustang or a Cobra for that matter). I do not think it will leak if you clean the mating surfaces correctly and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Mine has not. This stuff dries like a rock not rubbery like the poopy stock stuff.
I do not know who would make a o-ring gasket, ask Fore where they get there stock from. Does Fore's have a recessed surface for the o-ring?
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645.5 RWHP/634 RWT on 93 Octane, 16*, 11.4 AFR
Crower Stage 3 cammed 20 PSI 2.3L Gen 1 Whipple
Virgin heads and short block
Supporting mods with 3.73's
Use the Ford RTV (TA 34), which is much better then stock. This stuff is for diesel oil pan sealing (has nothing to do with a Mustang or a Cobra for that matter). I do not think it will leak if you clean the mating surfaces correctly and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Mine has not. This stuff dries like a rock not rubbery like the poopy stock stuff.
I do not know who would make a o-ring gasket, ask Fore where they get there stock from. Does Fore's have a recessed surface for the o-ring?
Yes the Fore cover is a recessed, o ring grooved cover, where as the LPW is flat like the stocker.
Basically I want to know if Ford or anyone else makes a rubber diff gasket so I don't have to rely on RTV. hard or soft, it doesn't matter if I launch the car on slicks at 5K and the cover shifts a fraction of a c0nt hair to make it leak....
i think the short answer is there isn't one available for the lpw......but it might not hurt to contact lpw directly. i checked their website and their 8.8 ford instruction set says this:
Quote:
6. Apply silicone to the cover instead of a gasket to limit cover deflection. Install the cover and torque the 10 supplied mounting bolts to 25 ft/lbs (1/2").
Steve, I have never heard of anyone gernading the pumpkin with a BF Brace installed. Ive put mine through plenty of abuse the last 5+ years and haven't even leaked a single droplet.
You are already on your way to eliminating flex on the back cover by doing the bushings, hopefully Delrin and Aluminum and not poly.
I would sell the LPW cover and use your stocker with the BF brace.
If you want it to be seepage free here is what I believe is needed.(proven to work on a friends car)
Dill and tap(or use inserts, preferred) the diff housing to the next size up bolt, install new next size up bolts and torque them to spec for that size.(it will be greater)
Use the ultra gray or equivalent gray Ford RTV and let it sit over night before refilling and driving.
Drive and enjoy!
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Jimmy
Still kicking!
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Last edited by Jimmysidecarr; 07-15-2010 at 10:35 PM..
You are already on your way to eliminating flex on the back cover by doing the bushings, hopefully Delrin and Aluminum and not poly.
I would sell the LPW cover and use your stocker with the BF brace.
If you want it to be seepage free here is what I believe is needed.(proven to work on a friends car)
Dill and tap(or use inserts, preferred) the diff housing to the next size up bolt, install new next size up bolts and torque them to spec for that size.(it will be greater)
Use the ultra gray or equivalent gray Ford RTV and let it sit over night before refilling and driving.
Drive and enjoy!
full Maximum motorsports Delrin kit with Aluminum Diff bushings. I think the subframe bushings are poly though... It was the full MM race grip package.
What is your basis on using the stock cover with the brace? I'm just asking, not flaming. The stock cover looks very weak. I still might cut and modify the BF brace for the LPW cover... I used to be a fabricator, so this isn't really a big deal to me.
The car is a weekend cruiser, but will see a fair amount of time at the dragstrip. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I just got the MM full length sub fame connectors welded in tonight, before tearing the IRS apart.
full Maximum motorsports Delrin kit with Aluminum Diff bushings. I think the subframe bushings are poly though... It was the full MM race grip package.
What is your basis on using the stock cover with the brace? I'm just asking, not flaming. The stock cover looks very weak. I still might cut and modify the BF brace for the LPW cover... I used to be a fabricator, so this isn't really a big deal to me.
The car is a weekend cruiser, but will see a fair amount of time at the dragstrip. I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I just got the MM full length sub fame connectors welded in tonight, before tearing the IRS apart.
I was just thinking on the money side, if you can make it work with BF brace use the LPW.
i like the LPW cover a lot. has main cap supports and separate drain and fill plugs. also gives you some extra fluid capacity. which helps with fluid longevity and temperatures.
mine fits and looks great and no leaks at all...i did the grey RTV silicone and let it sit overnight. also, make sure both surfaces are completely clean. i used rubbing alcohol on mine. the leaks are mostly caused by repeated flexing of the IRS, remedied with hard bushings and diff mounts. as always, torque to spec and use a criss-cross pattern like you do on lug nuts.
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2003 Mineral Gray Cobra Coupe 1 of 302
#634 Born on 6/17/2002
MODS:
Whipple 2.9L, Lethal Budget Return Style Fuel System, 63# Injectors, C&L intake, Accufab SBTB, Motoblue Tensioner, Bassani Catted-X, Bassani Catback, Evenflow Gen 2 Head Cooling, LFP Dual Pass HE, LFP IC Res, Canton Radiator Res, Steeda Quadrant/Firewall Adjuster/Cable, Centerforce Clutch, CobraBob's Stang Shifter Gaskets, Steeda Tri-ax, H&R Race Springs, MM CC Plates, MM Strut Tower Brace, LPW Diff Cover, MM IRS Bolts, MM Aluminum Steering Rack Bushings, Midcontinent Mustangs Brake Cooling Ducts, Hilton Boost Overlay, 8000k HID's, Smoked Heads/Fogs/Tails, Black 18" FR500 replica's, TOYO Proxes R888 in 315, Bruce's FTBR Complete IRS Delrin Bushings!
Well looking at MM's kit they mix some delrin bushings in with some poly ones. I think it would be best to use "ALL" one type of bushing. Heres a breakdown in price directly from FTBR website.
Q: "How is your kit priced versus the kit I'd get from Maximum Motorsports?"
A: The cost for Differential Mount set (front and rear) is $155.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-40 is $249.95.
The cost for the Delrin Upper Control Arm set is $125.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-2 runs $199.00.
The cost for the Delrin Lower Control Arm set is $285.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-1 runs $349.00.
The cost for our UHMW subframe bushing set is $120.00. The MM poly bushing set, part number MMIRSU-1 runs $49.95.
The best explanation I can come up with for this is "you get what you pay for". Besides who wants poly?!?!
The cost for the Grade 8, 9/16" bolts and nyloc nuts are $10.00 for the pair. The MM bolts, part number M14-109 bolt runs $5.99 each.
The MM nuts, part number M14-nut sold separately run $1.99 each.
That's over a $169.00 difference in price. So, it's your money. Do with it what you want!
The cost for the MM IRS bumpsteer kit, part number MMIRSTR-1 is $149.95 and you do NOT get an upgraded toe link with that kit.
Our kit is $159 and it DOES include an upgraded toe link made of high tensile strength steel.
You have to spend an extra $100 for the MMIRSTR-2 to get an upgraded toe link.
So if you're interested in the bumpsteer/upgraded toe link kit, that would be an additional cost savings of $90 bringing your total cost savings to $332.91!
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2003 Redfire Cobra. Build date 10-3-2002. #3562 of 8394
There are a few different options for ordering IRS kits from MM. The "Street" version uses Urethane Differential Bushings to reduce NVH concerns, as that is the area where most road noise is transmitted. The "Race" version uses Aluminum which is much more solid, but may transmit unwanted NVH concerns. It's purely an option on which kit someone prefers to use. ALL the kits use Delrin for the upper and lower control arms.
And, the "Basic" kit is just Delrin bushings for the upper and lower rear control arms, and the tools needed for the job.
Well looking at MM's kit they mix some delrin bushings in with some poly ones. I think it would be best to use "ALL" one type of bushing. Heres a breakdown in price directly from FTBR website.
Q: "How is your kit priced versus the kit I'd get from Maximum Motorsports?"
A: The cost for Differential Mount set (front and rear) is $155.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-40 is $249.95.
The cost for the Delrin Upper Control Arm set is $125.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-2 runs $199.00.
The cost for the Delrin Lower Control Arm set is $285.00. The MM set, part number MMIRSB-1 runs $349.00.
The cost for our UHMW subframe bushing set is $120.00. The MM poly bushing set, part number MMIRSU-1 runs $49.95.
The best explanation I can come up with for this is "you get what you pay for". Besides who wants poly?!?!
The cost for the Grade 8, 9/16" bolts and nyloc nuts are $10.00 for the pair. The MM bolts, part number M14-109 bolt runs $5.99 each.
The MM nuts, part number M14-nut sold separately run $1.99 each.
That's over a $169.00 difference in price. So, it's your money. Do with it what you want!
The cost for the MM IRS bumpsteer kit, part number MMIRSTR-1 is $149.95 and you do NOT get an upgraded toe link with that kit.
Our kit is $159 and it DOES include an upgraded toe link made of high tensile strength steel.
You have to spend an extra $100 for the MMIRSTR-2 to get an upgraded toe link.
So if you're interested in the bumpsteer/upgraded toe link kit, that would be an additional cost savings of $90 bringing your total cost savings to $332.91!
Thanks for the insite. I did a lot of research before purchasing the kit I did. I also got the full MM Race IRS grip package kit at dealer cost, along with the chrome CC plates and powder coated FLSFC's. I saved money doing it this way and got better quality stuff imo. Nothing against full tilts kits, but they had some problems in the begining and was kinda in a rush to get this kit installed and didn't want to deal with fitment problems due to time constraints.
Last edited by Freakingstang; 07-17-2010 at 12:46 PM..
Thanks for the insite. I did a lot of research before purchasing the kit I did. I also got the full MM Race IRS grip package kit at dealer cost, along with the chrome CC plates and powder coated FLSFC's. I saved money doing it this way and got better quality stuff imo. Nothing against full tilts kits, but they had some problems in the begining and was kinda in a rush to get this kit installed and didn't want to deal with fitment problems due to time constraints.
It looks like a decent kit, I would just swap out the subframe poly bushings for some delrin ones. I have decisions on suspension mods I need to make as well, but I have until next spring to figure it out.
I have had the LPW diff cover for 15,000 miles. No Leaks. Fitment is a bit close to the rear differential mount but it fits. It is really nice to be able to drain and fill the diff in no time. How is your factory diff holding up? I would either rebiuld the clutches with the alternative stacking method with fresh gears and bearings, or put in a Detriot truetrac.
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Black 10Th Anniversary Cobra
VMP TVS Blower
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For $159.14 flows up to 30 GPM
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