Front end clunking noise

[todd383]

On my 08 gt500, when i go over small bumps, the front end is noisey, like bad ball joints, but i drove other gt500s and they seem the same. Does anybody else experiance this?? and if so, what was the cause,and fix?? before i take it too the dealership. thanks

 

[Robertt305]

Has it been lowered? I had this same problem awhile after I lowered mine.. It was a loose sway bar bolt that kept coming loose... I fixed it but using red loctite on it and it never came loose again

 

[GT50008]

There is a TSB to replace the front control arms with 19 mm hydro-bushings vrs the factory 18 mm hydro-bushings.

 

[SicShelby09]

There is a TSB to replace the front control arms with 19 mm hydro-bushings vrs the factory 18 mm hydro-bushings.

That does not fix what the OP is asking about. They all do it no matter if the other owners admit to it. I had this TSB done, and mine still does it.

 

[chuckstang]

Mine just started doing it, right side of car only, over sharp bumps.

Sounds like the upper strut mount but I have the Steedas which were suppose to prevent that.

Didnt notice this until I turned my FRPP shockes more towards stiff, but now it does not matter the setting, I get a loose thud sound over bumps.


Ahhh it never ends with these cars

 

[6-Speed]

Front of my car thunks too, but only while maneuvering at low speed. However my suspension is lowered with FR springs and I have the Max Motorsports C/C plates and I had the LCA TSB done. I have learned to live with the noise as it never occurs while driving at speed.

 

[CPRsm]

Mine does it. I would have sworn it was a ball joint. Quick investigation revealed nothing. I'll look into it a little more if I keep the car.

 

[chuckstang]

Mine is fine while turning, it just sounds like the shocks are gone, although they are brand new lol

 

[Arky51]

I've had this problem as well on the right side only. TSB did not fix.

 

[me32]

i had this problem an the TSB fixed my issue. but when doing the TSB they strip a bolt when they put it back together found out when headers were installed.

TSB 9-24-16 GRUNT/CREAK/SQUEAK/CHIRP NOISE FROM THE LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHING OVER BUMPS - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 8/3/2009 - Team Shelby

 

[Captain Beyond]

My GT500 would sometimes do this. :bored:
My KR doesn't have this issue though. :coolman:

 

[Lad30nyc]

heard guys at my local forum complaining of something similar, these may be causes

Caster camber plate bearings sometime make the sound (if you have CC plates.

bad tie rods make that sound.

Bad balljoints make that sound.

Worn out stuts sometimes make that sound.

I've even seen control arm bushings so worn out that they are metal-to-metal making that sound.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I tackled this problem on a 2008 GT. This applies to the GT500 as well. Read along....

I've been doing a LOT of research and reading, and here is what I know to be the cure for the infamous clunking problem. When I modified my suspension, I took the advice of a trusted member who said to buy the SVT GT500 upper strut mounts. It was an assumption for me, and others, that the "upgraded" strut mount was stronger than the previous design, but we were wrong. Take a look at the link below to see the mounts I purchased.

GT500 SVT strut mounts

If you look at the pictures you will see they have either natural metal studs or "green" colored studs. Also notice the part number M-18183-A (7R3V-18183-A or AR3V-18183-A). They are the OLD Ford design, and will NOT eliminate front end clunk. I always wondered why my original strut mounts were silent, but the new GT500 mounts clunked. Observe the pictures below and find out why.

The first picture is the SVT GT500 mount. Notice it's metal inside, and no added rubber cushion. *Please note the spring rubber seat is currently removed in these pictures. It's installed on my car underneath the Steeda HD Camber plates.*

Now, let's look at the new revised mount from the TSB *The entire strut assembly is still intact. I left the original equipment together.*

Do you see the added rubber material added to the mount? Now, let's compare them side by side.

Ford added extra dampening rubber in the new design. The new part number 8R3Z-18183-B. They will either have a black or yellow stud color design. They are both the exact same mount, the color was changed to black for manufacturing reasons. The tell tale sign if you have the new mount, and don't remember the numbers is to locate the added rubber material in the bottom of the mount where the top of the shock mounts to it.

So, now we know what's required to get rid of the clunk because I know for a FACT the Steeda HD upper camber strut mounts did NOT solve the issue. The New OEM mount is the only thing that will, but how do we adjust for too much negative camber without using cheap camber bolts that have been known to move under load?

Use these instead. They have all the camber adjustment while still using the new OEM strut mount, and not having to worry about cheap camber bolts.

Steeda billet camber adjusters

Now my front end is silent as the day I bought it.

This was added in another thread by someone who had the problem cured.

I confirm the part# 8R3Z-18183-B.
After I sent letters to the Ford Board of Directors, Ford Customer Service
and Bill Ford, Ford Engineer Ralph Arning sent my dealer the 8R3Z-18183-B.
Dealer replaced both struts also as they were both leaking.
Repair completed 6/5/07

I found this info in my THUNK file.
The new mount will look identical to your original except the mounting studs
a few mm's longer. The real change was to the compound of the rubber used
in the mount. The "chuckle" or "loose lumbar" was attributed to the radial
and axial rates on the mount. The new rubber compund corrects this issue
and thus corrects the loose lumbar noise from the front suspension. I've
compared the test graphs of the two mounts and there are drastic improvements
to both the static radial and the static axial rates for the new mount.

Edit: You may find this interesting. From my Thunk file.....
Also, although it's not necessary, adding the 4R3Z-5025-A X member brace will
help with the load put on the upper mount. This may explain why the convertibles
do not have this problem.

Hmmm...Soon after this the braces showed up on the hard tops.
I went with the CHE K brace.

The K member brace was added to all 2008 and up Mustangs after the discovery.

I posted this myself after trading in my 2008 GT.

*UPDATE*

I traded in my 2008 Mustang GT for a 2009 Shelby GT500. You would think since it's a 2009 that Ford would have installed the revised strut mount to cure the clunking problem. NOT!!! My car was built in late 2008, and it still has the old "green stud" strut mounts. My car has 1700 miles on it now and I can already tell the clunking problems are getting louder. WAY TO GO FORD, DEE DEE DEE!

That's OK, after I buy some new springs from Sam Strano I will also be installing the revised mounts.

Now you know why Ford released a new SVT strut mount for the 2011 GT500. Part # BR3V-18183-C

I posted in a another thread

I'm curious what was changed in the -C part. The letter after the dash at the end of the part number is the easiest way to denote revision.

-A is the original part - don't use or clunks are imminent
-B is the 1st revision that cured front end clunk
-C is an upgrade to the -B revision and adds a higher durometer bushing.

I do believe this is a part that has SVT higher durometer bushings, and doesn't have the popping/clunking issues with the -A original part. The original SVT part was also a -A version.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

500 miles ago I installed the replacement -B mounts on my GT500 with Steeda Competition springs. The ride is better than stock and noise free. No more clunking and the front end is dead silent, the way it should have been from the factory. I also carefully disassembled the new mounts before installation and added a lot of extra water resistant grease to the bearings. I have no doubts that this mount will last a long time.

The Competition springs lowered my car about the same as the Steeda Sport springs lowers a 4.6L GT. The car doesn't nose dive on hard braking and handles a lot better in the corners. It also has a better ride than stock and no increased harshness is felt over bumps. These are linear springs, not progressive, and Sam Strano recommended I try them. He was right, they are awesome for the heavier Shelby. They won't satisfy those who insist their car be in the weeds (looks as if the car is sitting on the tire), but they do eliminate the 4x4 look our cars have from the factory.

 

[me32]

Thanks for your input

 

[ZOMBEAST]

500 miles ago I installed the replacement -B mounts on my GT500 with Steeda Competition springs. The ride is better than stock and noise free. No more clunking and the front end is dead silent, the way it should have been from the factory. I also carefully disassembled the new mounts before installation and added a lot of extra water resistant grease to the bearings. I have no doubts that this mount will last a long time.

The Competition springs lowered my car about the same as the Steeda Sport springs lowers a 4.6L GT. The car doesn't nose dive on hard braking and handles a lot better in the corners. It also has a better ride than stock and no increased harshness is felt over bumps. These are linear springs, not progressive, and Sam Strano recommended I try them. He was right, they are awesome for the heavier Shelby. They won't satisfy those who insist their car be in the weeds (looks as if the car is sitting on the tire), but they do eliminate the 4x4 look our cars have from the factory.

Do you know what the spring rate is on these?

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Do you know what the spring rate is on these?

This is a quote I took from another thread, the competition springs were included in the list.

Stock GT500 - Front: 190lb, Rear: 162lb

Steeda Competition (pn 555-8241) 1.0/1.25 - front: 225lb/in / rear: 185lb/in, Testing verified front measure 231lb/in, rear measure 172 and both are linear rate springs.

I'm sure they aren't the best choice for autoX, but for a daily driver, occasional street brawls, and rare drag strip outings, they are perfect for me. Love the ride, better than OEM. The heavier spring rate in the front is for the extra weight of the supercharger, iron engine block, etc.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Looks like the -C mounts (on left side in picture) are impressive. This -C mount is only for 2011+ Mustang strut designs, not 2005-2010 style. There is another mount, M-18183-C, that will work with older 2005-2010 style struts.

 

[OH6GT]

UnleashedBeast you could be the man! I am going to try this Saturday.

Bought my 06 GT in January 2011.
I have been searching this information online since then. Literally driving me freaking insane trying to figure out this clunking sound. I've taken my wheels off so many times thinking "this time Ill find it".

So my first expensive idea was to change everything to do with the springs , struts, shocks, sway bars etc...
Items replaced to this point
1. All Ford Racing Lowering kit Front and rear - Springs, Shocks and Struts, sway bars front and rear.
2. Maximum Motorsports adjustable Caster Camber plates
3. Lakewood Pan Hard bar
4. Ford A Arm brace
5. Both Ford lower control arms
6. Both Ford sway bar end links

I also included the Ford A Arm brace and added the adjustable Caster camber plates from Maximum Motorsports & a Lakewood Panhard Bar. I have even tried the "removing the front sway bar" suggestion, this made zero difference and made the car immediately handle like sh%t.

So essentially many of the items mentioned all over the internet concerning this clunking sound issue has been addressed, and I still have this issue!!!!!

Ive even gone so far as going dynomat crazy.

I'm thinking maybe I have defective MM caster plates and so I'm going to go change this out and use GT500 strut mounts 8R3Z-18183-B

I sure hope changing this out works.
This literally has driven me insane. When you replace everything and it still clunks it takes the enjoyment out of driving the car.

I have 18 inch wheels and the kit dropped the car 1 inch. Can anyone tell me do I need these adjustable CC plates with only a 1 inch drop?
I am no suspension guy, however I have learned a lot lately some say 1 inch or less they aren't needed.

Any updates to this since others might have tried?

 

[OH6GT]

I know this topic isnt that much fun, but I still need an answer.

I have 18 inch wheels and the kit dropped the car 1 inch. Can anyone tell me do I need these adjustable Maximum Motorsports CC plates with only a 1 inch drop?
I am no suspension guy, however I have learned a lot lately some say 1 inch or less they aren't needed.