Question: Garage ceiling height

kencobra

Face Down In Cabo
Established Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2003
Messages
319
Location
Houston
I am having a new home built and the best they can do is raise the 3rd garage bay to 10 feet. I eventually want to add a lift for both light auto work and possibly to store another car under the one on the lift. For $1800.00 is this worth doing for 10 feet or should I skip the extra height and put the money torward a lift and not store another car under the one on the lift, if I am even able to do so with a 10ft ceiling.
 

Nutty 5.0

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
2,086
Location
SE Pa
10 ft is really too low for a lift. I know people have done it, but it really won't allow you to get under there even if its only a car. Most lifts require 12'+.
 

CobraBob

Authorized Vendor
Established Member
Premium Member
Single Barrel Sirs
Joined
Nov 17, 2002
Messages
105,544
Location
Cheshire, CT
Isn't a 10' ceiling in a garage pretty standard? Mine is either 9' or 10'. I would never want one any lower than 12' if I was planning a lift, especially when you using an electric garage opener. I'm surprised your builder can only go 10' on the 3rd bay and wants to charge you an additional $1,800. for that height. Why the limit? Does the 3rd bay extend from the house or are all three bays under the house? Do a Google search on garage ceiling heights and you'll see that 12' ceilings are recommended with most lifts. Remember, too, that you really want to be able to stand under the car when it's up on the lift. If you have to lean over all the time your back is going to start hurting.

Here is some good info I found. You maybe already know all this.

The Space Case
Before you start the hunt for a lift, you need to do some measuring. Lifts don’t fit very well in garages that are less than 22 feet deep. Ideally, the ceiling should be at least 11 to 12 feet high (though this author has used one – carefully – with a 9 ½-foot ceiling). Don’t forget about overhead hazards such as garage door openers, door tracks, and the doors themselves. Chances are excellent that you’ll want to open the garage door with the car on the lift at some point, so measure your clearance with the garage door both opened and closed. For garages where the open door may collide with the roof of a lifted car, consider backing the car onto the lift. It requires extra effort and precision, but a car’s lower hoodline may squeak under the open door where a roof or a trunk collides.
And the link to this info. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Why_You_Need_a_Garage_Lift_Now.aspx
 

cgjarvis

Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2003
Messages
429
Location
Vermont
I built mine using 2x6x10' studs. This gives me about 10'3" with bottom and top plates. The lowest 2 post lift I found was 10ft. If you use an garage door opener....get one that sits above the door. You will also want to consider a door track that goes right up to the ceiling to give you max room.

CobraBob is correct....12ft would work better and you will want to take lots of measurements before you order a lift and even the doors.

Good luck!
 

Quick Strike

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2003
Messages
2,067
Location
PA
I have been looking at these recently. You will need the height of the two cars and 9". This will give you 2" of space under the ramps for the bottom car, and 2" of space from the roof of the top car to the ceiling. 10' is about that with two 55" tall cars. 12' would give you some room to work, and some room for error. Then you have to figure how to open the garage door without hitting the top car when driving in the bottom car. I may wind up using a sliding door.
 
Last edited:

black 10th vert

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2007
Messages
6,188
Location
MA
I have this issue now with my current garage. I only have an 8' ceiling, and I have a drive on lift that I bought last winter that I haven't set up yet because I need to revise the structure so I can raise the ceiling height to 12'. You may be able to get by with 10', but if going through the effort and expense, just do it right the first time, and go for 12', then you can have full versatility out of your lift. I have the lift tracks in the bay now, and park on top of them, and even that much, makes working under the car easier, so I can't wait until it's fully functional!
 

Fangz

New Member
Established Member
Joined
May 15, 2004
Messages
13
Location
North Carolina
I have a Bend Pak 4 post lift with a 12 foot and it's great. Nothing I can't do (even the wife's mini-van). I park my cobra on the top and my other car underneath it every day. Goes up/down in about 45 secs. Run 220V as I believe the 120V are slower. It uses compressed air as a safety latch as well. No air, no going down, so might as well plumb that in too. It will also open up an entirely new way to suck money from you on accessories (or plenty of gift options). Trans Jacks, Stands, Oil Storage, Bottle Jacks, Auto jack options, etc etc etc. If you want to park under...10 won't work. 12 minimum. I'd post pictures, but admin has that off for me...:shrug:

On the opener, get a lift that attaches to the Jack Shaft. I have a chamberlain:

http://www.liftmaster.com/ConsumerWeb/pages/productmodeldetail.aspx?modelId=834
 
Last edited:

Blown10thCobra

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
481
Location
Raleigh, NC
For the garage doors go to Wayne Dalton. They make a new motor that we have that sits directly above the garage door itself. Plus it's super quiet and faster. I forget the name of it but it's definently worth it. Looks so much cleaner than all that arm and chain spanning half your ceiling.
 

HASFANGS

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Messages
525
Location
NY
When i built my third bay, I stick built the roof, instead of using trusses, then when i put the garage door in, I following the ceiling angle witht he tracks. I also lower the floor 1 foot compared to the other two bays...netting me 16'6" to the peak. My lift posts are 141", but you can get them shorter, lots of lifts to chose from. Here are some pics:

GlenmarGarageProgressR1.gif


IMG_2662.gif


IMG_2248.gif


IMG_2811.gif


IMG_2667.gif


IMG_2663.gif
 

Fangz

New Member
Established Member
Joined
May 15, 2004
Messages
13
Location
North Carolina
Wayne Dalton motor is not rated for applications when the door must hug the ceiling depending on height and slope.
 

94ShoOff

AKA Darkside
Established Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2001
Messages
775
Location
Cleveland, OH
I'm in the process of putting a lift in my garage this month. My ceiling is just under 11'. I'm having my garage door tracking run up to the ceiling. Be careful what opener you choose, some of the screw style are not getting good reviews.

I went with the backyard buddy for my four post lift. Even with my less than 11' ceiling, I'll still be able to park my TBSS under the Cobra.
 

PistolWhip

Resident Man Dime
Established Member
Joined
May 17, 2005
Messages
6,021
Location
South Jersey
kencobra, is your builder saying he can't make the opening any bigger than 10', or the entire garage cieling? I can understand the opening, but if a 10' cieling in the garage is an upgrade, I think you should get up in his ass. That's standard in most any garage around here.
The opening should not matter. The standar height is high enough. It's the cieling that you want to be at least 12' high.
 

kencobra

Face Down In Cabo
Established Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2003
Messages
319
Location
Houston
kencobra, is your builder saying he can't make the opening any bigger than 10', or the entire garage cieling? I can understand the opening, but if a 10' cieling in the garage is an upgrade, I think you should get up in his ass. That's standard in most any garage around here.
The opening should not matter. The standar height is high enough. It's the cieling that you want to be at least 12' high.

I have not talked to the builder directly but that is my next step. The ceiling in my current garage is approx 8'5" and I think that is about the standard around here. This will not be a custom built house but the builder who contracts for Meritage Homes ,who we are buying the house thru, will do some extra stuff. I had talked with our sales person who then spoke with the builder and he said 10'. I am going to try and find out if he can make it higher since there will be no second story above the 3rd bay.
 

Jefe

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2006
Messages
18,443
Location
AZ
We went with 10' doors and a 12' roof. Almost wishing we went taller. We will be putting a 4 post lift in.

IMG_0800-5.jpg
 

TRBO VNM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
23,095
Location
Maryland
I would do 12-foot minimum as stated. I have this and we used 10-foot studs and 2-foot of block to keep the lumber cost down. and yes, it was cheaper at the time to do the taller block and shorter studs.
 

Nutty 5.0

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2006
Messages
2,086
Location
SE Pa
I'm at 12' and the over head beam is a few inches between trusses. Not sure if you can see pic, but when I finish the ceiling, I'll have to box above the trusses where the lift is.
 
Last edited:

Mr. Couper

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
586
Location
San Antonio, Tx
I have trusses that run parallel to the car. My ceilings are 10 ft and myfloor goes 300x400 so i am not worried about the garage rails as I can put the car all the way to the back. my question is, can i cut 2-3 trusses and support them a different way so i can raise that part of the ceiling to 12 ft? has anyone tried this?
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top