How to assemble a shortblock

[MalcolmV8]

OK I know a lot of you guys do this for a living and probably have some good tips for me.
I've only assembled a few short blocks in my time and never before such a high performance one. It makes me nervous I get the block and parts back from the machine shop tomorrow.

For gaping the rings will something like this from Summit be good?
Summit SUM-906795 - Summit® Universal Piston Ring Filers

Also I should use a ring compressor to insert the piston and ring assemblies correctly. Something like this?
Proform 67655 - Proform Universal Piston Installation Tools

Any other tips please throw this way. Engine assembly lube on crank and rod bearings I know. I recall there been a thrust spacer on the back of the crank so I know I'll have to check that end play too. More questions as I get into.

I know my questions might seem basic but just covering basics. The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask right? as I said I've put together a few short blocks before (302s etc) so this is not completely new. The 500+ hp is though

Thanks guys
Malcolm

 

[TwinTurbo4vGT]

OK I know a lot of you guys do this for a living and probably have some good tips for me.
I've only assembled a few short blocks in my time and never before such a high performance one. It makes me nervous I get the block and parts back from the machine shop tomorrow.

For gaping the rings will something like this from Summit be good?
Summit SUM-906795 - Summit® Universal Piston Ring Filers

Also I should use a ring compressor to insert the piston and ring assemblies correctly. Something like this?
Proform 67655 - Proform Universal Piston Installation Tools

Any other tips please throw this way. Engine assembly lube on crank and rod bearings I know. I recall there been a thrust spacer on the back of the crank so I know I'll have to check that end play too. More questions as I get into.

I know my questions might seem basic but just covering basics. The only dumb questions are the ones you don't ask right? as I said I've put together a few short blocks before (302s etc) so this is not completely new. The 500+ hp is though

Thanks guys
Malcolm

honestly save your 20+ dollars from summit and get this ring compressor

eBay Motors: Professional Large Piston Ring Compressor 53-175mm NEW! (item 380120149265 end time May-02-09 16:09:57 PDT)

i have this one, and im building my friends motor on his mitsubishi galant and it worked like a charm. Just lube up the walls a little bit when your dropping the piston in. Make sure everything is torqued down to spec, dont want to go over and certainly dont want to under toqrue it

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the link. I got it. I also got this ring filer

Summit SUM-906795 - Summit® Universal Piston Ring Filers

Got these main studs

ARP 03-04 Cobra Main Studs [156-5403] - $99.99 : Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

This gasket set

Fel-Pro 03-04 Cobra Head Gasket Set [HS26187PT] - $249.99 : Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

And while on their site the PPRV delete kit

D'Agostino Racing 03-04 Cobra Fuel Pump Hardware & PPRV Delete [DRI-FPKH] - $75.00 : Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

Then to my local o'reillys and got some engine assembly lube, plastic gauge, and some Marvel Miracle oil which my machinist recommended I use to lube the cylinder walls instead of engine oil when gaping the rings.

More questions to come as parts arrive and I start figuring out assembly

 

[Tractionless1]

Buy a manual, the rest of the stuff is a waste of money without it. My DVD manual shows step by step how to assemble the entire engine. I still wouldn't do it myself and I too have assembled blocks before.

Good luck!!

 

[Silverboost]

Keep us updated and take lots of photo's of the build. I give you props for assembling your own shortblock. Once I am in that situation I think I might give it a go as well.

 

[AaronK]

Righty tighty lefty loosey :shrug:







jk, the manual is a big help. I'm in the middle of doing mine right now. I have to say that I kind of lucked out and I get to use my friends ring filer and ring compressor. Are you rebuilding the shortblock to stock specs? Or are you going stroker or something else?

 

[MalcolmV8]

Hey Guys,

I have the Service Information - 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual on cd/dvd on my computer. Is that what you referring too? If I need something else I can get that too.

My ring filer just arrived today so I'd like to get some work started this weekend.
Yes I'll take PLENTY of pics

One thing concerns me. I was reading the specs that came with the diamond pistons and rings to get the specs on ring gap and it said ring gap is bore x 0.0055 for boosted applications (going from memory). HOWEVER it says ring gap should be checked with torque plates on the motor. Well shoot I don't have torque plates at home to bolt up? How do you guys do it?

I know the machine shop told me when I picked up the motor that if I double checked his work and checked the diameters of my bores they would seem a little oval. He said he didn't mess it up but instead torque plates need to be on when checking as that's how he bored and honed it and that's how the cylinders will be when when the heads are bolted on. So that makes me think there's some merit to the instructions that came with the rings saying to file them and check gap with torque plates installed.

Humm need to do some research.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Are you rebuilding the shortblock to stock specs? Or are you going stroker or something else?

Pretty much stock. Due to scratches in cylinder number 4 we had to machine it 20 over. Heads were surfaced 0.004 to get them clean and straight. Diamond 19cc pistons purchased. Each piston weights exactly 354 grams lol. Machine shop balanced everything. Even the rods, big ends, smaller ends, he gave me this sheet with all the specs, reciprocating weight etc. etc. Great stuff. I guess that's what they call blue printing.
He line bored the block too and said my mains are at 0.002. He also lightly honed rods.
The card that came with the Diamond pistons called for 0.035 piston to wall clearance. Or was that 0.0035 lol. going from memory here. Anyhow he did it at 0.0040 I believe since it's a boosted motor. That's about all the specs I remember off the top of my head. I'll get a pic of the numbers he gave me and post it.

 

[AaronK]

Sounds like the machine shop did a good job. Damn 19cc pistons? What compression are you going to be at with that? I just picked up some 10cc J/E pistons for mine and I'm guessing I should be around 8.8:1 or so. I thought stock was like 15cc or 17cc.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Damn 19cc pistons? What compression are you going to be at with that? I just picked up some 10cc J/E pistons for mine and I'm guessing I should be around 8.8:1 or so. I thought stock was like 15cc or 17cc.

You know that was something that I had a heck of a time figuring out. I even posted on this forum trying to get an answer. I called several places, even Kenne Bell and didn't get any useful info. Eventually I spoke to MMR and they told me factory was 18cc but diamond only makes 17 or 19cc they do not offer an 18cc. MMR told me I should go 19cc. I'm not sure how accurate my machine shops calculations are but he worked out I'd be at 8.37:1 on 19cc with all else stock. He did have to shave 0.004 off the heads to get them clean and square but I think that's so little it doesn't matter.

I called MMR two days ago and told them my heads had 0.004 off and they said that was nothing and to still use stock head gasket thickness with my 19cc pistons.

From the little bit of research I've done 10cc sounds like to little? isn't your compression ratio going to be to high? I would think you want to keep compression lower so you can run more boost? unless you running race gas?
I really wish I had a lot more knowledge in this area. From what I hear MMR is very good at what they do so I followed their advice. Hopefully it works out

 

[MalcolmV8]

As for gaping rings without torque plates. I called the machine shop and he rattled off all kinds of numbers but basically what it came to is this.
He said the torque plate actually opens up the very top of the cylinder bore making it slightly larger. On a cast iron block though he said it's very minimal and the correct way to gap my rings is one inch down from the top instead of at the very top. He said if I had an aluminum block it would be a lot more critical because they distort more.

You can tell my motor was still fresh in his mind because it just pops out his mouth that my bore is 3.5725 and my rings call for bore x 0.0055 so I should have 19 and a half thousands ring gap. He said as much boost as I'm running now and how much I intend on running in the future when I get my kenne bell he said go for 20 thousands.

 

[AaronK]

Well, I should still be under 9.0:1 compression ratio with my pistons. Stock is 8.5:1. There are a lot of people that increase their compression ratio to increase HP. I should be good to about 18-19 lbs of boost on pump gas. I'm planning on running 16lbs of boost and nitrous with my new setup.

MMR has had mixed reviews. I've heard a lot of good things and a lot of bad things about them but I've never used them personally. I would trust their judgment though on things like this. They build a lot of mod motors. I've heard from a few people on here that 15cc is stock (don't know how true that is) and I've seen on websites (lethalperformance, dagostino) that 17cc is the stock replacement. :shrug: I'm not too worried about it. Its only going to increase my power a little.

I've double checked with the shop that tunes my car. They said the 10cc J/E piston is perfect for what I want to do now as well as in the future. I may have to take a little off my heads as well. As long as I stay between 8.4:1 - 9.0:1 I'll be happy.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Sounds like you got it all worked out. That's great. I just hope my motor does ok It's so hard to find exact info on what stock cc pistons our cars came with and what the effects are of having slightly less or more cc. I mean I know the obvious that it increases/decreases compression etc. but I didn't find any hard numbers and I haven't built enough engines to know personally does a 15cc or 17cc piston make a noticeable difference? My guess would be yes.

 

[AaronK]

I agree. Well, best of luck with your build. Let me know how everything goes.

 

[03SVTCOBRA10TH]

I would not do the ring gap without the torque plates. I can let you borrow mine. I would need a deposit, and you would have to cover shipping, but I hate to see you make a mistake on a new motor.

Also, you will want to get a small stone (like the ones used to sharpen hunting knives) and debur the ring gaps smooth and flush on all sides, once you file them to final gap. Remember that that largest scratches on the cylinder walls usually occur on start up of a fresh motor, and result from burs on the ring ends.

You will also need arp lube to use on the threads of the mains and rod bolts, and under the nut heads as well to get the proper torque. A rod bolt stretch guage is far better than just torking the rod bolts, but I am sure you know that.

Good luck and let me know if I can help!!

 

[MalcolmV8]

I would not do the ring gap without the torque plates. I can let you borrow mine. I would need a deposit, and you would have to cover shipping, but I hate to see you make a mistake on a new motor.

Wow what a great guy. I would love to take you up on that offer. I'll PM you for details and I certainly don't mind throwing you a few dollars for being so kind.
Do I need my head studs for this or can I reuse my factory head bolts just for the purpose of bolting up the torque plates? I ask because I haven't ordered the head studs yet but can get those ordered right away if need be.

Also, you will want to get a small stone (like the ones used to sharpen hunting knives) and debur the ring gaps smooth and flush on all sides, once you file them to final gap. Remember that that largest scratches on the cylinder walls usually occur on start up of a fresh motor, and result from burs on the ring ends.

I've read that before and will certainly do that.

You will also need arp lube to use on the threads of the mains and rod bolts, and under the nut heads as well to get the proper torque. A rod bolt stretch guage is far better than just torking the rod bolts, but I am sure you know that.

Actually no I didn't know that. A quick google search and I informed myself.
For others that don't know here's an excellent article that explains it very well.

How to Use Rod Bolt Stretch Tool Stretching Exercise - Car Craft Magazine

Is that how most shops do it now days? the bolt stretch method?

 

[03SVTCOBRA10TH]

Yes any good engine builder will use this method, and I would certainly use the rod bolt stretch method over just using a torque wrench on the rod bolts, but they are somewhat expensive and you will most likely only use them once.

Also, you said that you where gonna use plastigauge, if so make sure you use it dry. Once you use it and all is good then you must break the engine down and apply the assembly lube. If you get it wet with assembly lube it will swell and you will not get accurate readings. I like to mic and use the dialbore gauge, but I know that means more tools and expense that you will only need to use once.

Oh, and one more thing, it is better to use the studs for the torque plates as the stock bolts are TTY and stretch. Also, I torque mine in 4 steps 30,60,90 and then up to 110 ft/lbs and let it sit over night then recheck the 110ft/lbs. Don't forget the arp stud lube or your results will not be accurate.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Yeah I googled the stretch gauges and they are pretty high for a guy like myself that would use it once. ARP molly lube and torque wrench will probably be how I do it.

The machine shop did use the mic and dial bore gauges etc. when he line bored my block and honed the rods etc. He said my mains have 0.002 clearance. My use of plastigauge is more for my own confirmation and double checking the clearance. I'll be sure to do it dry.

 

[bdcardinal]

i dont use the universal ring compressors. i just bought a bunch of the ARP CNC machined ones.

 

[MalcolmV8]

OK I decided to dive into the rings. I started with cylinder number 5 which is on the end of the block and probably one of the most affected by a torque plate. I took a top groove ring and placed it as squarely as possible at the top. Oh I wiped down the cylinder really thoroughly first with some cleaner/degreaser sprayed on a shop towel. When done I wiped it down with miracle oil on a shop towel.
Anyways at the very top of the cylinder the 0.014 feeler gauge fit in snugish to good and the 0.015 would slide about 3/4 of the way in the ring gap but not all the way in. I then used a piston upside down to press the ring down and checked it about 1" down and about 4 more times on the way down till I got to the very bottom of the cylinder. I had the exact same results. I did not measure any difference from the top to the bottom or anything in between.

Does that mean I'm just not been accurate enough or should I be able to gap these rings without torque plates?