Those That Have Replaced the TOB

[Jefe]

Looking for any and all help regarding this since Ive never dropped a transmission. I will be replacing my TOB Saturday on a lift since mine is whining: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/654210-help-new-whining-noise-vid.html

Any tips/tricks/tools that might help would be appreciated!

Found these regarding installs:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...y-26-spline-input-shaft-installation-pix.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/520776-how-t-56-removal-frpp-tob-install.html

Any other threads with pics that might help?


Bought the D&D billet sleeve: D&D Performance - BC24 T-56 Billet Cobra Guide Tube

Pick up the stock TOB from Ford? Any other bearings that should be replaced? What needs to be lubed? Torque settings? Going to pick up a bunch of extensions and a swivel socket

Not planning on swapping the clutch or input shaft yet :beer:

 

[zinc]

If you drop the clutch you might want to replace the pilot bearing and with the TOB sleeve you might want to replace the bearing and race that are on the input shaft

 

[Jefe]

.

Not planning on swapping the clutch or input shaft yet :beer:

 

[rw95gt]

I would go with factory tob.

 

[XyX]

Did you do the LDC freeplay mod?

 

[Jefe]

Did you do the LDC freeplay mod?

Nope, everything is stock so far. And If I order anything else its gotta be here by Friday

 

[JB]

no big deal; LDC freeplay spring can be added later as it does not require dropping trans......I recommend it.

How old is your clutch?

Might want to think about removing it to inspect while you're doing the TOB

.

 

[Digital]

Looking for any and all help regarding this since Ive never dropped a transmission. I will be replacing my TOB Saturday on a lift since mine is whining: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/654210-help-new-whining-noise-vid.html

Any tips/tricks/tools that might help would be appreciated!

Found these regarding installs:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...y-26-spline-input-shaft-installation-pix.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/520776-how-t-56-removal-frpp-tob-install.html

Any other threads with pics that might help?


Bought the D&D billet sleeve: D&D Performance - BC24 T-56 Billet Cobra Guide Tube

Pick up the stock TOB from Ford? Any other bearings that should be replaced? What needs to be lubed? Torque settings? Going to pick up a bunch of extensions and a swivel socket

Not planning on swapping the clutch or input shaft yet :beer:

If you have any asperations to ever make more power I would snag a used clutch off the market now and slap that bad boy in while you got the tranny out as well as upgrading to the 26 spline input shaft.
Honestly the hardest part is getting the tranny in and out so if you're doing it already you mine as well go for broke.

 

[bubblehead93]

Agree with Digital, IMO dropping the transmission is sufficently a PITA (especially with LT headers) that if I was to drop it I would have everything to install that I planned on doing. In addition, pilot bearings are so cheap you would be crazy not to swap it out because other than TOB, pilot bearings are next in line for being VERY annoying when they fail as well. If you can wait another weekend I highly recommend you get all the parts your going to need (clutch, pilot bearing, firewall adjuster, quadrant, cable, etc) now and do the whole job while you have the tranny out. What do you plan on doing with the flywheel, send it out to have the surface refinished or install an aftermarket piece. Have choices there as well, steel vs aluminum, SFI or not, etc. Flywheel-to-crank bolts, I have never dropped a tranny and not replaced the flexplate/flywheel bolts with ARP units - piece of mind. Make sure you inspect the clutch fork and pivot for wear as well.

Just make sure you have a 26 spline clutch in hand before swapping input shafts - lol, I had a friend who did just that, not a big deal if you can do without your car for a while but funny when you can't figure out why the input shaft won't fit in the clutch splines.

 

[Jefe]

How old is your clutch?

Might want to think about removing it to inspect while you're doing the TOB

.

37k miles, still feels great. I think we will since its all apart anyways. With the lift and my cousins(head dealership tech) help I dont think we would mind dropping it again if need be. Its nice having hookups

If you have any asperations to ever make more power I would snag a used clutch off the market now and slap that bad boy in while you got the tranny out as well as upgrading to the 26 spline input shaft.
Honestly the hardest part is getting the tranny in and out so if you're doing it already you mine as well go for broke.

But if I go down that road, im looking at $1200+ to do it right. I have no plans in the next year or more of making more than 500rwhp or racing at the track so I should be fine

 

[Jefe]

Sleeve came in. Ive had a couple guys recommend I replace the pilot bearing while im in there. How much more work would that be? Ford carry this? Anyone know what size socket works on tob/sleeve to put it back in? Any other tools that will help??

 

[ShortThrow50]

no tool will help you with a pilot bearing. Even a puller just pulls the bearings and leaves the shell in there. Some people pack it full of grease and hit it with a hammer. Hell with that though. I used a hammer and a chisel and broke the pilot bearing into several pieces. Pretty easy to do
Napa pilot bearings work just as good as any other.

 

[hammerhead2]

Its really not that hard to drop the trans in these cars (although I did it on a lift which certainly makes it easier). Drop the exhaust and the brace and your there. I would replace the TOB and sleeve and the pilot bearing while your in there. The other stuff is not a must do but if you have the extra cash it would be convinent while you have it out. Although if you don't have a adjustable quadrant and cable I would highly recomend getting one but you can do that without droping the trans. One tip would be to undo the trans from the bell housing first then drop it as that makes it much easier to handle the trans while droping it down. You can feel the pilot bearing full of grease then put your alignment tool into it and tap it with a hammer. It makes it come out very easy. Also if you have access to a trans jack it makes it much nicer.

 

[99cobra09]

I did my TOB & Pilot bearings about 2 months ago pretty easy job if you dont have l/t's. It takes longer to remove the tranny than to replace the parts.

To take the pilot bearing out, pack it full of grease an paper and find a bolt or something solid that fits on the pilot bearing whole and start jammin grease and paper till its full and it will pop right out.

 

[P49Y-CY]

i pulled my transmission this weekend, i am getting kind of used to it now lol!

oh one thing that makes it alot easier imo is removing the shifter

the first time i did it it i left the shifter on there but now without the shifter in the way it is alot easier to clear the hole in the tunnel

it is not too bad jefe, especially since you have a lift. but i hope that you have a trans jack for it too (?)

the toughest part of this job is reaching that top bolt that the vent tube attaches to

good luck

 

[P49Y-CY]

forgot to mention that changing out the pilot bearing takes the job to a whole different level so to speak

you would then need to remove the bellhousing and clutch assy(which includes removing the starter and the mid pipe) not sure if you would need to remove the fw but i am thinking so

 

[Jefe]

Ya Ive been watching the videos online from Spec about dropping the trans. Seems pretty easy if you take the shifter off. I have to anyways since I just put this trans fluid in 3 months ago. Ill just fill it back up from inside the car. Thanks for the tip on unbolting the brace last. I do have access to a trans jack but since the car will be 6 feet off the ground, I dont see a need when we have 4 able hands to pull it out and set it down. Any of you guys jacking the motor up to get at that last top bolt? Read on here it took some guy 3 hours to get the driveshaft bolts off too....Hope mine come off easily

Im going to inspect the clutch as much as I can but I dont feel like taking it apart so no go on the pilot bearing for now. Not looking forward to removing the mid pipe...If anyone knows socket sizes off the top of their head for some reason Id appreciate it. Anything to make this job less time consuming the better!

 

[P49Y-CY]

you will be able to reach that bolt more easily when you undo the trans crossmember and the rear of the engine/trans assy begins to droop down (that is where some sort of jack to hold it up would come in handy)

the driveshaft bolts can be hard but with enough leverage they will come off

13mm crossmember-to-undercarriage bolts
15mm trans-to-bellhousing bolts
12mm 12pt driveshaft bolts



you do not have to remove the midpipe but you must unbolt it from the catback so the rear will be able to droop down

 

[CPViolation]

I didn't install a new TOB/cable myself
Installing an aftermarket quadrant and cable adjuster helps.
Adjustment is weird with these cars. It's a fine line between a whining TOB and premature broken clutch cable.

Maybe I should of replaced and adjusted the cable myself. The clowns who did the job suck. The cable lasted maybe 500 miles.

I won't say who the clowns are. If you look in past threads, you'll know where not to bring your car for a car wash let alone a clutch cable replacement.
Jeff

 

[SVT_BERTO]

I had help when I did mine a month ago. We used a lift. We pulled my trans from the bell and left the bell attached to the block since I wasn'y changing the clutch. Even if I did, I think it's eaisier to pull them seperately. just my .02

1st) Remove the x-pipe and be sure to disconnect the O2's from the harness (they may get in the way if you don't)

2) Remove the bolts that connect the drive shaft to the diff. I think you may want to use the closed end of a wrench for this. (Tip: I had a friend in the car to engage and release the E-brake so that I could turn the driveshaft to get to each bolt.) Pull the driveshaft out. It will slip right out of the back of the transmission.

3) I would reccomend using duct tape to cover the area where the driveshaft used to be so that no fluid spills out when you tilt the trans.

4) Remove the inspection shield and disconnect the clutch cable from the fork.

5) Remove the 4 bolts that hold the trans mount to the frame of the car.

6) Start breaking loose any bolts that are within reach where the face of the trans meets the bell housing, but do not pull them out yet leave a few threads in just incase. You will nee a pretty long extension to get to the bolts at the very top. I think I used a 36" extension for those. You will need a friend to gently apply downward presure on the back of the trans to get to the bolts at the very top.

7) But the bolts back into the trans mount and bolt it back up to the frame. The only reason you do this is for safety while you pull the bolts out that you just broke loose in part 6. Once you remove the bolts from step 6, you can remove the bolts for the trans mount again. Now get a few friends to help muscle the trans out.

8) Rock the trans left to right and up and down a bit. Nothing too extreme though. Then the trans should come straight out.

9) Once the trans is out, you can remove the fork from the pivot ball. Now you can replace the TOB.

10) MAKE SURE THE TRANS IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE FACE OF THE TRANS!!!!!

11) Once the front face is off, you can replace the TOB retainer sleeve. Make sure once you get it in, to apply a thin coat of grease or lube to the sleeve before you put the fork and TOB back on.

I think I covered it all? If not, shoot me a pm and I'll give you my # and can guide you through.