Those That Have Replaced the TOB
- Thread starter Jefe
- Start date
Awesome thanks! Anyone know what size socket works putting the sleeve back in?
IIRC we used my old sleeve and a hammer to get the new one in.
Its not a bad job Ive done it 3 times already...worst part is that top starter bolt and the one of the tranny to bellhousing bolts on the passenger side.
My mechanic got the top starter bolt by coming from the front of the engine, through the opening in the motor mount with a long extention. He got so cocky that he put the bolt back in when putting it all back together.
But if you don't remove the bellhousing plus clutch and flywheel, then no need to touch the starter.
Good luck.
But if you don't remove the bellhousing plus clutch and flywheel, then no need to touch the starter.
Good luck.
Thats what I thought, thanks
If you have access to a trans jack you would be foolish not to use it. Why take a chance of one of you losing your grip and dropping that transmission 6 feet to the concrete below? The T56 is heavier than you think. You also chance tweaking the input shaft once the guide sleeves clear and you suddenly realize the full weight of the trans. Putting it back in will be especially brutal without the jack.
My thoughts were to drop the clutch for inspection of the disc and if you did that then to replace the pilot bearing. But if you arent even pulling the bell housing then just skip it. Pull the cross brace, shifter, driveshaft and unbolt it.
Its an attachment onto a rolling jack so we would have to work under the car with only a couple feet of clearance and drop it onto it. Watching the guys in the Spec video pull it out looked simple but I see what youre saying.
Those attachment type trans jack adaptors don't work so great.
I had one and finally threw it out.. But honestly having pulled a Terminator tranny many times before, I would rather be on the ground with a low profile hydraulic trans jack then standing up with no jack at all. The bottom of the T56 is awkward so I place a couple foam pads on the top of the jack forming a nice V-shaped cradle to hold the trans securely with a cargo strap holding it cinched down tight. The tilting screws on the jack make for a perfect alignment and easy installation.
Here is the jack I use. Works nicely. Scrap the chains and use a ratcheting tie down instead.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
I had one and finally threw it out.. But honestly having pulled a Terminator tranny many times before, I would rather be on the ground with a low profile hydraulic trans jack then standing up with no jack at all. The bottom of the T56 is awkward so I place a couple foam pads on the top of the jack forming a nice V-shaped cradle to hold the trans securely with a cargo strap holding it cinched down tight. The tilting screws on the jack make for a perfect alignment and easy installation.
Here is the jack I use. Works nicely. Scrap the chains and use a ratcheting tie down instead.
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
wjurls do you have the tilting screws towards the front or the back?
i usually put them in front (cranking attachment in back), but i was thinking about trying it the opposite next time. you are right about it not cradling directly to the bottom of the t-56
that is a good jack, has paid for itself many times over for me... harbor freight has some good stuff and cheap :rockon:
i usually put them in front (cranking attachment in back), but i was thinking about trying it the opposite next time. you are right about it not cradling directly to the bottom of the t-56
that is a good jack, has paid for itself many times over for me... harbor freight has some good stuff and cheap :rockon:
I have always used it with the controls on the jack towards the rear of the car. The problem I run into is that the front to back tilt knob sits a bit too high and so the trans sometimes interferes with it. I will just lift the tailshaft up manually a little and it gives me enough clearance to turn it. I bought some cylinder heads from some company on e-bay once and there were these thick black foam cusions in the box that work perfectly to cradle the trans.
Agree 100%:thumbsup:
We had the tranny in-and-out of my car 5 or 6 times when we were installing my RAM dual-disc clutch and it seemed to get heavier every time (and we we using a transmission jack)...
Used clutch is like 250-300$ and the other parts are like a few hundred, how'd you get 1200 out of that?
I would get the Free Play Kit as mentioned earlier. It can be added after the fact but it will help save the new TOB. If at all possible I would also add a new clutch assembly but I understand in this case time is an issue. It is a lot of work to pull it all apart and not do the entire job, just something to think about. At a minimum I would also do the TOB sleeve. That is a must because in many cases that is where the TOB issues come from in these cars.
If im doing the clutch im doing it right, no used clutches for me. 26 spline input shaft, clutch and flywheel are almost $1k alone. Firewall adjuster, quick release quadrant and who knows what else....It adds up fast.
Stock clutch feels fine for now
Stock clutch feels fine for now
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Tomorrows the big day...Picked up the TOB and just noticed the inner ring that spins does not sit flush around the outer area except in certain places when its spun. This is normal or do I need to head to Ford in the am?
That is fine. It's a self centering bearing.
^^ Yes, the bearing is fine. Mine was the same way. BTW, i'm the one who posted the TOB install HOW TO thread. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck!!
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