FPDM Replacement Cured My Hesitation

UFGatorGuy20

UFGatorGuy20
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SEE MY THIRD POST BELOW BEFORE TAKING THIS ORIGINAL POST TO HEART!

Bought my car about 4 weeks ago. Ran great for 2 weeks. Out of the blue, it started to develop hesitation at very minimal throttle from 1500-2000rpms. I could just accelerate through it. From what I've read, hesitation is typically spark plug, MAF, vacuum, FRPS or EGR related. The car also started dying on me after shifting into neutral to slow down (Typically FPDM related from what I've read - http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/640142-car-dies-while-driving.html). I could deal with the hesitation, but the dying while driving is dangerous and could leave me stranded. I ordered a new FPDM from Ford Tuesday. In the meantime, I focused on the hesitation issue. I checked all my plugs (very clean / same gap / same heating signs across all 8), cleaned my MAF, BA Sensor, TB, checked for leaks... no dice to cure the hesitation. Thought it might be tune related. My FPDM came in today. I replaced it in 2 minutes. Drove around... and the car is smooth as butter. Car also starts quicker. Anyways, just thought I'd share. Hesitation is usually a ":??::??::??: great... now what do I check problem :??::??::??:." Not saying FPDM replacement is the cure-all. Just something else to consider after you've exhaust the typical failure modes that cause hesitation. I've read threads where people believe a KB BAP significantly limits the life cycle of your FPDM. Not sure by how much, but Lethal has made upgrades to this component for a reason!

Anyways... probably common sense to 95% of the members on here. :beer:
 
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KINGCOBRA86

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my car stalls out at 5500 rpm @ wot, then when i let off the idle fights from 300-1200 rpm then it just dies, u think its my fpdm... i have a bap ?
 
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UFGatorGuy20

UFGatorGuy20
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Bought my car about 4 weeks ago. Ran great for 2 weeks. Out of the blue, it started to develop hesitation at very minimal throttle from 1500-2000rpms. I could just accelerate through it. From what I've read, hesitation is typically spark plug, MAF, vacuum, FRPS or EGR related. The car also started dying on me after shifting into neutral to slow down (Typically FPDM related from what I've read - http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/640142-car-dies-while-driving.html). I could deal with the hesitation, but the dying while driving is dangerous and could leave me stranded. I ordered a new FPDM from Ford Tuesday. In the meantime, I focused on the hesitation issue. I checked all my plugs (very clean / same gap / same heating signs across all 8), cleaned my MAF, BA Sensor, TB, checked for leaks... no dice to cure the hesitation. Thought it might be tune related. My FPDM came in today. I replaced it in 2 minutes. Drove around... and the car is smooth as butter. Car also starts quicker. Anyways, just thought I'd share. Hesitation is usually a ":??::??::??: great... now what do I check problem :??::??::??:." Not saying FPDM replacement is the cure-all. Just something else to consider after you've exhaust the typical failure modes that cause hesitation. I've read threads where people believe a KB BAP significantly limits the life cycle of your FPDM. Not sure by how much, but Lethal has made upgrades to this component for a reason!

Anyways... probably common sense to 95% of the members on here. :beer:

Well everybody... allow me to quote myself. I just went to take my father-in-law for a ride. Hesitation is still gone, but the car died on me 3 times after going into neutral. Starts right back up though. Didn't spit any codes. I think I have "The Stall". :fm: :fm: :fm: :??: :??: :??:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/635398-stall-question-guys.html

Now I feel like I'm full of it. I don't get it. Car runs smooth but still has the dying while driving problem!

Maybe I got too excited.

Anyways... looks like the next stop is my tuner... JUST LIKE I PLANNED! You can also have the ECU reflashed. I believe you need to remove your current tune, then put it back on after the ECU flash.
 
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Hangman

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order a fuel rail pressure sensor and you will have it running perfectly again, i had the exact same issue, i changed the sensor and it stopped stalling and dying on me while driving, i could also drive through it but it would eventually quit. It takes all of 5 minutes to replace it.

You will most likely wanna change your oil after doing the replacement as you more than likely have fuel in your oil. no big, just get it taken care of, ive gone through two of these sensors so far and i have a spare in my glove box. Kenne bell makes a piece that eleminates the fuel from blowing out the sensor, it is a pressure disc, its about $15.00. Mine is on order and i hear that you wont have to worry about ruining your frps.

Phillip
 

UFGatorGuy20

UFGatorGuy20
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order a fuel rail pressure sensor and you will have it running perfectly again, i had the exact same issue, i changed the sensor and it stopped stalling and dying on me while driving, i could also drive through it but it would eventually quit. It takes all of 5 minutes to replace it.

You will most likely wanna change your oil after doing the replacement as you more than likely have fuel in your oil. no big, just get it taken care of, ive gone through two of these sensors so far and i have a spare in my glove box. Kenne bell makes a piece that eleminates the fuel from blowing out the sensor, it is a pressure disc, its about $15.00. Mine is on order and i hear that you wont have to worry about ruining your frps.

Phillip

Ok... yeah. That was on my list for the hesitation issue. Ugh... I need to be educated! I can only find places that sell fuel rails... I'm guessing I need to go back to the dealer and order that?
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Part # 3R3Z-9F972-AA

I carry a spare ever since my factory one blew, incl. a 7mm wrench. In the console everywhere I go.

I haven't needed it yet but it's there.

There are two modes of failure on these.
1. The diaphragm bursts, filling vacuum lines with fuel and causing an over rich stalling condition. Obviously unplugging won't help this failure mode.

OR

2. The electronics fail, (sensor- board- whatever), Not sure what all the symptoms of this are ... BUT I believe if it is unplugged it may restart and can be limped home or to a shop.

If the diaphragm has burst there will be a STRONG gas smell and probably liquid gas in the vacuum line if you unplug the line. BE CAREFUL if you key the ignition on with this vacuum line off with a burst diaphragm you will spray a lot of gas and could have a nasty fire... in fact DON'T DO THAT!
 

UFGatorGuy20

UFGatorGuy20
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Orlando, Florida
I carry a spare ever since my factory one blew, incl. a 7mm wrench. In the console everywhere I go.

I haven't needed it yet but it's there.

There are two modes of failure on these.
1. The diaphragm bursts, filling vacuum lines with fuel and causing an over rich stalling condition. Obviously unplugging won't help this failure mode.

OR

2. The electronics fail, (sensor- board- whatever), Not sure what all the symptoms of this are ... BUT I believe if it is unplugged it may restart and can be limped home or to a shop.

If the diaphragm has burst there will be a STRONG gas smell and probably liquid gas in the vacuum line if you unplug the line. BE CAREFUL if you key the ignition on with this vacuum line off with a burst diaphragm you will spray a lot of gas and could have a nasty fire... in fact DON'T DO THAT!

I'll be sure not to start it with the line off. I had a strong gas smell a few weeks ago, but I thought that was the result of a gas tank leak I was unaware of (now fixed). No more fuel smell now though. Not sure if I've got a blown FRPS or if it's tune related. Either way, since the FRPS is rather inexpensive, I'm going to pick one up ASAP.
 

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