Rear differential leaking? (also getting steering clicks)

[rideelement247]

Just bought a 2003 Cobra vert and the rear diff is leaking fluid. Can't tell exactly where or how long it has been leaking, will be refilling it tomorrow and will let you guys know how much I put in (which is obviously how much has leaked out) and hopefully I haven't been running too low too long!

Anyone else have this issue? If so, is it just a seal/gasket? How much should I expect to pay out and how long will labor be to fix it assuming no internal damage?

Second issue: turning right gives 3 clicks. Talked to a "good" mustang shop and they said $400 for stock control arms just because the ball joints were bad:dw: which seeking aftermarket control arms found them for around $200. Note they diagnosed the sound just on a test drive. When purchasing the car I knew the car made this noise but thought it was due to tie arm wear since one was new and one was old when I looked under the car. So is it tie arms, just the ball joints, or entire control arm needing replacement? Not looking to get ripped off, looking for a solution that will work for a while but not break my bank.

Thanks guys!

 

[32V10TH]

Only about every cobra owner. Did you even try to search on this one bro? Search will yield PLENTY of results to answer your diff question. Good luck and welcome

 

[FLYIN]

Diff leaking is very common. Gave me an excuse to go with 3.73s and a Fore Diff Cover. Also the clicking I got. Fixed that by replacing the bushings. The clicking in the steering showed up on my car around 8000 miles. The diff started leaking at around 15000 miles. Car now has 17700 miles. Both problems are corrected.
http://www.foreprecisionworks.com/irs-diff-cover.html
Fore

 

[32V10TH]

Terminator FAQs

This is what alot of people switch to bro. I have it myself, well worth it

Mustang Cobra 8.8in Aluminum IRS Rear End Girdle System (99-04) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

 

[rideelement247]

I've skimmed/read through alot of the FAQs. Didn't do a search, figured it would be easier to just post and ask.

Car has 45.5k miles and not sure about any of the servicing of the car (nor do I trust anyone servicing my car but myself or unless I sit and watch it being done). Assuming normal leaking, my rear end should be 100% fine then, correct?

Is there a cheaper fix than a new dif cover? I'll search for the answer now but will refresh this page to check .

 

[FLYIN]

The diff cover is probably fine, just needs to be resealed. That is the only problem mine had. I just used it as an excuse to replace it though since it was off anyway. Thats how most of the mods went on my car. "Well I am in here anyway might as well........":lol: So yea you most likely do not need a new diff cover. I would think about it though especially if you plan on pushing the car up there in hp beyond what Ford made it do. And if it is going to be seeing the track. I used to have an Billetflow IRS brace on before. It still developed the leak though.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Yeah it's easier, but we would like you to read the discussions that have already happened on this topic, you will learn a lot of good stuff.

It only takes seconds to search for "IRS diff leak"

or

"steering creak" (rack bushings)

Then it's just reading the good ones, which usually have lots of posts.

Here are some just from the IRS diff leak:
The search-> http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7474542

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ng-questions-lpw-diff-cover-bf-irs-brace.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...nt-get-pumpkin-out-what-am-i-doing-wrong.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...erential-cover-without-dropping-irs-axle.html

See what I mean? You work with us we'll work with you.

I would mark this one in your favorites, you can thank me later.
FTBR IRS Installation Photo's and Tips

 

[mmustangsrus]

Diff leaking is very common. Gave me an excuse to go with 3.73s and a Fore Diff Cover. Also the clicking I got. Fixed that by replacing the bushings. The clicking in the steering showed up on my car around 8000 miles. The diff started leaking at around 15000 miles. Car now has 17700 miles. Both problems are corrected.
Fore Precision Works, LLC
Fore

This is what I have it myself, well worth it

 

[MAMBA83]

Com'n leak for sure on stock IRS units altough ur in luck there is Plenty of info on here for everything u wanna to do to fix the leak and improve ur diff. Be carefull on ur steering noise it could be ur rack bushing (about the same noise as a bad ball joint) if u decide to get some new rack bushings ( which is much cheaper then two ball joints and worth the upgrade) make sure to get the center pins for them to.

 

[rideelement247]

The diff cover is probably fine, just needs to be resealed. That is the only problem mine had. I just used it as an excuse to replace it though since it was off anyway. Thats how most of the mods went on my car. "Well I am in here anyway might as well........":lol: So yea you most likely do not need a new diff cover. I would think about it though especially if you plan on pushing the car up there in hp beyond what Ford made it do. And if it is going to be seeing the track. I used to have an Billetflow IRS brace on before. It still developed the leak though.

Cover isn't cracked and as I said car drives fine without any major issues, just an occasional thunk into 1st when stationary or shifting. No rolling or load on engine associated thinks though.

Yeah it's easier, but we would like you to read the discussions that have already happened on this topic, you will learn a lot of good stuff.

It only takes seconds to search for "IRS diff leak"

or

"steering creak" (rack bushings)

Then it's just reading the good ones, which usually have lots of posts.

Here are some just from the IRS diff leak:
The search-> http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/search.php?searchid=7474542

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ng-questions-lpw-diff-cover-bf-irs-brace.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...nt-get-pumpkin-out-what-am-i-doing-wrong.html

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...erential-cover-without-dropping-irs-axle.html

See what I mean? You work with us we'll work with you.

I would mark this one in your favorites, you can thank me later.
FTBR IRS Installation Photo's and Tips

I searched "rear differential leak" and got none of that. Sorry. Rather post and get an answer in 30 minutes than read for 3 hours little bits and pieces and still not have the whole story. Just went through all your threads too. Honestly, I can talk engines just about all day 90% of the way through and understand. I am a car nut but not mechanic, unfortunately, although I wish I had the knowledge and tools to do it myself. Thank you for the links.

One thing I am really bad at understanding is suspension, no problem admitting it. I am really bad at anything related to it, I can just look at it and say ok. Except I do understand polyurethane > rubber > plastic.

So understanding my "handicap" what is my best option for making sure this does not happen again? The car is a DD, has intake and exhaust (don't think it has pulley or tune, feels slower than cars I drove with pulley and tune) and at the MOST I will put on a pulley and tune on top of the intake and exhaust. I want a cheap route but also one that will guarantee that the rear end won't leak for another 100k miles. Again, not looking to anti-wheel hop the car (I understand the concept behind it but not all the parts required) I just want the bare minimum parts (or cheapest method) to "plant" the diff so I don't spring any leaks.

 

[MAMBA83]

ur best bet would be to reseal the diff cover and install a support bracket for the case. installing the bracket would help releave some stress on the case which cause the leaks. I totally understand on what u mean on having a hard time finding things on here. as for the type of bushing it all depends on how u want ur steering to feel. lethal explains well on what each type of bushing effects from stock, poly, plastic and aluminum. check out ur options on lethal as for diff reseal kits, support brackets and rack bushings.

 

[MoKo_03SVT]

first you need to make sure it is infact your rear diff cover that is leaking.

for example, i had a shop tell me mine was/is leaking. after inspecting it up close myself, i found that it isnt the cover at all that is leaking the fluid...its leaking from where the driveshaft goes into the diff, and not from the cover it self. cracked/leaking diff covers are very common on these cars....but just b/c yours is leaking, that doesnt mean for sure thats what it is. inspect it closely, and find exactly where the fluid is leaking from. then act accordingly.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

More often than NOT a diff cover leak WILL return.:nonono:
That's just the way it is. Even with all the bushings replaced, brace added and the good stuff ultra grey RTV.
I don't know if guys with the improved aftermarket covers are getting repeat seepage or not.

The only way that I personally know of that completely eliminates the seep is pulling out the center diff housing and drilling and tapping out the bolt holes for the next larger bolt size.

This increases the clamping force of the cover and on every car I have heard of that's done it, they are still bone dry. It's a lot of work, and will cost quite a bit of money.

Mine seeps a little, it's not that bad, a drop or two a month, it's not worth me tearing it apart again.

 

[rideelement247]

Had another shop open the diff and check fluid "supposedly". Guy was under the car for about an hour changing oil, fuel filter, oil filter, and tranny fluid. All looked fine. He claims he looked at the rear diff fluid but the time he was under the rear end didn't seem to be enough to go under there and pop it open and check. Claimed to be such a tiny amount out of the diff and not to be concerned. Sorry guys, don't trust anyone not as anal or passionate about my car as myself. Watched the mechanic do all the work and told him I was going to since I have been screwed over by mechanics before. Which is true and I have plenty of stories but anyways...

If I do have the diff pulled and resealed I think I will get a 3rd opinion. How often should I put more diff fluid in the rear end if I leave it leaking slightly?

Another thing is steering creak. On a frame lift, couldn't isolate it by turning the wheels. Guy took what looked like an aluminum crowbar (don't know the tech term sorry) and rocked the front suspension up and down manually and it seemed to be the front two bolts a little loose and then one back behind it as well. This is a little above the tie rods. Control arm bushings (that I checked myself when pointed out) are not worn or do not need replacing. After driving off and about 10 miles of driving the turning creak came back slightly and eventually just as loud as before. So any ventured guesses or cheap fixes?

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

They check the fluid by removing the plug in the "fill hole".
The correct level is 1/4" down from the top.
If he had "popped it open" it would have drained all over, and would then need to be resealed.
You can learn how to do this. If you don't you will have to trust other people's judgment on whether it's leaking bad enough to need fixing.

How often it needs filling depends on how bad it's leaking.

There are different things that can cause the steering creek. Without weight on the front wheels rack bushings are not going to creek.

How many miles are on this car?

 

[rideelement247]

They check the fluid by removing the plug in the "fill hole".
The correct level is 1/4" down from the top.
If he had "popped it open" it would have drained all over, and would then need to be resealed.
You can learn how to do this. If you don't you will have to trust other people's judgment on whether it's leaking bad enough to need fixing.

How often it needs filling depends on how bad it's leaking.

There are different things that can cause the steering creek. Without weight on the front wheels rack bushings are not going to creek.

How many miles are on this car?

By pop it open I meant he popped open the drain plug hole, lol sorry, not THAT retarded with rear ends or suspensions. Said it was right under the hole and not much had leaked out. Will get a tool and check it out myself. Most of the work on the car I am capable of doing, but being my DD I don't have time to dedicate to breaking the car open and the reason for using a shop to do most of the work comes down to time and not having a lift.

Car has 45k miles on it. Steering creaked when wheel was turned on the frame lift so no load was on the tires. As I said earlier the tightening of those bolts worked for about 10 miles then not so much anymore. Personally I think one or both tie rods may need to be replaced. One was newer looking than the other one when I bought the car. That or some bushing or connection to the steering rack is causing the creak. I will have it on the lift or on stands in a week or so to straighten it out.

P.S... creak isn't really a creak, it is more of a clicking noise. It will click click click rather than squeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaak if you can picture that lol. If the wheels are in a straight line and I decide to turn the car right it makes 3 clicks as the wheel turns and that's it. If I take the car and drive around clockwise in a circle the car makes slow click.....click......click......click noise. Each single click happens about every time the car goes 1/4-1/2 away around the "clock".

 

[Fast GTO]

Mine leaks, swapping in a tru trac, gears, and new cover soon.

Don't spend the $$ on that fore unless you have big HP plans.

 

[rideelement247]

Mine leaks, swapping in a tru trac, gears, and new cover soon.

Don't spend the $$ on that fore unless you have big HP plans.

Thanks, I probably won't. Merry Christmas guys. Been having some problems starting the car every now and then so hopefully I can make it to the family's house!

 

[Fast GTO]

LFP cover is a good budget one to go with that is more than enough. I am going to go with the LFP some new LVL 5 shafts and drag bags for the strip. Worked on my GTO which I had to 10.1 on the stock GTO IRS.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

LFP cover is a good budget one to go with that is more than enough. I am going to go with the LFP some new LVL 5 shafts and drag bags for the strip. Worked on my GTO which I had to 10.1 on the stock GTO IRS.

I believe you may have meant to type LPW not LFP.

LFP does not offer one.

LPW Racing Products, Aftermarket Parts, Automotive Accessories, Muscle Car, Automotive Components, Hush Performance Components, High Performance, High Performance Parts, Rear End Girdle, Rear End Brace, Differential Girdle, Differential Cover, Differ