5-point Harness belts (install)

[Wicked46]

In a few weeks i'll be installed a MM 6-point roll cage in the 03.... At the same time, i'll be installing a 5 point safety harness. Does anyone have pictures or mounting locations specific to our 99-04 body style? I'd like to get an idea of where to mount each part of the harness...

 

[03Cobrra]

The 2 lap belts I mounted to the stock seat belt locations and Wolfe racecraft makes a bar that bolts to the front of the seat bracket for the crotch strap. The shoulder belts obviously get mounted to the rollbar.

 

[Wicked46]

Ahhhh.... Thanks man.. Just searched Wolfe Racecraft for the crotch strap... PERFECT!!!! No drilling or cutting the carpet!!

 

[DSG2NV03]

Thanks for posting up the Wolf Racecraft bar. You think this will fit under the stock seats with the electric seat adjusters in the front of the driver seat?

 

[Wicked46]

I also found one thats made by Steeda... I think i might just make my own with some metal i have laying around.

 

[03Cobrra]

Thanks for posting up the Wolf Racecraft bar. You think this will fit under the stock seats with the electric seat adjusters in the front of the driver seat?

Yea it fits under the stock seats...but you just can't move it up as far as u normally would but that shouldn't matter unless you're 4ft tall.

 

[DSG2NV03]

Yea it fits under the stock seats...but you just can't move it up as far as u normally would but that shouldn't matter unless you're 4ft tall.

Awesome, Only reason I can think to move it all the way forward is to remove the rear bolts in the seats.

 

[Senkak]

In a few weeks i'll be installed a MM 6-point roll cage in the 03.... At the same time, i'll be installing a 5 point safety harness. Does anyone have pictures or mounting locations specific to our 99-04 body style? I'd like to get an idea of where to mount each part of the harness...

I thought you had to be fast to need a 5 point harness? :shrug: oke:

 

[encasedmetal]

here's my build thread- there are some pics of the exact MM cage you speak and 5 point belts. the door bars don't fit my seats though so they're being modified to fit
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/sn95-cobras-24/777596-project-quicksand-build-thread.html

 

[encasedmetal]

oh, and btw- never ever will I get a bolt in cage again- and yes this one will be fully welded instead of bolted.

 

[Wicked46]

oh, and btw- never ever will I get a bolt in cage again- and yes this one will be fully welded instead of bolted.

Thanks for the link!!! Why dont you like the bolt-in?

 

[Wicked46]

I thought you had to be fast to need a 5 point harness? :shrug: oke:

Ohhhhhh No you didnt!!!! lol... I'm coming for you Rickster! :burnout:

 

[encasedmetal]

Thanks for the link!!! Why dont you like the bolt-in?

it is a massive pain in the dick to install, and looks like shit I think. plus to me- it's just gay to say "bolt in cage" and I have one:nonono:
so I will be welding it in for sure

 

[Senkak]

Ohhhhhh No you didnt!!!! lol... I'm coming for you Rickster! :burnout:

I'm just trying to motivate you!!

I'll be at Justin's today replacing my clutch pack.
The one wheel peel is not good.

 

[Wicked46]

Rick, next time your at Justins let me know... I'd love to hang out at the shop with you guys

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

it is a massive pain in the dick to install, and looks like shit I think. plus to me- it's just gay to say "bolt in cage" and I have one:nonono:
so I will be welding it in for sure

Not a whole lot of difference in actual roll over crash functionality, between a bolt in or weld in bar if they are both the same basic design.

A more needed change would be to add "anti-punch through plates" where the roll bar pads attach to the rear outer corner of the rear seat floor wells. And then tie it into your jacking rails or SFCs.

That area is a fairly light gauge of sheet metal and without a little help could punch through if the car gets a little air(going over the tire wall:uh oh::nonono before it lands on it's roof.

I have not seen any examples of an SN95 punching through yet but I did see one on an S197. It was an eye opener and I then looked at my car and I believe I will be altering that little corner section of the floor fairly soon.

I have a "bolt in" Auto Power 4 point road race style bar with the removable cross and harness bar. I REALLY like being able to remove the cross bar and the dangling shoulder straps between events. Between events is quite often a long time.

Take a look at that area of your floor if you want links to some typical fixes for it let me know and I will dig them up, it's not all that tough to beef up that part of the floor.

 

[navyht]

I had the same question and here is what I did.I mounted the lap belts in the stock location but I modified the bracket on the seat to allow me to swivel the belts so I can use either the factory belts for the stree or the 5 points for the track.
Here is a pic of the door side, I used the spacer that comes with the kit which allows you to swivel them.

I made my own bar for the crotch strap out of 1" pipe and a couple pieces of angle iron.

I have to agree with Jimmy, add the down bars to make it an 8 point and tie it into the SFC's.

The shoulder bars are the easiest.

 

[Wicked46]

Nice pics and thanks for the advice!!! I appreciate the help!

 

[Senkak]

Rick, next time your at Justins let me know... I'd love to hang out at the shop with you guys

We spent most of yesterday trimming trees, hauling brush, cutting grass ets..
It was way to hot.
We figured it would maybe take 2 hours to replace the clutch pack.
Once we got the diff cover off we found the spider gears were missing teeth and in really bad shape.
There was no indication of a problem except the clutches being worn out with no torque bias.
The ring a pinion are perfect.
The rear is a 96 so who knows how much abuse it has had.
Do I replace just the spider gears, get a new trak lock or other new diff?
Being on a limited budget sucks!

.

 

[forcefedcobra]

Not a whole lot of difference in actual roll over crash functionality, between a bolt in or weld in bar if they are both the same basic design.

A more needed change would be to add "anti-punch through plates" where the roll bar pads attach to the rear outer corner of the rear seat floor wells. And then tie it into your jacking rails or SFCs.

That area is a fairly light gauge of sheet metal and without a little help could punch through if the car gets a little air(going over the tire wall:uh oh::nonono before it lands on it's roof.

I have not seen any examples of an SN95 punching through yet but I did see one on an S197. It was an eye opener and I then looked at my car and I believe I will be altering that little corner section of the floor fairly soon.

I have a "bolt in" Auto Power 4 point road race style bar with the removable cross and harness bar. I REALLY like being able to remove the cross bar and the dangling shoulder straps between events. Between events is quite often a long time.

Take a look at that area of your floor if you want links to some typical fixes for it let me know and I will dig them up, it's not all that tough to beef up that part of the floor.

couldnt agree more Jimmy! That crash at hallett really made me think since my MM cage backing plates were a complete joke and didnt fit (rear wheel well and main hoop). I'll be making up my own over the winter and then tying the main hoop plates into my flsfc's!