I measured the resistance and found the rears are about 3.8 ohms and the fronts are about 4. One of my rears is bad (open). I can control the shocks with 12v but I suspect this is not the entire picture. The info that Tob found states low "Holding" power consumption (< 1w) in comfort mode. So we need an initial higher voltage ( 12v @ 3 amps) to activate the solenoid and then you would drop the voltage down low to hold the solenoid in that position. Doing the math if we energize with 12v and then drop to about 2v ( @ 0.5 amps), to hold the solenoid position, we would achieve a power draw of about 1 watt which is the stated design target.
Retrofitting '13/'14 GT500 Bilstein Damp-Tronic's to any '07-'12 GT500
- Thread starter Tob
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It's just a guess. I'm thinking something less than 12v will active the solenoid. I will build a test circuit to explore that and also check what voltage that is needed to keep it energized. Might take a few days to figure it all out.
Also seems we both need a replacement. You need a front and I need a rear. I'll have to check my pricing on a rear shock this week.
Also seems we both need a replacement. You need a front and I need a rear. I'll have to check my pricing on a rear shock this week.
I have designed a circuit that I think will properly control the shocks based on the available info we have and some of my assumptions of how they work. The needed parts have been ordered and when I get them and build it the testing will begin! 
Very impressive, definitely interested in your results.
Carl,
Your math is correct but your figures are slightly off (it doesn't really make a LOT of difference though). You need to remember that a fully charged automotive battery is 12.6v (2.1v per cell) and (charging) system voltage is ~14.8v.
I have to say that 3.8-4.0 ohms sounds really really LOW. That's either one SHORT winding or one THICK wire they used to wind. I'm just checking but are you SURE it's 4 (single) OHMS and not 4m (milli) ohms, or 4k (kili) or 4M (Mega) ohms? I guess I'm saying, I wonder if you have your DVOM on the right scale because that just sounds awful low.
Can you tell if there is a 'hold in' winding, like there is in a (Ford) starter solenoid?
I also submit that the low amperage is required for one reason, and one reason only...Because the PCM controls it and diodes/transistors (semi-conductors) can not withstand high amperage draw. A PCM uses transistors and diodes to control output devices (solenoids, relays, LED's, etc.). I'll say it again, I'd bet money that a simple toggle switch would do the job. Automotive type Toggle switches are rated in the 20a-35a range.
You can test my theory by activating the solenoid with a full 12v and holding it with 12v while monitoring the temperature of the area around the solenoid windings.
Phill
Phill,
I'm sure about the resitance of the solenoids. Measured it several times. I was in auto mode on the dvm but I also set the scale manually and still right about 4 ohms. I have not tried keep 12v on the solenoid for very long as I'm concerend about the current that would draw and in fact burn out the solenoid. I'm keeping the numbers simple here but have accounted for the actual voltages.
Ideally I would like to take some measurements on a PP car.
I'm sure about the resitance of the solenoids. Measured it several times. I was in auto mode on the dvm but I also set the scale manually and still right about 4 ohms. I have not tried keep 12v on the solenoid for very long as I'm concerend about the current that would draw and in fact burn out the solenoid. I'm keeping the numbers simple here but have accounted for the actual voltages.
Ideally I would like to take some measurements on a PP car.
I'd like to hear the results...
Anybody here with those shocks can do that with a good DVOM. Don't go between the two wires, go from one wire to the DVOM (red lead) with the other DVOM lead (black (-)) to a good body ground. That will tell you what voltage is being supplied to the shock/strut. If by chance you connect to the wrong wire (PCM supplied ground (-) it won't hurt anything because the way I describe will just be a ground to ground connection.
Does anyone have a FACTORY wiring diagram for the shock circuit? That might help.
Phill
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I have the wiring diagram and pin point testing for the dynamic suspension (as they call it). Short explanation is when you change modes the PCM sends a message over HS-CAN to the IPC which then tells the VDM to adjust the voltage to the solenoids. The VDM is on a 10 AMP circuit. I still think the solenoids operate at something less than 12 volts so I will test that theory. Either way there's nothing complex here to control them manually.
A quick update if you will...I have a new strut to replace the damaged one. It wasn't cheap but the good people at Tousley offered (as always) a great deal on it. I also received the upper rubber isolators for the rear shocks. Sadly, Ford does not sell the lower half of the upper two bushings...
I was told by Ford that the missing lower half of the upper isolator is sourced from Bilstein. I'll keep digging to see how I can come up with two of them.
I also had the good fortune of making contact with someone in a position to help. I can only say that there are some truly good people out there and I'm very thankful for that. I'm trying to keep this project moving forward as slow as it may seem.
I was told by Ford that the missing lower half of the upper isolator is sourced from Bilstein. I'll keep digging to see how I can come up with two of them.
I also had the good fortune of making contact with someone in a position to help. I can only say that there are some truly good people out there and I'm very thankful for that. I'm trying to keep this project moving forward as slow as it may seem.
I can understand it. They make decisions based on *demand*. I can see why they can't make everything available. Who knows, maybe these specific pieces might possibly become available in the near future. Or maybe their numbers are so low that they will become increasingly more difficult to find as time passes by.
Tob
*Except when it comes to FRPP supplying leather Recaro seats, apparently.
Tob
*Except when it comes to FRPP supplying leather Recaro seats, apparently.
oh I get from a business stand point not wanting to have a huge number of SKUs.
however, from the consumer's stand point, it sucks donkey balls.
I had to buy a $120 part for a $20-30 motor. Then sell the TPS and TB to recoup some of the expense.
however, from the consumer's stand point, it sucks donkey balls.
I had to buy a $120 part for a $20-30 motor. Then sell the TPS and TB to recoup some of the expense.
I hear you.
I can say this, I've noticed that the engineering people always try to help as they aren't as entangled in corporate red tape as it seems everyone else is. The modern day CYA mentality has made its way into most everything we do in one way or another.
I can say this, I've noticed that the engineering people always try to help as they aren't as entangled in corporate red tape as it seems everyone else is. The modern day CYA mentality has made its way into most everything we do in one way or another.
Still working on this. Trying to find out if there is a way to rework the voltage output (via an inline resistor or otherwise) so that the Bilstein aftermarket ECU can be adapted to coexist with the factory Ford dampers. If a few minor changes can be implemented I believe the entire Bilstein kit could be used here (without any dampers or springs from them of course). I reworked a diagram I found in a BMW instructional pdf that was included in a Bilstein/BMW kit. Electronically, the kit is universal, requiring only power/ground/damper hook ups/etc.
My fingers are crossed that something along these lines could work! I showed it earlier, but here is everything needed, short of the dampers/springs/etc. It is >that< close to being plug and play...
My fingers are crossed that something along these lines could work! I showed it earlier, but here is everything needed, short of the dampers/springs/etc. It is >that< close to being plug and play...
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