Retrofitting '13/'14 GT500 Bilstein Damp-Tronic's to any '07-'12 GT500

[Tob]

Update...I just received a box from FedEx, the contents of which I believe originated in Germany. Included is a "development" control module that utilizes the appropriate resistance, etc, to work with the factory Ford Bilstein dampers. They also included a couple of pages worth of relevant specifications.

More as soon as I can.

 

[steeltoe]

*Except when it comes to FRPP supplying leather Recaro seats, apparently.

Just the covers for the seat backs are $1800 a piece that might be why.

 

[Tob]

I don't think it even took two weeks for it to show up. I have been speaking with Ludger in Germany, an extremely sharp guy with Thyssenkrupp/Bilstein regarding how to get a stand alone system up and running. I was put in touch with Ludger via Marco here in the US. Both have been a huge help in moving this project forward.

So what I received was a development control module, very similar to the standard Bilstein "ridecontrol" module. Here it is next to the standard one I have showed previously. It wasn't etched, just a machined aluminum extrusion.

On the back, a sticker had been applied to note that it is different than all the other boxes...

ridecontrol
modified SW: 25% Pulse Width Modulation/
100 millisecond fangzeit (literal translation is fishing...must be _____time)

Internally the two look very similar.

The mapping of the circuit board looks identical. The components look to be the same. I'm assuming it was simply flashed differently but don't know for sure.

The following notes were included...

I now should have everything I needed from Bilstein. I'm going to acquire a few other pieces of hardware, maybe some MM caster/camber plates, upper rear shock bushings, etc, and then get started. I'm excited. This should be available from Ford Racing but they have yet to indicate any interest in offering it. I'm going to speak to both FRPP and Bilstein at SEMA in November about it. Bilstein recently came out with some shock/strut hardware and software that allows for real time adjustment via your smartphone. As they put it...

Precision adjustment of the three preset auto-modes (Comfort, Normal and Sport) by varying the acceleration thresholds, switching times and fi lter parameters to create an individual suspension setting

BILSTEIN B16 iRC

Some truly innovative stuff that should allow enough adjustment to make most anyone happy.

I'll get started on this install when I have everything in hand.

 

[Carl]

Nice!!!

 

[stkjock]

hell of a project

 

[jazz05]

sub'd

 

[Tob]

My apologies, as this project and subsequent writeup have lagged a bit. Yet it has all been worth it as I've made a number of connections with some great people from around the world. I've had more people help me with this one that I ever could have imagined. From people here at SVTP. From Bilstein engineers in Germany as well individuals here in the USA. From Ford Racing at the Dealer level as well as from engineering. Maximum Motorpsorts has given me valuable insight and input as well. Thanks to every one of you.

So...I've got the car up in the air for the umpteenth time. I learned that it has been the head unit in my Ford navigation/radio that has been eating my car batteries. I'll be addressing that at a later time (I yanked fuse #56 IIRC for now).

I ordered some more hardware as some of what I had planned on using may have proved inadequate. Specifically, I wanted to use the KR springs I currently have in conjunction with the '13/'14 GT500 Damptronic's. It was Jack Hidley of Maximum that brought up the fact that the KR's may not be able to handle the Damptronic's...

When in Sport mode, these dampers are stiff. I was shocked when I saw how stiff. I would definitely install stiffer springs with them to minimize the harshness. I don't know what the rate on the KR springs are, but in Sport mode the dampers are stiff enough for around 500lbs/in front springs.

Arrghhh....The KR springs gave me just the right drop up front with the rear just a hair higher than I'd wanted, but I've been happy with it. But if the two weren't going to live happily ever after then change it is. So I went straight to the FRPP catalog and chose the 5300-L's as well as the 5570-A Jounce Kit and the 18183-C Mount Kit.

Mike at Buyfordracing has been invaluable to me for decades now and supplied me with the above.

The springs should prove to be a perfect match, again, unlike the KR's I wanted to use. Thanks to Bruce Smith at Ford Racing for making it clear that the KR spring rate was, as Jack had suspected, not enough for Sport Mode. Bruce and Mike also helped me out when I hit another snag. The lower half of the upper shock bushing was proving to be another back and forth match in terms of acquisition (Bilstein says Ford has it, Ford says they only come with the shock assembly...sigh). Anyway, I have them now.

Of note and before I forget - the Bilstein struts used here DO NOT use an external jounce bumper such as the ones supplied with the kit I purchased.

They use an internal jounce bumper that I showed when disassembling one of these struts...

So I should have everything now and will get started as soon as I have the opportunity.

 

[stkjock]

no lift in the garage TOB?

keep up the efforts

 

[Tob]

Thanks brother.

No lift - yet. I'll have one in soon enough though. I did the rear springs/shocks an hour or so ago. It was actually kind of comfortable rolling around on a sheet of cardboard on a smooth concrete floor.

 

[19COBRA93]

Thanks brother.

No lift - yet. I'll have one in soon enough though. I did the rear springs/shocks an hour or so ago. It was actually kind of comfortable rolling around on a sheet of cardboard on a smooth concrete floor.

People might call me crazy, but I actually prefer a nice clean garage floor to a lift. Most days anyway.

Keep up the good work.

 

[Tob]

Thank you Sam.

I figured I'd start out back just to get it out of the way. After pulling the "carpet" over the spare tire well and the two side panels, the shock hardware up top was exposed.

Of note is the rubber bushings that both the stock '07-'09 and KR used which was very similar. When those two bushing halves are compressed together there are some internal voids.

Shock lengths, from left to right, stock '07-'09/KR/'13-'14 Track Package.

As I mentioned, the two on the left use similar bushings. The Track Package Bilstein uses much harder durometer bushings that are a very tight fit. Finer thread on the shock ends too.

Different hardware up top too as the wiring harness pigtail needs to fit inside that nut.

I could not install the Bilsteins the same way the other two shocks were done. It is very difficult to compress them whereas the other shocks are like a rubber band. I'm 6' and 215lbs. I stood one of the Bilstein shocks on the concrete and allowed my body weight to be transferred down into the shock body in an attempt to compress them. I could, a little, but they are extremely stiff. So I had to install them by attaching each one at the axle, then line up the rod/bushing up top with the hole in the floorpan, then carefully raise the axle assembly via a jack. I then kept jacking until I was raising the car off the stands. At that point I threaded on the upper bushing and tightened it down. A much tighter fit than either of the other two shocks.
At this point, I'm very happy I listened to Jack regarding using springs to match these dampers.

They...are...stiff!!

I did use the FRPP (on the right) supplied jounce bumpers out back. Some have neglected to use them as they felt they were the same as the stock units. They aren't.

Here's an interesting comparison of the free height of the springs...

The stock as well as the KR springs are obviously used. I went back through my KR shock/strut/spring install and found the dimensions I had recorded then...

Stock springs measured 13-3/4" overall free length.
KR springs measured 12-9/16" overall free length.

The KR's measure pretty much what they did when they were new and I'd venture to guess the stock ones do too. So my fingers are crossed that the 5300-L springs don't raise the body over what the KR springs had. The KR springs have 9 coils vs the 5300-l's 14 coils. Wire diameter for the KR's are ~ .527" and the 5300-L's come in at ~ .483" (or 13.39mm vs 12.27mm).

So with the hardware out back swapped I took some quick ride height measurements. These are preliminary, as the vehicle is up on stands, but measuring it before and after should still show any change.

Before...

After...

:dw:

For now, ride height is essentially the same. So the 5300-L's compress quite a bit right off the bat. When the car is back down on the ground I'll keep an eye on them with respect to additional settling.

So aside from the wiring, the rear is done.

My initial thoughts - tolerances are tighter. Shocks are much firmer. Springs look to be a match. When I die, there's going to be way too much crap for my wife to deal with. I need to start selling stuff I'm not currently using.

 

[BigTaco]

So no need to adjust the roush upper control arm then .....

 

[me32]

so how is the ride compared to the KR setup?

 

[Tob]

So no need to adjust the roush upper control arm then .....

Very perceptive. You're correct. At this point it should not need to be readjusted but I do expect the rear to come down a little with time. So, I may need to revisit the possibility of a preloaded bushing at a later date.

so how is the ride compared to the KR setup?

If I was done I'd be more than happy to let you know. Problem is, I'm not.:-D

I spent some time yesterday with "Big V" putting together the new pair of strut assemblies.

I took apart my like-new original strut assemblies in order to strip the springs of their isolators so that I could swap them to the front 5300-L springs. I also soldered in some "trailer" two pole wire connectors to the strut pigtails since I couldn't procure the chassis-side harness connector.

I did install the passenger side strut but didn't have time to do much else today.

So I'll keep picking away at the hardware install, then the wiring for the electrical portion. Before I lower the car down I want to swap in the Boss 302S solid shifter bushings as well. More when I can.

Tob

 

[BMARZ]

Awesome! It's been some time since I've followed up on your progress, Tob, but your patient persistence never ceases to amaze me. After driving my car up to Detroit for Mustang Alley in August, I realized I definitely need the ability to swap my car into "normal." While the ride isn't too bad here on Tennessee's roads, I don't think my car can take another trip up north, haha.

 

[HooperWest]

Epic Mod!

 

[Tob]

Brandon, while I sometimes wish I had more time to dedicate to efforts such as this, I'm content in knowing that a somewhat slower pace allows a closer, more detailed look at every option available. And in the case of this mod, failure was not an option. I truly believe the effort will prove to be worthwhile. Hopefully we can come up with a solution for you too.

JTB, just get over here you nut so you can get to modding!

 

[Tob]

I've been picking away at this install when I can and have most all the hardware installed. I knew the wiring would pose some interesting challenges so I started that as I was doing each strut. I tried to be methodical about the Bilstein control box location as well as the harness and subsequent wiring to each damper, as well as power, grounds, etc. I settled on mounting the Bilstein unit near/behind the glove box. I had to find a spot where I could get through the firewall somewhere and didn't want to drill a hole. I found just the spot at the back of the wheel well on the passenger side...

There was a giant rubber grommet that allowed a substantially sized harness to pass through it (the orange line is the stock antenna).

Thanks to Ford for providing a nipple that could be sliced at its tip to allow me to do just what I needed.

I've been wrapping the lines that go to each damper in protective plastic corrugated sheathing, ala factory, as much as the Bilstein harness appears to be very durable. I split two sections into a "Y" once through, with one containing the lines to the front dampers and the other running forward/up to provide a fused 12V connection as well as a ground.

I used white zip ties to make it easier to see how I ran everything. It was all neatly covered up and protected by the plastic wheel arches when done.

Driver side. I left enough arch/slack in the harness as much as these photos may not clearly show it.

And here's what I pulled up from above the windshield washer reservoir. One line uses a 7.5A fuse (power) and the other is a ground. I made an error with one of the colors and decided to de-pin the harness connector at the control box - more on that in a moment.

I soldered each and every connection followed by heat shrink and then protective tubing. Overkill? Maybe. That's how I roll. ;-)

Back to the harness. I mixed the brown and black leads and really wasn't in the mood to tear everything apart when I could simply swap the wiring at the connector. That means the color wouldn't be right but at least the wiring would be correct.

For the 12V ignition source (another fused 7.5A connection) I opened up the passenger compartment fuse/kick panel. The owners manual showed a few unused slots that could be tapped. I chose #13...

I verified that it wasn't constant power but rather provided a clean 12v when cranking/running.

As of now, I have to run the lines to each shock out back, find a suitable location for the illuminated actuation button and then hook up the power leads (as well as align the vehicle!). This is a quite a bit of work but I'm rather enjoying it. More when I can.

Tob

 

[stkjock]

insane detail!


only thing I see that could improve, why not have stainless brake lines in there?

 

[betiwin]

Looks awesome. I'd imagine to replicate this it would be a couple thousand?