12mm vs. 14mm vs. 9/16"

[v3lzie]

You're sorta right... both the 12mm bolt and nut use an 18mm socket. The 14mm bolt also takes an 18mm socket, but the 14mm nut needs a 21mm socket.

 

[HooahCobra]

it was hard enough getting the 14mm to fit, i think the extra .2mm would have sent me over the edge. i now know why they put in the 12mm bolts, there are probably piles of 14's next to the assembly line or in a nearby trash can, lol. my .02mm

 

[rtusnake]

Yeah it was a pain to get the 9/16's in. I've had mine in for a few months and several 1.5x 60 ft runs at the dragstrip. No problems

 

[AssPikle]

You're sorta right... both the 12mm bolt and nut use an 18mm socket. The 14mm bolt also takes an 18mm socket, but the 14mm nut needs a 21mm socket.

Thanks, that tells me I have the 12's in. I will swap them out then and hopefully the rear tink noise will go away..

 

[03SBGT]

TTT for a useful thread.

 

[GSPsnFORDs]

How likely is that bolt going to rust? Would a stainless bolt be better? Do they make a 9/16 12 Cap screw in stainless?

It's a zinc (probably A4C) plating. The A4C is a common plating on bolts that is supposed to withstand a salt spray test for an alotted time. It will be fine.

And about the the Rear IRS bolts from MM, I agree with one of the above statements that these should be a torx head. I have not bought MM's yet b/c I don't want to go through the hassles all of you have already with the allen head stripping. I've been looking for some torx head bolts but absolutely cannot find them! Most of what I find is small but I know they make larger ones...my trucks seats are bolted to the floor with T50 or T55 torx head! Just my $.02

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

Don't worry about that rear upper IRS bolt. No need for it. Shave the stock one, or get some good tires on 9" wheels.

From all the reading on here over the winter, I was in fear that my 04 would need 10.5" wheels M/T's to make it not spin.....NOT. I took the car out in 50* weather with 275 Nitto's on 9" wheels and it is about a 9 out of 10 for wheel spin. Once it's summer and into the 65-85* range, will have no wheel spin. I also have almost 600RWHP. I don't see the track much, but if you do....just skip the Nitto's and go M/T on a 9". That way you don't have to get the low profile bolt.

 

[DaveMan]

I've got a custom set of 16x10s coming for my ET streets. Will I need to shave the bolt or replace it with a lower profile one?

I just did the 14mm bolt this weekend and it was a pita to get in there. Not too bad on the hoist though but still a pain. Tightened the car up a lot though.

 

[FOURCED]

And about the the Rear IRS bolts from MM, I agree with one of the above statements that these should be a torx head. I have not bought MM's yet b/c I don't want to go through the hassles all of you have already with the allen head stripping. I've been looking for some torx head bolts but absolutely cannot find them! Most of what I find is small but I know they make larger ones...my trucks seats are bolted to the floor with T50 or T55 torx head! Just my $.02

If you buy a quality allen head socket you won't have that problem. I thought it was a bunch of crap myself until I found out first hand. And when I mean a "quality" allen head socket I'm talking about Snap-on, and yes it is that big of a difference.

The first set of bolts I had I stripped out trying to torque them to spec with a Craftsman 8mm allen socket. Jason at CSS told me that a Snap-on socket would work better and so I had a friend order one for me... was 18 bucks I believe. I can torque the MM button head bolts on the rear all day long at 76 ft/lbs. with that socket and it not think about stripping out the head of the bolt.

Craftsman 8mm socket measured out at .312, which is really 5/16". The Snap-on socket measures out at .315, which is what 8mm really is supposed to be.



Shannon

 

[GSPsnFORDs]

If you buy a quality allen head socket you won't have that problem. I thought it was a bunch of crap myself until I found out first hand. And when I mean a "quality" allen head socket I'm talking about Snap-on, and yes it is that big of a difference.

The first set of bolts I had I stripped out trying to torque them to spec with a Craftsman 8mm allen socket. Jason at CSS told me that a Snap-on socket would work better and so I had a friend order one for me... was 18 bucks I believe. I can torque the MM button head bolts on the rear all day long at 76 ft/lbs. with that socket and it not think about stripping out the head of the bolt.

Craftsman 8mm socket measured out at .312, which is really 5/16". The Snap-on socket measures out at .315, which is what 8mm really is supposed to be.



Shannon

Hmm you have a good point that I didn't think of. Might have to try some experimenting now. :beer:

 

[SnowMan]

I installed the 9/16" in the front. At first it would not fit. I took a round file and "lightly" went around the hole. I think it was just some slight burrs from the manufacturing process. The bolt slid in perfectly after that.

 

[01cobravortech]

This thread is yet another example of why are rightfully named GODSTANG. :rockon::rockon::rockon:

 

[SVT32VDOHC]

I installed the 9/16" in the front. At first it would not fit. I took a round file and "lightly" went around the hole. I think it was just some slight burrs from the manufacturing process. The bolt slid in perfectly after that.

x2. There is nothing wrong with filing the hole out a tad. That would debur the edge. Nice info! :beer:

 

[AaronK]

I have a feeling this is a stupid question but I'm going to ask anyways... Is this bolt replacement just for the front subframe bolts? The rear bolts are ok right?