4V Gurus.. I need your help. Engine mods (vortech, cop, etc)

Blown_By_You

Richard Head
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As some of you guys may know, I picked up a 4V to sit next to my pushrod car. While I know alot about SN95's, there are alot of specifics on the 4V that I'm clueless on and I need some direction.

First, the Car is a 97 Cobra. 42k miles and bone stock down to the air filter when I bought it.

I've already added an offroad X and catback

I purchased a black V3si trim and need to piece together the rest of the kit.

I will be picking up a treadestone intercooler, piping, bov, etc in the near future. I will have to buy the Vortech Bracket as well.

I plan on doing a coolant crossover delete from MMR as well as head cooling mod. I'm going to need some details on the CC delete.

I also plan on picking up some SD 60's and HPX slot meter in a 3" housing. Intercooler and all piping will be 3", powdercoated black to match.

I want to clean up the engine bay so I bought a redmonster cop harness and 8 new oe cop's. Still looking for a set of valve covers to powdercoat as well.. I know the pcv is different on the cop cars. I would like to run an oil separator and I need to know what I'm going to need and where it goes.

Where can I get the silicone coupler to go from the metal procharger discharge pipe to the throttle body?

Tuning? Car will need to be remote tuned.. What are my options and who would be a good choice? (was thinking lund but i'm not sure if he'll remote tune a 98:

IMRC's? Plan to make 430-450 rwhp and autox the car. Should I do anything with the IMRC's after the Vortech besides take them apart and clean them when I installed the injectors.
 
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2DXTRM

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You can do an IMRC delete.

Check out House of Boost for their dedicated drive bracket system, uses a seperate belt for the blower instead of one belt to drive everything. http://www.houseofboost.com/store/4v-ford-mustang-dedicated-bracket-system.html

Hose Techniques or hightempsilicone.com should have a oval to round transition silicone coupler. You need something like a 4.25 or 4.5 inch oval to fit over the TB.
 

Blown_By_You

Richard Head
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I'll just be buying a new oe vortech setup for $300..

I know I CAN delete the IMRC's, but I see NA usually recommends not too. Does that also apply in a blown application?
 

YellowSVTCobra

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Boost does not go well with the imrc's from everything that I have read. Beautiful car! I like it!
 
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Blown_By_You

Richard Head
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My 96 cobra sits at 462/411 with a V1 T trim at 10.5 psi and my IMRCs are still on there.
THIS is exactly why I made this thread.
Picked up some 03 Valve Covers last night as well as a full tilt boogied, level 5 half shafted IRS with 3.73 gears.
Little overkill but it was a deal I could not pass up! This IRS literally has every single aftermarket piece you can buy.
Boost does not go well with the imrc's from everything that I have read. Beautiful car! I like it!
 

Blown_By_You

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New Wheels

uploadfromtaptalk1448632055096.jpg
 

ZeroDCX

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As long as they are functioning and spark tables are compensated for them in the tune, there will be no issues.
 

cbrown9064

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Where can I get the silicone coupler to go from the metal procharger discharge pipe to the throttle body?

Tuning? Car will need to be remote tuned.. What are my options and who would be a good choice? (was thinking lund but i'm not sure if he'll remote tune a 98:

IMRC's? Plan to make 430-450 rwhp and autox the car. Should I do anything with the IMRC's after the Vortech besides take them apart and clean them when I installed the injectors.

Couplers, t-bolt clamps, piping can be found at Frozen Boost http://www.frozenboost.com When I did my build I fabbed up all of the piping and shipping from them was fast. I think they ship out of Colorado. I believe that I used a 4.5" round coupling to go from my Vortech Discharge pipe (oval to the Throttle Body. They do make silicone reducers, but dont know if you can go 4.5-3. Looks like 4.5-3.5 is as much as they reduce (dont know Procharge pipe size).

When I did mine, I had a Paxton intercooler that the inlet and outlet are in the center and come up just behind radiator. So the piping was pretty simple. But I did get a aluminum bung for the Slot MAF and welded it in the pipe in such a way that it was hidden when looking in the engine compartment. I also got a conversion harness from SCT and soldered in the IAT sensor to the slot MAF conversion harness. So the net effect was MAF and IAT in one sensor and you could not see the wires.

For tuning I wanted to learn this, and did a QuarterHorse and Binary Editor. I got remote tuning services from Willie Lynch at Dirty Dirty Racing. He is great to work with. Another great tuner is Decipha at efidynotuning.com Bottom line, determine who you want to work with and then see what hardware/software they support.

IMRCs, I still have mine in. Laid down 468rwhp on a eddy current at 11psi. With a forced induction setup and low gears, you really cant feel them anymore. I run 4.10s and am going to delete them this winter. I am getting some missing up top and the IMRC datalog values show some changes in voltages that I am not happy with. But am not totally decided yet. When it all comes down to it, if you are geared down, they dont really help much with a blower. If they are fully functional they dont hurt (at these power levels either).

You dont get to "clean" the IMRCs when you put injectors in. You are only removing the top half of the intake to install injectors. You need to pull the bottom half to get the IMRCs out. With a 1997 car you should still have cast (versus phenolic) IMRCs and reusable gaskets. So that is something...

Good luck! These B headed cars like the boost. Just be careful with timing/detonation.
 

LDC2335

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Throttle body coupler is a 4.5".

Imrc gave me nothing but trouble after boost. I zip tied them open and retuned.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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you may want to look at the cross over delete that on3 performance sells, its much cleaner looking than the MMR one in my opinion.
 

BOTTLEFED5

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Delete the imrcs it will save you headaches down the road,dont do the coil on plug swap it doesnt work correctly with the waste spark system
 

Blown_By_You

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Delete the imrcs it will save you headaches down the road,dont do the coil on plug swap it doesnt work correctly with the waste spark system
Redmonster seems to have quite a few happy customers on here so I'm going to give it a shot. I have everything I need now. I don't expect to turn over 6200 rpm or make over 450rwhp. I'd install a boost a spark if I had to.

Speaking of spark, how do you add a Rev limiter to these cars?
 

Blown_By_You

Richard Head
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Couplers, t-bolt clamps, piping can be found at Frozen Boost http://www.frozenboost.com When I did my build I fabbed up all of the piping and shipping from them was fast. I think they ship out of Colorado. I believe that I used a 4.5" round coupling to go from my Vortech Discharge pipe (oval to the Throttle Body. They do make silicone reducers, but dont know if you can go 4.5-3. Looks like 4.5-3.5 is as much as they reduce (dont know Procharge pipe size).

When I did mine, I had a Paxton intercooler that the inlet and outlet are in the center and come up just behind radiator. So the piping was pretty simple. But I did get a aluminum bung for the Slot MAF and welded it in the pipe in such a way that it was hidden when looking in the engine compartment. I also got a conversion harness from SCT and soldered in the IAT sensor to the slot MAF conversion harness. So the net effect was MAF and IAT in one sensor and you could not see the wires.

For tuning I wanted to learn this, and did a QuarterHorse and Binary Editor. I got remote tuning services from Willie Lynch at Dirty Dirty Racing. He is great to work with. Another great tuner is Decipha at efidynotuning.com Bottom line, determine who you want to work with and then see what hardware/software they support.

IMRCs, I still have mine in. Laid down 468rwhp on a eddy current at 11psi. With a forced induction setup and low gears, you really cant feel them anymore. I run 4.10s and am going to delete them this winter. I am getting some missing up top and the IMRC datalog values show some changes in voltages that I am not happy with. But am not totally decided yet. When it all comes down to it, if you are geared down, they dont really help much with a blower. If they are fully functional they dont hurt (at these power levels either).

You dont get to "clean" the IMRCs when you put injectors in. You are only removing the top half of the intake to install injectors. You need to pull the bottom half to get the IMRCs out. With a 1997 car you should still have cast (versus phenolic) IMRCs and reusable gaskets. So that is something...

Good luck! These B headed cars like the boost. Just be careful with timing/detonation.
I'm very familiar with the quarter horse and decipha. He helped me tune my 95. I did pop a HG when the meth didn't activate, but that wasn't really his fault. I certainly don't want to hurt this motor. The quarter horse would certainly be the cheapest option since I already have Binary Editor and Engine Analyzer. This is my first OBD2 car in many years and I was just curious what all of my options were. I'll be running an Innovate LC1, boost, and fp gauges
 

BOTTLEFED5

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Redmonster seems to have quite a few happy customers on here so I'm going to give it a shot. I have everything I need now. I don't expect to turn over 6200 rpm or make over 450rwhp. I'd install a boost a spark if I had to.

Speaking of spark, how do you add a Rev limiter to these cars?
Not bashing what he makes it serves its function but it doesnt work correctly it fires the coils twice as much so when your ar 6k your coils are firing like 12k which causes issues is the simplest way to put this, and if you have a sct hand held you can set the rev limit thru that
 

Blown_By_You

Richard Head
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Not bashing what he makes it serves its function but it doesnt work correctly it fires the coils twice as much so when your ar 6k your coils are firing like 12k which causes issues is the simplest way to put this, and if you have a sct hand held you can set the rev limit thru that
I understand how wasted spark works. When setting the Rev limit with the tune, doesn't it cut fuel instead of spark? Or was that just an OBD1 thing? I have the oe limiter in my 95 set to 10000 lol
 

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