Update: I put 700ish miles on the car and took it back to the dealer this morning. They pulled the dip stick and it was bone dry. Burned around 2 or 3 quarts I guess... needless to say, I’m getting a new motor next week.
Seems like some updates have helped this. Maybe the next version of the 5.2 block shared with 350/500 has helped? Maybe a ring, hone or piston update? Either way it seems most recent builds less effected. Glad Ford is taking care of you
-J
Is this problem for all years? I am about to take delivery of an ‘18 R...not sure if the problem has been resolved on the newer gt350’s.
Scott
I have a 18R that I daily with no consumption issues @6,000. I think proper break helps
How did you break yours in? Mine will have @100 miles on it when it arrives...
How did you break yours in? Mine will have @100 miles on it when it arrives...
Hit 8250 at 101 miles and did not hold extended rpms until after 1000 miles. Sees the redline everytime it goes out. 1600 miles and first track day next week with zero oil used.
How did you break yours in? Mine will have @100 miles on it when it arrives...
I broke my R in the same way as 07 Black Beauty. Followed the recommended procedure as best I could. There are varying opinions in it. WVTrakPak did it differently. WVTrakPak has zero oil usage. 2300 miles on mine doing it my way and zero oil usage. One thing is for sure tho. I would sift thru the BS of those that actually have a Voodoo motor and those that don't but offer up there "expertise" like they know a shit or two about it. At the end of the day, it's your car. Live with the decision how ever it turns out.
Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.
You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.
You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.
This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.
Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.
You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.
You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.
I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.
This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.
I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.
But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.
Guys, let's be honest. There's enough varying data out there to suggest that it's still random and/or unidentifiable.
You should break in your engine properly, regardless of the oil consumption issue, just because it helps to prevent other issues. But the reality is, you could break the motor in properly and still burn oil. You could break the motor in properly and it burn oil soon after or long after.
You could drive it off the lot like you stole it and it not burn oil, or burn oil right away.
I happen to think the issue has more to do with cold start up and not letting the motor warm to operating temperature.
This is one of the FEW vehicles I've ever owned where I don't just jump in and go. I let it warm past idle drop (120F coolant temps) and even then, I limp it around until it's all the way up to steady state before I flog it. I'm convinced that when the aluminum pistons are cold, they shrink and the rings don't seat properly (or as well as they would otherwise) and that's one (of possibly many) issues surrounding oil burning.
I also think windage through the PCV valve is another. Extending high rpm suspends the oil and we see it in our catch cans.
But as I've pointed out numerous times, the oil isn't leaking (otherwise SOMEONE would observe leaks, oil in the back of the car, etc) and it isn't going into the coolant (otherwise tons of people would have reported it.). It's either going through the PCV valve and burned through the motor and out the exhaust, OR it's blowing by the rings and out the exhaust OR it's the valve seats and guides and being burned off. But it's definitely being burned and sent through the exhaust. It might be a combination of suspended windage, ring blow by or valve seat/guides leaking.
Agree!
Rings are steel and operate completely independent of the piston as it pertains to heating/cooling and expansion.
Agreed, but if the piston isn't fully swollen in the cylinder, wouldn't that effect the geometry of the ring against the cylinder wall if it slaps? If one part of the piston skirt is slapping that means the angle of the piston is not perfectly parallel to the bore. That means one side of the head is low and one side is high of perpendicular. I'm imagining even small changes in not having the piston perfectly aligned in the bore is going to create challenges for the rings to seat properly (or as it's worn to mate under steady state conditions).
I'm by no means convinced I'm right here, I'm just throwing out ideas. I wouldn't think a piston that's old and worn (or a bore that's hogged out) is gonna burn oil regardless of how new the rings are just because the geometry of the ring is changing constantly.