Another PATS problem, help?

[Mr.Venom]

Hello everyone,

So a quick rundown of what happened. I was driving through a parking lot to visit someone and the car cut off. I coast into a spot, turn the ignition all the way off and try to start the car, turns over but doesn't start, theft light blinking and odometer showing dashes. Ok cool, so I know its PATS related.

I get the car towed home, I talk to my tuner, he gives me an updated file for my handheld to disable the PATS. Ok cool, this should be over fairly quickly. I go home and plug in my SCT handheld, I get the error 1019 Unlock ECM Failed and that the tune did not write. I ask my tuner for some tips and he says to check the fuse pertaining to the data port. I check that fuse and all other ECM/PCM related fuses and they are all fine.

I'm honestly lost, I've been searching PATS and theft light threads for hours now and nothing seems to be a fix.

Related info, the battery in my cobra before the PATS issue was on in its last leg, battery is brand new so a voltage trip of the theft system isn't an issue anymore.

Please let me know what you guys think, getting frustrated. :bored:

 

[Blueline]

Try checking the connections at the battery and alternator. I know you said the batt is new, but if the alt. is shortening out it may cause your issues. GL electrical problems are the worst.

 

[Mr.Venom]

Try checking the connections at the battery and alternator. I know you said the batt is new, but if the alt. is shortening out it may cause your issues. GL electrical problems are the worst.

They are the worst man... Wiring isn't my best subject. What would I be looking for referencing to, to make sure its seeing what it needs?

 

[Blueline]

I would check all the grounds and terminals around the battery, alternator plugs and chassis grounds. If your alternator shorted you may have not noticed the batt light flashing for a sec and your batt may be drained. Try charging the battery or checking its volts and see what they read.

 

[bert9930]

Pats won't cause a car to shut down if it running.

http://www.bsecorp.com/files/techtips/FORD PATS.pdf

page 15

 

[masterjr33]

most likely you need to tow it to a dealership. and have them unplug the ECM relay. go through the Asbuilt data on the IDS to flash it back to stock.

of have someone else with a cobra they dont drive let you flash on there comp with the no pats tune. and then swap that puter into yours and drive it to the dealer to do the as built thing also.

 

[03SonicVert]

Check out my first posted response here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...91738-theft-light-flashing-odometer-help.html

It is not the PATS system causing your concern but the fact that the PCM is off line. Do not try and flash your PCM as it is not powered up. The stall was due to the PCM being taken off line. Dashes in the cluster indicate the cluster is unable to communicate with the PCM.

Have you done any other work recently? There is a connector between the battery and strut tower that if left unplugged or loose will cause this.

Causes:
-PCM power loss. There are three power wires/pins. 2 key on and 1 constant. Make sure you have them all. Use a headlight bulb or similar to load test the power. Don't use a LED test light. You can rub your feet on the carpet and light a LED test light.
-Ground loss. Check the EVTM as there are multiple ground pins/feeds.

Other uncommon causes
-Shorted network. You don't have any other module concerns? ABS module are is free of debris or damage? You can check the 914/915 pins at the DLC for being shorted together or to ground.

-V-ref short to ground. This is the 5 volts that feeds the TP, DPFE and FTP sensors. If the circuit is shorted to ground the PCM gets dragged down.

-Short to power on the Signal Return circuit will fry the PCM.

Check around the battery for ground eyelet attachment to the body, battery terminals, connectors between the battery and strut tower and then tell us if you have done any other work on stereo system in the trunk, fuel system, tune up under the hood, accident damage, etc.

If the battery is all you changed then start there. Check all fuses to the PCM.

Do you have an EVTM?

You can also lay under the front driver side of the car and unplug the alternator if you think it caused you battery to die.

Don't mess with the tune. The PATS is the effect not the cause.

SV

 

[Mr.Venom]

Check out my first posted response here:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...91738-theft-light-flashing-odometer-help.html

It is not the PATS system causing your concern but the fact that the PCM is off line. Do not try and flash your PCM as it is not powered up. The stall was due to the PCM being taken off line. Dashes in the cluster indicate the cluster is unable to communicate with the PCM.

Have you done any other work recently? There is a connector between the battery and strut tower that if left unplugged or loose will cause this.

Causes:
-PCM power loss. There are three power wires/pins. 2 key on and 1 constant. Make sure you have them all. Use a headlight bulb or similar to load test the power. Don't use a LED test light. You can rub your feet on the carpet and light a LED test light.
-Ground loss. Check the EVTM as there are multiple ground pins/feeds.

Other uncommon causes
-Shorted network. You don't have any other module concerns? ABS module are is free of debris or damage? You can check the 914/915 pins at the DLC for being shorted together or to ground.

-V-ref short to ground. This is the 5 volts that feeds the TP, DPFE and FTP sensors. If the circuit is shorted to ground the PCM gets dragged down.

-Short to power on the Signal Return circuit will fry the PCM.

Check around the battery for ground eyelet attachment to the body, battery terminals, connectors between the battery and strut tower and then tell us if you have done any other work on stereo system in the trunk, fuel system, tune up under the hood, accident damage, etc.

If the battery is all you changed then start there. Check all fuses to the PCM.

Do you have an EVTM?

You can also lay under the front driver side of the car and unplug the alternator if you think it caused you battery to die.

Don't mess with the tune. The PATS is the effect not the cause.

SV

SV,

The newest addition I installed was the N2MB WOT Box but have driven it for weeks without any issue. So I don't think it lies there...I don't think. I wired it correctly and had no issues with its operation minus what had just happened with the car. If the WOT Box grounded itself and died for example, could it possibly short the PCM? It is wired into two wires coming off the PCM, CPS and TPS I do believe.

The connector you mention by the battery and the driver side strut tower i did indeed check and is connected securely so that is ruled out as well.

What pins/wires do I check for power? Whats the procedure there? Also what is EVTM?

 

[Mystic03]

did you look at the ground connector under the battery? that caused my ecm not to connect to my SCT

 

[Mr.Venom]

did you look at the ground connector under the battery? that caused my ecm not to connect to my SCT

Thanks for the tip, I can check that and rule it out.

 

[03SonicVert]

EVTM is electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual. It's fords publication showing wires, connectors, circuits, etc. There is a free download here which helps tremendously to identify the circuits and where to test for power and ground.

 

[Mr.Venom]

EVTM is electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual. It's fords publication showing wires, connectors, circuits, etc. There is a free download here which helps tremendously to identify the circuits and where to test for power and ground.

Thanks...so if I do not get power at these 3 pins/wires you mentioned, am I to assume the PCM is dead.

 

[03SonicVert]

Thanks...so if I do not get power at these 3 pins/wires you mentioned, am I to assume the PCM is dead.

If you don't have power at 72, 97 and 55(off the top of my head, check the EVTM) in any combination, 72 & 97 with the key on and 55 at all times then you have to find the reason there is no power. If you have a good/clean power on those pins then you have to verify the grounds to the PCM are strong too. From there check for short to ground on vref, believe its 91.

It's odd that the PCM would fry and I would suspect the wiring/component feed (relays, junction boxes, etc) for power and connections for clean ground.

They're fun to diag in person but kind of hard to convey the process over the net. You need to load test and or volt drop the powers and grounds basically. Then check for continuity to ground or each other on the network at the DLC, circuits 914/915, and check for continuity to ground on the vref circuit.

SV