Trying to figure out what route I am going with this car. Anyone have one? :beer:
Anyone have experience with the 323 boss block?
- Thread starter Bite Me
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It's not actually a 323 block. If you use your stock crank and stock length rods it's a 302. You have to add a stroker kit to make a 323. I was running a resleeved Teksid, but the block cracked. I think it was due to poor machining when the block was resleeved years ago. I went with the iron this time mostly because of cost. But I also didn't want to have to worry about block issues anymore.
This was how I spent my Sunday.
This was how I spent my Sunday.
The boss 50 block is a great piece, the only drawback is that it weighs 80lbs more than an aluminum block. For another $300 you can get your aluminum block sleeved to a 3.7" bore.
So is it The cost of the boss block+300, Really stupid question I know. I've just been trying to pin down the cost of BB sleeving, without actually calling a company. I am not ready to start doing it So I don't want to waste a companies time.
Thanks
Thanks
Sorry slo98, I meant to say the livernois 323.
I just cant decide if its worth the extra money for the 323 for what I am going to do.
I am also curious what our stock heads can handle. They quoted me stage 3 heads, but I dont really care to spend the 4k for heads when I am going to be running an f1.
I just cant decide if its worth the extra money for the 323 for what I am going to do.
I am also curious what our stock heads can handle. They quoted me stage 3 heads, but I dont really care to spend the 4k for heads when I am going to be running an f1.
That probably depends on where you're at. It was going to run me $1500-$1600 to have my stock block resleeved. I didn't want to deal with the issues again.
There's no replacement for displacement. That's what I believe at least. The torque down low is a nice addition. If you have the money get some ported heads. It'll help even with the F1.
Slo984now: Who did the machining on the teksid, and how long ago was it done? (I'm wondering if they've gotten better with time). You can pm me if you'd rather keep it private.
Thanks
edit: How much boost/rpm were you pushing the motor that cracked the block?
Thanks
edit: How much boost/rpm were you pushing the motor that cracked the block?
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I really have no clue. I bought it third hand from someone that bought it from Modular Power House. I have a friend that crews on an alky funny car and rebuilds the motors. He was looking it over and said the cracks look more like bad machining then anything else. The most boost I ever saw was 10 or 11psi and it never made it above 6K. I was dealing with fuel issues and then had a string of bad luck.
Slo984now: What is the max rpm that you would run your stroker to on a fairly regular basis. I was thinking of running up to 7500 or thereabouts.
To op: If you don't want these questions clogging up your thread just let me know and I'll take it to pm. I figure this might help you aswell.
To op: If you don't want these questions clogging up your thread just let me know and I'll take it to pm. I figure this might help you aswell.
I am confused, how is using stock and stock gonna get more cubes,
duh, pistons are bigger, I am still confused, how is there room for bigger pistons,., I may still be confused
The boss block from FRPP is 5.0L when you use our stock crank and rods. It is the equivalent of sleeving our blocks and making a big bore.
When doing either that block( boss5.0) or a sleeved Alum. Block and using a stroker rotating assm. Then it'll be 323-324ci
When doing either that block( boss5.0) or a sleeved Alum. Block and using a stroker rotating assm. Then it'll be 323-324ci
if its just using bigger pistons, why not just bore the crap out of any strong block? :shrug:
Because the amount of overbore will weaken the stock sleeves. I've been told that the 03/04 blocks can handle the 3.7" bore.
What are your goals?
Strokers can handle 8k easily and so can big bore/strokers.
Sleeved (dry sleeves) aluminum blocks are very reliable, wet sleeve can cause some problems but they (wer sleeves) aren't needed for n/a or low boost engines.
Strokers can handle 8k easily and so can big bore/strokers.
Sleeved (dry sleeves) aluminum blocks are very reliable, wet sleeve can cause some problems but they (wer sleeves) aren't needed for n/a or low boost engines.
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but I assume thats not a good idea to just bore the hell out of a block :shrug: vs just turn up the boost/octane :-D
It probably depends on how much boost you want to run with an overbored block. I went with more cubes because I won't need as much boost to make my power goal.
a .030" or even a .040" overbore is safe for boost.
Goals are to get this car into the high 9's and run 10's regularly. 9 second pass just for the fun of it. Power wise, dont really care cause its just a number anyways.
I am guessing to get low 10's high 9's need around 600-700rwhp through an auto but not positive on what will be needed.
I am guessing to get low 10's high 9's need around 600-700rwhp through an auto but not positive on what will be needed.
coolguy10786 has a big bore on the SN95 board. I don't remember his exact combo but it was a n/a build. Send him a pm he is always good to reply.
Exactly. I would rather make 700rwhp with 20lbs of boost than 700rwhp with 25lbs of boost. The added cubes gives you more lowend power, pre boost power and more power per pound of boost. You could just run more boost with the smaller cubed engine and make the same power with more boost but then consider the possiblity of over spinning the blower, generating more heat thus killing timing, having to run higher octane fuel more often etc.
Sniperdog, the Boss block is a big bore block. Using a stock stroke 4.6 crank and stock length rods in the Boss block gives you 5.0L. Running a stroker crank(3.75) in the Boss block gives you 5.3L. If you were to run the stroker crank(3.75) in a stock 4.6 block it would give you 5.0L.
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