Cooling mods - Custom Air dam questions, Air ducting, T-Stat.

[SVTDice]

So in the pursuit of of every lasting coolness :coolman: and the upcoming summer I decided it would be finally a good idea to finally make an air dam that has been missing since I bought the car. I'm basing my info off of Suaveflooder's and Jimmy's information on the forums.

But here's the catch, I don't have the stock air dam at all so I had to create my own mounting bracket. So I had to create a custom one.

Here's my two questions. One, Should it have the lip on the air dam or should I cut it off? I noticed there is a lip on the stock air dam. I'm wondering if its useful at all. Two, Would it be better if the air dam was DEAD straight or have a slight angle to it? Right now due to the 45 degree aluminum piece I've used for the mounting bracket it has a slight angle to it when I mount it up to the frame.

The pictures are not the best, Took them with my Phone. I'll be taking more in the afternoon when I do my ducting and T-Stat. If anybody has any picture requests, Feel free to ask.

Air dam Pictures

I bet somebody can guess whats in this box..Thanks to Lethal for getting it to my door literally in two days. :rockon:

Anyways, I'll be posting up alot more pictures if anybody wants to see just let me know. Keep cool guys.

 

[SlowSVT]

It's not exactly clear but I'm assuming you are mounting this under the bumper support.

Aluminum is not a good choice for an air dam. Bottom it out once and it will bend which will get pretty ratty after doing that a few times.

Semi rigid plastic sheet would be a better choice. I use Kydex for an application like that. It's fexible enough where it will take blows while maintaining it's shape and is abrasion resistant. You can bend it in a box break or sheet metal bender and it will hold the shape and increases stiffens it at the same time.

Best to position the dam completely verticle. Angle it forward can expose it to damage when it bottoms out on something by not allowing it to flex out of the way forcing it into the rad support. Angling it backwards will funnel more of the air under the rad and not up into it. Putting a little curviture will help stiffen it. Better yet if your "creative", fashion a spring loaded bracket allowing it to fold out of the way then return to verticle.

 

[SVTDice]

It's not exactly clear but I'm assuming you are mounting this under the bumper support.

Aluminum is not a good choice for an air dam. Bottom it out once and it will bend which will get pretty ratty after doing that a few times.

Semi rigid plastic sheet would be a better choice. I use Kydex for an application like that. It's fexible enough where it will take blows while maintaining it's shape and is abrasion resistant. You can bend it in a box break or sheet metal bender and it will hold the shape and increases stiffens it at the same time.

Best to position the dam completely verticle. Angle it forward can expose it to damage when it bottoms out on something by not allowing it to flex out of the way forcing it into the rad support. Angling it backwards will funnel more of the air under the rad and not up into it. Putting a little curviture will help stiffen it. Better yet if your "creative", fashion a spring loaded bracket allowing it to fold out of the way then return to verticle.

I'm mounting this exactly where the stock air dam originally is located. Now for the aluminum that part is NOT going to be my air dam. The semi-rigid plastic part will be. I'm only using the aluminum to be the mounting bracket. The black plastic will be the part that's going to act as the air dam.

I'll straighten it out. By the way if I remember right the air dam helps PULL air through, not push it through, Correct me if I'm wrong. Now if the dam gets to beat up, I don't mind because I have another 25 feet of the plastic to create another one.

Another question is. Would it be better to keep the edges straight or around them off slightly to reduce drag? Any input would be appreciated.

 

[SlowSVT]

The air dam helps pull and push the air thru the rad by creating a high pressure area in front and a low pressure area behind it which forces air thru it.

Don't worry about rounding off both ends of the dam to reduce drag. There is soo much diry turbulant air under the car it won't make much difference.

 

[SVTDice]

The air dam helps pull and push the air thru the rad by creating a high pressure area in front and a low pressure area behind it which forces air thru it.

Don't worry about rounding off both ends of the dam to reduce drag. There is soo much diry turbulant air under the car it won't make much difference.

So after doing a full coolant flush plus the new T-Stat + Air dam I am extremely happy with the results. :banana: I did not manage to use the air ducting mod like I wished too. Due to the fact that my HE lines were in the way.

So the results are.....My coolant temp's did NOT go over 176. In similar weather it would easily go over 190. Last week coolant temp's went up to 220. While crusing the temp's normally hovered between 172 and 174.

Now onto the air dam. Its keeping my intake temp's at bay by helping remove more heat from the engine bay. My IAT1 temp's did not go over 91. Nor did my IAT2's. It is a cooler night but overall I am very happy. :rockon:

I'm going to be doing ALOT more testing, I really need to get on it and do a couple high speed pulls to see how it performs. But overall I'm glad.

Major thanks to Reische performance for making a fantastic thermostat.

If anybody has anymore questions, feel free to PM me.

 

[702lightning]

Can you post pics of it mounted if possible.

 

[SVT_Troy]

awesome man, I still have to box everything in on mine

 

[SVTDice]

Can you post pics of it mounted if possible.

When I throw it up back in the air. I'll take some pictures for you.

awesome man, I still have to box everything in on mine

Yeah, You may want to go with a larger air dam like I did. I know you're really into cooling mods. I hear the larger they get, the more benefit you get. You can check out Suaveflooder's thread below about the larger air dam. I think its worth it and I noticed no increase in drag.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...k-suaveflooders-diamond-rough-journal-12.html

 

[SlowSVT]

So after doing a full coolant flush plus the new T-Stat + Air dam I am extremely happy with the results. :banana: I did not manage to use the air ducting mod like I wished too. Due to the fact that my HE lines were in the way.

So the results are.....My coolant temp's did NOT go over 176. In similar weather it would easily go over 190. Last week coolant temp's went up to 220. While crusing the temp's normally hovered between 172 and 174.

Now onto the air dam. Its keeping my intake temp's at bay by helping remove more heat from the engine bay. My IAT1 temp's did not go over 91. Nor did my IAT2's. It is a cooler night but overall I am very happy. :rockon:

I'm going to be doing ALOT more testing, I really need to get on it and do a couple high speed pulls to see how it performs. But overall I'm glad.

Major thanks to Reische performance for making a fantastic thermostat.

If anybody has anymore questions, feel free to PM me.

So let me see if I got this one straight :dw:

You went from asking a very basic question regarding an air dam configuration to publishing a what you believe to be a comprehensive test report on the results of a full system cooling mods all in the same day? :smmon:

Then you attribute that to a thermostat :lol1:

good grief :nonono:

 

[racebronco2]

The air dam helps pull and push the air thru the rad by creating a high pressure area in front and a low pressure area behind it which forces air thru it.

Don't worry about rounding off both ends of the dam to reduce drag. There is soo much diry turbulant air under the car it won't make much difference.

Just to point out one fact, the air dam does not push air thru the radiator. It's been discussed many times over the years.

 

[SVTDice]

So let me see if I got this one straight :dw:

You went from asking a very basic question regarding an air dam configuration to publishing a what you believe to be a comprehensive test report on the results of a full system cooling mods all in the same day? :smmon:

Then you attribute that to a thermostat :lol1:

good grief :nonono:

I do have to do more testing, However reporting lower IAT1 temp's = contributing factor of the Air dam. Lower IAT2's also improved due to the air dam. From what I've learned is lower IAT1 = Lower IAT2's. Why do you think some people choose to go with a CAI vs RAI.

I installed the T-Stat. Was happy with the results,
Never installed the ducting due to HE Lines in the way
Air dam installed and modified and was happy with the results as well. Sorry if my post is confusing?

I asked the question and took the advice and it turned out great. I appreciate the advice. That's all I needed help on. But if I'm going to be doing the mod, I post up the results of the mod, Isnt that the logical thing to do? I know you're probably used to people asking a question and bailing without results. I like to let people know if its a worthwhile adventure or not. I know its not one of my best threads but I've had a few people request this so I'm happy to help.

I'm sorry if I offended you? I'm sorry for giving credit to one of the vendors to the forum and not adding myself into the credits...I guess? I reported on the air dam, and the thermostat. I guess I'm not seeing the issue here.

 

[suaveflooder]

Hey Troy, you are on the right track! I would try and use one piece if at all possible and find a way to add a little bracket in the middle for support. The sides with some holes and push pins in it hold REALLY well.

Ideally you want to make it longer than necessary and let your regular driving (dips and such) "sand" down what you don't want. I didn't because I had a daily driver, so I took a middle ground between looks and function. Ideally you want it longer than what I had it.

For those who don't want to search through my thread, here are some pics

 

[suaveflooder]

Just to point out one fact, the air dam does not push air thru the radiator. It's been discussed many times over the years.

I'll add to this even though its been talked about. Basically you are looking to create a high pressure area under the car. The benefit to this that air looks through the easiest way "through" the car. The bumper is a high pressure spot as well as well as the high pressure spot under the car the air dam creates. At this point with a high pressure areas and a boxed in radiator, the low pressure spot is the radiator. With a boxed in radiator the air is forced through the low pressure spot spot which now on the front end of the car is the radiator, allowing for more efficient cooling. There is a little more to it, but that's basically what is happening.

Without the dam and the boxed in radiator, the air escapes through any place it can, including under the car and in the body, because at this point the H/E and radiator is the high pressure area.

 

[quick88lx]

Hey Troy, you are on the right track! I would try and use one piece if at all possible and find a way to add a little bracket in the middle for support. The sides with some holes and push pins in it hold REALLY well.

Ideally you want to make it longer than necessary and let your regular driving (dips and such) "sand" down what you don't want. I didn't because I had a daily driver, so I took a middle ground between looks and function. Ideally you want it longer than what I had it.

For those who don't want to search through my thread, here are some pics

where did you get the plastic material?

 

[suaveflooder]

where did you get the plastic material?

Just garden lining material from home depot. It was pretty cheap and can be found in the garden section. Comes in a big roll. I cut a couple inches off it.

then let it sit in the sun a bit to soften so I could get it to sit correctly.

 

[quick88lx]

sweet thanks now i just gotta find plastic for boxing in the radiator

 

[suaveflooder]

sweet thanks now i just gotta find plastic for boxing in the radiator

Sides are easy. Basically boxed in already. I've seen people just duct tape the holes. The bottom: order some ABS (its been awhile so I think that's it) It can be heated and molded around the H/E. I used some aluminum sheets and they worked, but I wouldn't go that rout again, personally.

 

[SVT_Troy]

Thanks a lot, I've only looked through 8 pages of it so far before I went to sleep last night. Did you make a tread where you posted pics of you boxing in the radiator? What material did you use to do it? Aluminum?

 

[SlowSVT]

I do have to do more testing, However reporting lower IAT1 temp's = contributing factor of the Air dam. Lower IAT2's also improved due to the air dam. From what I've learned is lower IAT1 = Lower IAT2's. Why do you think some people choose to go with a CAI vs RAI.

I installed the T-Stat. Was happy with the results,
Never installed the ducting due to HE Lines in the way
Air dam installed and modified and was happy with the results as well. Sorry if my post is confusing?

I asked the question and took the advice and it turned out great. I appreciate the advice. That's all I needed help on. But if I'm going to be doing the mod, I post up the results of the mod, Isnt that the logical thing to do? I know you're probably used to people asking a question and bailing without results. I like to let people know if its a worthwhile adventure or not. I know its not one of my best threads but I've had a few people request this so I'm happy to help.

I'm sorry if I offended you? I'm sorry for giving credit to one of the vendors to the forum and not adding myself into the credits...I guess? I reported on the air dam, and the thermostat. I guess I'm not seeing the issue here.

You made a wise choice with regard to cooling mods. What rubbed me the wrong way was you were a lettle vague on providing info but I aswered your question than you report on the results of a couple of other cooling mods without any details on exactly what you did (how bout some pics?). This happens quite a bit and I guess I got a bit frustrated and vented when I should have left it alone. I owe you a beer :beer:

Not sure if your looking to improve your cooling system further. Sealing up the perimeter of the HE and opening up the hood extracter (perhaps by removing the plastic bezel completely) is a good place to look if you havent already done so.

Aircraft Spruce sells a rubber channel strip p/n 05-01300 that will seal the gap perfectly between the rad and the cooling fan making it work more effectively. You just need to cut a few clearnce slits in it and it fits like OEM!

U CHANNEL from Aircraft Spruce

Heat usually plays a role when a high output engine goes POOF! Get rid of it at all cost.

 

[SVT_Troy]

You made a wise choice with regard to cooling mods. What rubbed me the wrong way was you were a lettle vague on providing info but I aswered your question than you report on the results of a couple of other cooling mods without any details on exactly what you did (how bout some pics?). This happens quite a bit and I guess I got a bit frustrated and vented when I should have left it alone. I owe you a beer :beer:

Not sure if your looking to improve your cooling system further. Sealing up the perimeter of the HE and opening up the hood extracter (perhaps by removing the plastic bezel completely) is a good place to look if you havent already done so.

Aircraft Spruce sells a rubber channel strip p/n 05-01300 that will seal the gap perfectly between the rad and the cooling fan making it work more effectively. You just need to cut a few clearnce slits in it and it fits like OEM!

U CHANNEL from Aircraft Spruce

Heat usually plays a role when a high output engine goes POOF! Get rid of it at all cost.

This! Many people here do this and its not fair for people actually doing the research down the line and have questions. When folks post new threads about old topics, people want to bash them and I believe sometimes this is the reason why.

Some folks are not sheep and want an explanation so they can rationalize it themselves.


side note: awesome link to the rubber strip. Without me taking measurements do you happen to remember how much we actually need as far as length? I want to order that right now!

Ahh nevermind, it's cheap, I just bought 10'