Fays2 Watts link

[enormous]

I had something similar...it was the FRPP rear sway bar hitting the Fays2 frame. So I removed the sway bar.

Hmmm, my FRPP rear bar has plenty of clearence and does not hit the Fay's frame.

 

[Catmonkey]

The links are very horizontal, but I think that the drivers is about 1/4 shorter than the passenger.

I thought they needed to be the same length. I'm not sure that's your issue, but I'd revisit the instructions.

 

[NuclearPower]

So the FRPP rear bar will not work with the Fays2?

I dont seem to be having any issue with the PP rear bar interfering with the Fays2. No marks on the Fays2 or the rear bar that they are contacting...

Are your rear bumpstops hitting?

I first thought this too, but how would I find out for sure?:shrug:Any ideas how to check this?

I thought they needed to be the same length. I'm not sure that's your issue, but I'd revisit the instructions.

Yes, they are supposed to be the same length...It was late I was tired, I did the BMR springs, UCA, mounts and Watts all on the same day. I plan on getting back under the car this weekend to make them the same length. I also need to go buy a couple of large wrenchs to make everything easier. I drove it 100 miles today to work and back on farm roads and did not have any issues. Did not hear any banging, binding, etc at all. I think that it is more than likely the passenger axle mount bolts hitting the passenger upper area around the spring housing. Does anybody know why I couldnt switch the axle mounts? The passengers has the hole for axle vent, but on the 2012 I do not have this. There is nothing on the passenger side axle tube....

 

[breoland]

I have the sway bar relocates so I can mount my bogarts up to it...If i get the watts link would I still be able to mount my bogarts up? they are 15in rears

 

[Bulldogger]

Haven't been on the forum much but as far as the thump check the bolt on the drivers side coming off the axle tube that connect to Z link. It is probably hitting into the exhaust that raps over the axle, when you go over bumps

 

[NuclearPower]

Haven't been on the forum much but as far as the thump check the bolt on the drivers side coming off the axle tube that connect to Z link. It is probably hitting into the exhaust that raps over the axle, when you go over bumps

I'll check, thanks...:beer:

 

[NuclearPower]

Not sure how much this affects things, but i just took a quick measurement of the drive line relative to the body and I am pushed to the drivers side about 1/2". I need to pull the drive line to the passenger side by about 1/4" to even it back to center.

Is it worth doing this for a 1/4"????:shrug::??:

 

[enormous]

I think a 1/4" off would drive me nuts :rolling:. But thats just me.

 

[NuclearPower]

Have OCD do we (same here - most of the time)...I think that I am probably going to try to center it when I verify the links are equal lengths...I bought nice 1 1/8 and 1 1/4 wrenchs at the pawn shop to make it easier. Just need to get the neighbor to come help me to make it faster...:beer:

 

[NuclearPower]

Got back under car on Friday and adjusted the links to the same length and did notice 2 spots that were hitting. One was the drivers side bar tot he over the axle muffler pipe, nothing serious though just some light scratches. The major interference was on the passenger side between the axle clamp bolts of the Fays2 and the upper spring mount area. There was a small chunck of metal that had been flattened, about the size of a pea at most. I think this is where my thump noise was coming from.

In any case, I also adjusted the rear to within 1/8" of center...just couldn't get that last 1/8":shrug: Took it out for a quick spin and did not hear any banging. Have not had it up to speed though...I can't believe how much more settled the rear of the car is with this thing. I only wish I had the money for the Griggs setup. I can only imagine how much more improved that would be...:dancenana:

 

[Zeroescence]

Got back under car on Friday and adjusted the links to the same length and did notice 2 spots that were hitting. One was the drivers side bar tot he over the axle muffler pipe, nothing serious though just some light scratches. The major interference was on the passenger side between the axle clamp bolts of the Fays2 and the upper spring mount area. There was a small chunck of metal that had been flattened, about the size of a pea at most. I think this is where my thump noise was coming from.

In any case, I also adjusted the rear to within 1/8" of center...just couldn't get that last 1/8":shrug: Took it out for a quick spin and did not hear any banging. Have not had it up to speed though...I can't believe how much more settled the rear of the car is with this thing. I only wish I had the money for the Griggs setup. I can only imagine how much more improved that would be...:dancenana:

I just ordered my Shelby fays2 watts link and Steeda lowering springs. I'm both excited and nervous to do the install. Did you do the watts link install on the ground or on a drive on lift? Any advise would be much appriciated. Thanks.

 

[enormous]

I put all 4 corners on jacks stands in the garage then slid my ramps under the rear tires and removed the rear jackstands. The rear suspension has to be loaded to install the Fays. I had no difficulty on my back with this install.
Correct sockets, torque wrench and angle finder will be required.
I had to scratch my head at the Fays instructions a couple times resulting to a quick call to the always helpfull Jim Fays.

The Rear spring swap is very easy too.
-Put the rear frame on jackstands
-Remove tires, remove 10ml nut for brake line
-Remove lower shock bolts
-Support axle with jack and lower till you can remove suspension spring
-Install new springs and reverse procedure

 

[Zeroescence]

I put all 4 corners on jacks stands in the garage then slid my ramps under the rear tires and removed the rear jackstands. The rear suspension has to be loaded to install the Fays. I had no difficulty on my back with this install.
Correct sockets, torque wrench and angle finder will be required.
I had to scratch my head at the Fays instructions a couple times resulting to a quick call to the always helpfull Jim Fays.

The Rear spring swap is very easy too.
-Put the rear frame on jackstands
-Remove tires, remove 10ml nut for brake line
-Remove lower shock bolts
-Support axle with jack and lower till you can remove suspension spring
-Install new springs and reverse procedure

Thanks for the info. Do you think I should lower the car before or after the watts link?

 

[enormous]

Install springs first before removing panhard bar. You can locate axle center like a adjustable pandard bar buy losening the axle tube mounts and pulling the axle aside with wratchet straps.

I think I read the Fays instuctions 20 times before starting this project be confident to do it . I did find it rewarding and reasonably straight forward to complete the project in about 3.5 hours taking my time.

 

[Blown_By_You]

Subbing. I want one

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[Zeroescence]

Install springs first before removing panhard bar. You can locate axle center like a adjustable pandard bar buy losening the axle tube mounts and pulling the axle aside with wratchet straps.

I think I read the Fays instuctions 20 times before starting this project be confident to do it . I did find it rewarding and reasonably straight forward to complete the project in about 3.5 hours taking my time.

I'm new to SRA cars and I'm not sure what the axle tube mounts are, I guess once I get under the car this will all come together. Thank you all for the info so far.

 

[enormous]

I'm new to SRA cars and I'm not sure what the axle tube mounts are, I guess once I get under the car this will all come together. Thank you all for the info so far.

The Fays mounts to the axle tube by two axle mounts that look like clamps and have four bolts each.

No worries, you will see all this when the Fays and instructions arrive.

 

[NuclearPower]

I did the front springs first, then lowered car, then raised the rear with homemade drive on ramps. Then used jack and jacks as stated above. I also read the Fays2 instructions like 20 times. It really is easy once you step back and go thats what I am doing...

If you have a 2010 and up though...one big difference is that the passenger side axle tube does not have a breather (at least not on my 2012 SVTPP), and the drivers side has a high spot that limits the tube mount from moving closer to the rear diff. I also did the UCA and UCA mount ant the same time and it took me about 4 hours to do everything. If you do fron t springs make sur eto get it realigned once you are done.

Almost forgot, I also have a finned diff cover (from factory) this WILL make install of the propeller bolt impossible after you install the Fays frame. Make sure that you install the bolt before you lift the frame into place. If you like I can try to snap a couple of pictures. The instructions show a nonfinned diff cover...

Have fun!

 

[Zeroescence]

I did the front springs first, then lowered car, then raised the rear with homemade drive on ramps. Then used jack and jacks as stated above. I also read the Fays2 instructions like 20 times. It really is easy once you step back and go thats what I am doing...

If you have a 2010 and up though...one big difference is that the passenger side axle tube does not have a breather (at least not on my 2012 SVTPP), and the drivers side has a high spot that limits the tube mount from moving closer to the rear diff. I also did the UCA and UCA mount ant the same time and it took me about 4 hours to do everything. If you do fron t springs make sur eto get it realigned once you are done.

Almost forgot, I also have a finned diff cover (from factory) this WILL make install of the propeller bolt impossible after you install the Fays frame. Make sure that you install the bolt before you lift the frame into place. If you like I can try to snap a couple of pictures. The instructions show a nonfinned diff cover...

Have fun!

Thanks. Any pics you can post would be great.

 

[Robert M]

Here is a Team Shelby thread that I started a while back. There are pictures..........Jim Fay himself even added some information.

Fays2 Watts Link - Anyone using this? - Team Shelby

Even pictures of the Fays with the FRPP G2 alloy girdle/cover.



R