Gauges - what do you watch.

[mu22stang]

It's irrelevant. If you don't watch the tach then you have to watch (or keep an eye out for) the shift light.

The shift light should receive its signal from the source RPM reading (not sure which sensor). My understanding is that this is much more accurate than the "lagging" analog tach.

 

[Bdubbs]

The shift light should receive its signal from the source RPM reading (not sure which sensor). My understanding is that this is much more accurate than the "lagging" analog tach.

I haven't used the aeroforce shift light. I use a raptor which is bright as hell. It's no joke when that thing lights up!

 

[earico]

So, an oil pressure gauge isn't important because by the time it reads low, the damage is done... but an a/f gauge is important because by the time it reads lean your engine hasn't exploded? Furthermore, most widebands are far from accurate.

Yes. Just because it's running lean and you already did it doesn't mean you keep your foot down to fry it.

Wideband sensors that are good ones have a short life span but they do work. I would get an EGT with the A/F. If you know what your EGTs are when your running good A/F it can be a back up indicator to a dieing Wideband O2 sensor.

Some Supra guys run EGT sensors in every header runner!!!

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

When you are drag racing, I agree with watching the tach or shift lights.
You are only going to be racing for 9-12 seconds anyway. You pretty much better have the car put together right before you go, as far as everything else goes.
Now that I am used to the Whipple I can shift by sound again, I glance at the tach occasionally to make sure my ears are still dialed in though, and I do not need to ring out every last RPM, unless I am trying to catch someone.

If you are doing open track or auto cross, or hard street driving the primary gauge to watch that you can actually do something about, besides just lift, is engine coolant temps.
Even drag racing you do not want to be hot lapping the car through if you are not staying ahead of the cool downs.

As many engines that have been hurt by a lean out detonation, I believe many more have been hurt by high temps induced detonation.

The whole air fuel thing and even oil pressure are worthy of watching for a variety of reasons, but most times something bad happens, it happens too fast to do anything about it.

In my application I am pretty busy except on straights. As soon as I am on a straight(if I am not giving out or taking a point by) I look to see what the temps are up to, they will climb continuously during the 20 minutes.

How high the temp gets determines how hard I go on the straights, so I absolutely HAVE TO WATCH THIS FUNCTION.
Towards the end of session, if it is getting hot, I will use the straights to keep the car cooler, I will shift up into 5th and just cruise at 100 instead of accelerate all the way up to 140. The car will cool quite a bit if I need to do that.

 

[JustaGT]

I am actually about to buy an Aeroforce guage and just use a Hilton overlay. But I plan on watching A/F Ratio and IAT2 temps on the Aeroforce. I am interested in the ECT also now, but really only want one gauge. (I'm not huge into a bunch of gauges, personally) But didn't realize that they monitored that as well.

 

[mu22stang]

I agree with Jimmy on many points. Using every bit of this car ability across four contact patches is where it's at.

Different application require different strengths and suffer different weaknesses. I see the a/f gauge/wideband as a reference tool. But it is imperative to trust your tuner and your tune, even when environmental conditions change. Monitoring anything on the edge is key.

These alternators - due to engine bay heat, over spinning, under driving, or otherwise - stink. Voltage reading is a must.

These IC pumps can wear, fast. Mine went south at around 42,000 miles. I actually watched it die on my Aeroforce over the course of about 6 months, occasionally crawling underneath to knock start it. I daily drive the car on a 3 mile commute, so no damage was done. IAT2 is a must.

These engines are not a walk in the park to burp and overheating this hotbox can take no time flat. ECT is a must.

Fuel pressure can be handy when/if the FRPS blows. A bad fuel filter may show up here, too.

 

[Chris _Scott]

A cool trick I think I would share..

Since I no longer have a computer or stock gauge cluster anymore on my car...I'm running autometer gauges for everything and rotate them so that where the 'ideal' range is facing the 12 o'clock position and then the redline on my tach rotated that way as well

That way without having to exactly look at all the different gauges..I can see in the corner of my eye when all the needles are pointing straight up, I'm in the clear.

I know you are referring to getting readings off the OBDII and whatnot..but just thought I would share this with anyone interested, just passing it along.

 

[N/Angel]

A cool trick I think I would share..

Since I no longer have a computer or stock gauge cluster anymore on my car...I'm running autometer gauges for everything and rotate them so that where the 'ideal' range is facing the 12 o'clock position and then the redline on my tach rotated that way as well

That way without having to exactly look at all the different gauges..I can see in the corner of my eye when all the needles are pointing straight up, I'm in the clear.

I know you are referring to getting readings off the OBDII and whatnot..but just thought I would share this with anyone interested, just passing it along.

any pics of your setup?

 

[mmustangsrus]

my car kinda looks like a airplane cockpit

i have dual aeroforce gauges in a bezel around my cluster & a S.O.S. two pod pillar with a raptor shift light & my WB & auto meter "lunar" fuel pressure gauge

i watch the A.F., fuel pressure ECT,IAT & IAT2, &
VOLTS ( dont want another alt. trashing my motor again )
i also cycle in head temp. & MAF VOLTS & i have alarms on alt volts , oil pressure & IAT2`s & ECT


also have a diff cooler & pump but no gauge on it yet & havent used it yet either (on the track or street )

 

[dlaude]

Got my aeroforce installed, but your jargon doesn't match the gauge's. IAT2 = charge temp? ECT = coolant? I believe 'voltage' is the same, and I know fuel pressure is. Thanks.

Here's what I monitor with my Dual Interceptors. These are all available without any additional sensors.

IAT2 - Ensures my IC pump is pumping. Also, on the track, this temperature is the first to climb above safe levels, so it has a warning light set to glow above 145 degrees F.

ECT - Ensures the engine is warm before I bang on it.

Voltage - Ensures another alternator hasn't bitten the dust.

Fuel Pressure

 

[Jomo1994z71]

Aftermarket coolant temp gauge saved my butt the other day...fan broke and it got up to 210F and I was alerted...popped the hood and the broken fan smelled terrible

 

[spitin venom]

ECT, IAT2, FPDC, Voltz. Sometimes I switch to MAF counts (really cold nights) and boost to check if my belt is slipping.