I'm with Busta. I would check the turbo first. The fact that the engine seems to be running fine beside the blow by (a lot of turbo cars experiece this) Sounds like what happend when my turbo went. I was pouring smoke.
I think the motor blew tonight.
- Thread starter dover
- Start date
Sorry to hear, hope it turns out to be simple :thumbsup:
That sucks. I'm betting the piston has a hole in it on the top side of the head. Hopefully the block is still OK.
damn
Definitely sounds like time for a rebuild... Sorry to hear man
Bailout requested
Uggh.
I hate when stuff like this happens. Make sure to label your injectors and keep track of which plugs are hurt. Have the injectors tested in the corresponding cylinders with hurt plugs to ensure the injector isn't at fault. Also ensure your fuel pumps are creating pressure as they should before you hurt anything else.
I hate when stuff like this happens. Make sure to label your injectors and keep track of which plugs are hurt. Have the injectors tested in the corresponding cylinders with hurt plugs to ensure the injector isn't at fault. Also ensure your fuel pumps are creating pressure as they should before you hurt anything else.
sorry to hear that bro, hope it all goes well.
the rebuild has been plained we are going to tear it apart in the garage starting next week, after we get it apart will determine how deep I go with it. Most likely some Diamond or Mahle Pistons with some rings. I plan to have the injectors tested and I will check the pumps to make sure they arent the case. Thanks for the help guys I will post pictures as soon as we get it apart.
can't say i am suprised i have never seen a hellion 76 car over 700 on pump gas with a stock motor. that tune had to be ragged edge to get there. Wonder if you got an off tank of gas. I did the same thing to mine back when i had a ported eaton.
It seems like a turbo cobra making good numbers on the stock engine is somewhat of a ticking time bomb anyways... I can't wait to see wtf went wrong in mine since I know my tune was safe as sh#t!
i would agree that big numbers on pump gas makes for a time bomb. i only run high octane fuel in mine.
I'll be tuning for meth on Friday.
I've run 16/17 pounds on pump with 15 degrees for a while. Then I wanted a little more power for the cars around here, and bumped up to 22 pounds with 110. According to my engine builder, leaded 110 and it's corrosiveness caused the demise of my engine... I ran straight 110 on the street for 4-5K miles, nonstop, every fill up.
I will be tuning this Friday for 93 pump + Meth (AlkyControl 3Bar MAP kit) for 22/23 pounds. Anything above that gets C16 (finally bought a drum).
Anytime the car sees C16, I'm going to drain the tank to prevent the internal corrosion that ate my last engine (I welded in a fitting and added a shut-off valve for easy draining), and let the car idle on 93 pump afterwards.
I've run 16/17 pounds on pump with 15 degrees for a while. Then I wanted a little more power for the cars around here, and bumped up to 22 pounds with 110. According to my engine builder, leaded 110 and it's corrosiveness caused the demise of my engine... I ran straight 110 on the street for 4-5K miles, nonstop, every fill up.
I will be tuning this Friday for 93 pump + Meth (AlkyControl 3Bar MAP kit) for 22/23 pounds. Anything above that gets C16 (finally bought a drum).
Anytime the car sees C16, I'm going to drain the tank to prevent the internal corrosion that ate my last engine (I welded in a fitting and added a shut-off valve for easy draining), and let the car idle on 93 pump afterwards.
I always thought unleaded fuel was better for your engine?? Isn't it unleaded that's more corrosive, and that would be why an engine made for leaded gasoline requires a fuel additive to run unleaded?
I thought the only negative things associated with running leaded in your car was O2 sensors, more frequent oil changes and incompatibilty with catalytic converters??
I thought the only negative things associated with running leaded in your car was O2 sensors, more frequent oil changes and incompatibilty with catalytic converters??
Yup. According to Al Papitto. He swears that after running race gas... and the fact that is has alcohol in it and little to no oils... that it leaves the metals in the combustion chamber (pistons/valves, etc.) unprotected after shut down. Take into account the heating/cooling cycle an engine undergoes, and the subsequent condensation and water formation, and you have a recipe for corrosion and an acidic environment that wreaks havoc on the metals.
Al recommends if you run race gas you get some sort of oil in the engine ASAP. He told me that draining the tank and idling the car on pump gas is one way. His personal modular is carbed, and after racing, he'll shoot WD40 directly into the car and let the car actually run/idle solely on WD40. Essentially, he douses the engine down with it. Said his shortblock is 3 years old and still looks like new.
He also mentioned Joe Cermin's engine (the TT GT car) was just like mine... full of corrosion, and he was running C16 primarily all the time.
Here are a few pictures of the pistons, and exhaust ports. I don't have a picture of it... but even the STAINLESS STEEL exhaust valves were pitted from corrosion and acid attack.
It is a difficult pill to swallow... as I know many people use race gas all the time, and I've yet to hear of this... but after it happened to me.... and after hearing Al SWEAR that this is way more common than most know, I'll take his word for it.
Last edited:
Users who are viewing this thread
