K-member worth it?

jtkz13

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So I am having a well-known and very reputable shop fix a leaky header gasket soon, and I am contemplating getting a k-member at the same time. Id be doing it for better access in the future and the weight loss is nice too.

With the extra labor and parts is basically a grand more than what just the gasket replacement is, but of course in the future it helps with installs.

Its a driver / cruiser that sees the track once or twice a year, and I'll have it a long time, since its only 16k miles right now.

Thoughts? I definitely wasnt budgeting for it, and it'd make things a little tight for a bit, but I like to do things once and do it right if at all possible.
 

Bdubbs

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The only aftermarket k member I would consider would be the steeda one. Unless it's a drag oriented car. I thought about going with a different one when the headers went in.

At the time when I asked about them I got a lot of feedback. I like spirited driving, not just a straight line.
 

01yellercobra

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I have a Maximum K member. My only real issue with it is that it widened the front track width a little bit. Beyond that I like it. I don't have any noises from it. And when I had to replace the clutch cable it was a breeze because I could fit both hands in there to get to the bolt that holds the cable. And this weekend I'll get to find out how much it helps when replacing the alternator.
 

jtkz13

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I dont want to go coilover or change geometry at all, so I'd be going with the PA racing one, possibly with the road race option for extra strength.

I have read really nothing but good reviews for the PA, and my installer has done tons of them. Its more that I wasnt budgeting an extra grand for it right now, but I want to do things right.
 

Soap

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If it's just a street car/cruiser it does you no good. The weight savings are irrelevant unless you race. Just leave it alone.

--Joe
 

BLOWN9646

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No NVH here and the weight savings with the addition of tubular arms & coilovers def helps IMO, esp on these nose heavy cars. But, I understand he doesn't want to spend to do it all
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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No NVH here and the weight savings with the addition of tubular arms & coilovers def helps IMO, esp on these nose heavy cars. But, I understand he doesn't want to spend to do it all
More hp cures that. And from a safety point none of the tubular ones are stronger than stock.
 

94slowbra1

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if you dont race it and are not going to do the other things that go with it (coil overs, tubular a-arms ect..) i say skip it. take the 1k and put it towards something else you will see the benefit from
 

roy_1031

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I dont want to go coilover or change geometry at all, so I'd be going with the PA racing one, possibly with the road race option for extra strength.

I have read really nothing but good reviews for the PA, and my installer has done tons of them. Its more that I wasnt budgeting an extra grand for it right now, but I want to do things right.

That's the very reason why I went with my PA K, nothing but positive reviews. You're going to spend more money with having to buy an oil filter relocation kit because it gets in the way of the oil filter. I tried multiple oil filters. Different brands short fat stubby ones and the only one that worked was a tiny Honda filter which I wasn't comfortable using so I was forced to buy a relocation kit. There's a ground on the driver side that needs to be relocated as well so the K will sit flat. The brake lines on the passenger rub the K member so I had to wrap them in a rubber hose to prevent the line from rubbing on metal. Also had to grind a nipple off the motor mount to make it sit flush. I HAD Mac headers and they rubbed the K member but I switched to ARH and they clear just fine, so not sure if it was the K or the Mac design. Also had to space the front wheels out because on full turn lock to lock, the rim would hit the A arm. I think that's all, now that it's in it works just fine. So my recommendation is go with a MM one so you can still handle well and be confident in the corners, or stay on the stock OEM one. MM also has great customer service, can't say the same for PA. Ok that's all, sorry for ranting. Just thought I'd share my experience.


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holiks03cobra

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I have a UPR k member and like it. The only "issue" I have with it is that the oil filter is real close to not having enough room to go on. If I ran a filter bigger than an Amsoil it wouldn't fit.
 

fitforspeed

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I just had a Steeda k installed in my 03 and love it!! Everything fit like a glove, no oil filter relocation needed, works with factory control arms and springs. Two mounting points for control arms, Adjustable Ackerman, strong, 19lbs lighter than stock, looks killer, in my opinion it's the best option on the market. I previously had a tubular chromoly k and while this is not quite as light it's way stronger, fit and design is far superior, I highly recommend the Steeda if your considering doing a k!
 

D-MANN

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You can't go wrong with MM or Steeda. Both are made strong. I have both and took a few pics
28ed4ae9846bf6faca4bd34c8b24533b.jpg

7741e14b5ccd1e599964f7223e913a75.jpg



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SVTPete83

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I have a racecraft k member and a arms. It uses the stock spring and shock location and the stock oil filter does fit but it's tight. The setup saved me 50+ pounds on the front end and fit like a glove.


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jtkz13

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So I've decided to skip the k-member for now. I know I may regret it, but the extra money could definitely be spent better places on the car and in my life right now.

I will say I had a Racecraft in my 95 Cobra and it was awesome, I might go that way and with tubular a-arms to save even more weight.
 

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