Considering you're a vendor, yet make condencending statements toward the forum public as demonstrated above, I'll take your advice considering customer service and steer clear of your services. IMO the tone of this thread throws up a big red flag in any dealings with your "business." :nono:
Lets talk differentials
- Thread starter xXSnakeBiteXx
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Considering you're a vendor, yet make condencending statements toward the forum public as demonstrated above, I'll take your advice considering customer service and steer clear of your services. IMO the tone of this thread throws up a big red flag in any dealings with your "business." :nono:
earico i tried to do my research on differentials when my shop recommended the tru trac several years ago. since then from what i'be been able to tell from these boards, the positive reviews seem to outweigh the negatives by a long shot. also i wouldn't be surprised if some of the problems people are experiencing might be due to installation error. just sayin that there seem to be alot more folks happy with it for our cars (lighntings and shelby gt500's too) than not
If that is what make you happy then ok.
If my customer service was so bad then why did I send you a free template to make those Pro 5.0 shifter plates you put in your car? :bored:
I hear you and I understand that there are design improvements and there have been many successes with it. I was merely giving the OP the history of this diff. Not once have I said that he shouldn't buy it. :shrug:
+1 i was just giving my experience and got attacked with "installation error" i'm not sure how installation error will cause internal worm gear slop INSIDE the differential unit which was brand new and unopened. I would have gone torsen if I had known this slop was even a possibility with the truetrac but that's just me. I'm not the only one that has experience this and seems to be hit and miss. It is a great diff and still functions properly. It just has a bit of slop in it. Like i said, Eaton knows about this issue and says it is caused by normal tolerances within the diff.
I have the Tru Trac in my IRS and i pulled the Diff 2 times thinking I had messed up the backlash. I pulled the second time just because I set the backlash so tight that I had bad gear whine, pulled it again an set it EXACTLY as specified and redid the entire build. Bottom line, I discovered that the clunk remained and driving slow in stop and go traffic or stop signs is VERY annoying. Launching and burnouts.... Amazing! This thing is not for DD in my opinion. This diff will help plant high HP to the ground at the Road track or Drag track.
I just deal with it and treat every stop sign like a launch.... :rolling: and no clunk just hook :burnout:
I just deal with it and treat every stop sign like a launch.... :rolling: and no clunk just hook :burnout:
My exact experience. I have stated in multiple threads that the truetracs are hit and miss with the clunkyness. The clunk is coming from the tolerances in the internal worm gears. I had contacted Eaton(Detroit) who has acknowledged that there may be clunkyness coming from the diff due to "acceptable" tolerances in the worm gears. It seems people who have a tight truetrac do not believe this and think our gears are incorrectly set up. Its just something we have to live with. If i scrounge up the money and feel ambitious, i will be changing it out.
:rockon:
the problem is it creates slack even between shifts which can break axles from the shock.
i know i am just kidding around. i haven't had any problems with my tru trac so far, there doesnt seem to be any slack in the drivetrain when i'm just driving easy
This makes me wonder if the Slop I noticed in my Trans :dw: is more the culprit than the Rear-end. I guess I will leave it and do the T56 Magnum upgrade. After that..... if I still have the issue I will pull the carrier and replace it.
To answer the OP's question. I like the Differential but as you can see there are some (few) who have issues with slop at slow speeds.
I will update if I figure out what the slop is.
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easiest way to tell is to put the trans in neutral and see if you can rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand with the ebrake on. this will tell you whether the rear is contributing.
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I just put in a used trutrack in my rear, and I get a clunking noise when I shift from neutral into first and back to neutral, and also if I'm in 2nd gear and shift into neutral it also clunks. It's only in those two gears. Is that normal?
Update: After putting car on the lift I noticed the noise is coming from the front of my transmission. Had the trans in gear and the e-brake on. I think my input shaft wasn't shimmed correctly. I'm gonna pull it and check it. I didn't use a dial indicator the first time cause I didn't have one. But it's possible it's just slop.
I think I did the same thing. So what can be done about this?
chillidog10129
New Member
I have a true Trac In an F-350 10.5 4X4 Have had no problems other than a clink shifting from FWD to RVRS. I attribute that to the gearing inside. That said I have had no problems even at 500 + ft lbs of tourque. love it and will keep running the crap out of it. If it breaks I will buy another and run the crap out of it too. Performance = power and $$$'s drive it, when it breaks put another one in it. Old time saying Horsepower = Dollars and to this day I have never found that statement untrue no matter the make, model, or what you have in it second lesson was just cause people think they are a good mechanic does not mean they know what they are doing any one can bolt parts together but a real technician measures three plus times to ensure the correct performance.... 24+ years on aircraft and cars.
I just did a eaton true trac with motive 3:90s and a FR irs cover. Looks and performs amazing!! The car feels alot more stout, and the 3:90 gears are perfect!
nice :rockon:
I wouldnt mind hearing something about the torsen i was giving an out of town buddy a spirited ride the other night went to brody the car around and it went all one tire on my ass and i dont know about you guys but in a camaro or something that might be fine but not in my terminator you know what im saying so im looking also for insight on a new diff something that is streetable but will put the power down on the track both drag and circuit but will be as reliable as possible thats what i though you got from the trsen versus a clutch style lsd. Does the eaton you guys are talking about use clutch disks?
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