I have EBC YellowStuff pads on the front; Satisfied GranSports on the rear.
EBC YellowStuff
Dust: Moderate on the street, very little on track
Noise: Quiet as can be, they have never made a peep
Cold braking: Very good
Hot braking: Freakin fantastic, super easy to modulate but bite very hard when needed.
I would buy these again for street/track duty but not likely street only duty. These might not be the best choice for autocross as they likely will not be up to temperature for max bite. They are a good compromise and avoid the hassle of swapping rotors and pads at the track.
Satisfied GranSports (TireRack)
Dust: None
Noise: None
Cold braking: better then stock pads
Hot braking: These pads on the rear appear to be doing OK (I melted the fronts on the track, but they are fine for street use.)
I would buy these again for street duty but not for street/track duty.
The EBC's appear to wear more on street duty when cold, hence the moderate dusting. On track, once they are hot, they don't appear to dust much at all. I can drive back and forth to work 1 day and have moderate dust when I get home, but 2-3 hours on the track and my wheels are still clean.
To flesh out a little what Jimmy was saying about bedding in pads, maximum friction is achieved when there is pad material imbedded into the brake rotor. Most pads are not compatible with other pads so running a pad on a rotor that has another pad material imbedded into it is bad for friction. However it is possible to get compatible pads for street and track use and just swap pads at the track. I think Carbotech, amongst others, tries to market this angle. If you are are swapping an old pair of pads out with the same material there is no inherent need to machine your rotors if they are true. Simply measure the rotor thickness and make sure they are within safe thickness limits and slap your new pads on and go. No need to machine, no need to imbed. If your swapping pad material then you need to machine and imbed the new pads for max friction. If you notice strange surface patterns or an uneven wear pattern from ID to OD of the rotor then you likely have an issue with your calipers that you need to get straightend out prior to relying on them at 130+ MPH, and you will need to true up your rotors if there is enough material left to do so.
I have the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. You can find it at Advance Auto or Autozone. I can't complain about it yet as it has worked well for me. Make sure you have fresh brake fluid and cooling ducts to keep temps down. High temps and bad fluid are the primary causes of brake fade. Unfortunately heat is the primary mode of energy dissapation in a friction brake system, so you need good fluid and pad materials that can withstand the temps. When I melted my front Satified pads (photos) it felt and sounded like I had rocks in my brakes. The material melted off the pad and adhered to the rotor.
EBC YellowStuff
Dust: Moderate on the street, very little on track
Noise: Quiet as can be, they have never made a peep
Cold braking: Very good
Hot braking: Freakin fantastic, super easy to modulate but bite very hard when needed.
I would buy these again for street/track duty but not likely street only duty. These might not be the best choice for autocross as they likely will not be up to temperature for max bite. They are a good compromise and avoid the hassle of swapping rotors and pads at the track.
Satisfied GranSports (TireRack)
Dust: None
Noise: None
Cold braking: better then stock pads
Hot braking: These pads on the rear appear to be doing OK (I melted the fronts on the track, but they are fine for street use.)
I would buy these again for street duty but not for street/track duty.
The EBC's appear to wear more on street duty when cold, hence the moderate dusting. On track, once they are hot, they don't appear to dust much at all. I can drive back and forth to work 1 day and have moderate dust when I get home, but 2-3 hours on the track and my wheels are still clean.
To flesh out a little what Jimmy was saying about bedding in pads, maximum friction is achieved when there is pad material imbedded into the brake rotor. Most pads are not compatible with other pads so running a pad on a rotor that has another pad material imbedded into it is bad for friction. However it is possible to get compatible pads for street and track use and just swap pads at the track. I think Carbotech, amongst others, tries to market this angle. If you are are swapping an old pair of pads out with the same material there is no inherent need to machine your rotors if they are true. Simply measure the rotor thickness and make sure they are within safe thickness limits and slap your new pads on and go. No need to machine, no need to imbed. If your swapping pad material then you need to machine and imbed the new pads for max friction. If you notice strange surface patterns or an uneven wear pattern from ID to OD of the rotor then you likely have an issue with your calipers that you need to get straightend out prior to relying on them at 130+ MPH, and you will need to true up your rotors if there is enough material left to do so.
I have the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid. You can find it at Advance Auto or Autozone. I can't complain about it yet as it has worked well for me. Make sure you have fresh brake fluid and cooling ducts to keep temps down. High temps and bad fluid are the primary causes of brake fade. Unfortunately heat is the primary mode of energy dissapation in a friction brake system, so you need good fluid and pad materials that can withstand the temps. When I melted my front Satified pads (photos) it felt and sounded like I had rocks in my brakes. The material melted off the pad and adhered to the rotor.
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