The short block is at the machine shop. I plan on cleaning both the block and heads with the brushes described above. The are going to check out the crank and see if some crap was/is in it.
I bought a canton pan already but will need to weld on some type of skid plate to the k-member just in case i go off track, don't want to tear up the pan since it does hang down below the k-member.
Good deal.
Carlos you are running an air to oil oil cooler right?
The OE pancake(oil to water) oil cooler is impossible to clean and would need to be replaced.
Even with the superior air to oil set up cleaning may be a challenge. A worthwhile task none the less, as are the lines.
I would be compelled to compress a lash adjuster or two on a white paper towel and see what comes out. If they don't puke out any metal then the rest are probably OK. But it would be nice to know that no metal could be sourced from ANY OF THEM when you re-fire it. Same goes for the timing chain tensioners, though they are a little more challenging to do and still get re-pinned afterward for re-installation.
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I wonder if it would be possible to open up the drain back holes in the heads and block a tad, with out wrecking the new head gaskets in the process. If the diameter of the head gasket oil drain is already larger than the drain, then maybe just go to that size and leave the gasket alone.
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