Metco Lower Install

[Lethalchem]

Can someone tell me the benifits of doing the lower instead of the upper? I am getting my 03 on march 7th, and it's being sold with an uninstalled 2.93 pulley. I hear people going with the 3.1's and a lower, but I don't hear anything about doing a 2/93 and a lower. Is there a reason for this? Also, what would be the reason to do both?

 

[Dana]

Doing the lower and leaving the upper at the stock size greatly reduces or eliminates the slippage common to installs that use a smaller upper pulley. A smaller upper pulley will slip sooner than a stock size one. The down side is that the accessories driven by the lower spin faster too.

Many people went with the smaller size upper because it was the first thing available, easily installed and much less expensive than the lower kits, when they did finally arrive on the scene. As for why some are using both upper and lower, I can only speak for myself. I initially had a 3.0 inch upper, but felt more boost was possible than the approximately 12 #'s I was getting. Not wanting to go any smaller on the upper, as slippage was definitely becoming as issue, I opted to go the lower route for the additional increase. Since then, larger (100mm) idler kits and even added idler kits, have been introduced that decrease the amount of slippage with the smaller upper pulleys.
Do a little research and reading before making a decision. Installing the smaller upper isn't a big deal and there are kits available that will allow you to interchage various sizes at will. A similiar concept exists for the lowers too.
As with almost everything else on this model car, it is a matter of experimenting to find what works for you.
Dana

 

[Hunter]

Dana - Start to finish, how long did the lower install take you? Don't forget to count the scratching your head time too.

 

[Dana]

Hunter,
I really can't answer that because I did it over a period of 2 days, and it's been a couple of months since I did it. But if I had to guess, about 3 or 4 hours, I think. It really isn't a bad job, especially if you are a little familiar with these motors, which I wasn't. HA! HA! Just line up all your tools first and a place to work on it.
Dana

 

[Hunter]

Can someone provide what parts are included with the Metco lower kit? I might buy a used lower set-up and want to make sure I get it all. Thanks!

 

[EatonEggbeater]

A local shop in Manassas Va did both upper and lower for a guy (along with other stuff, and at different times) and dynoed the car. With the addition of the lower pulley, the HP remained the same, 490, but the torque went up to 585. Evidently, the car's borderline insane on the street. The owner/mechanic also noted that though the HP hadn't changed, the powerband had a lot more area under the curve. He'd done the upper pulley a few weeks ago. Excessive, definitely. Mine's stock, but I'm tracking everyone elses, it may not stay that way!

 

[SolidSnake]

What's a good size lower to put with the 2.93 upper? I have the idlers too....does that make a difference?

 

[Dana]

Solid,
The idlers only impact the upper pulley.
As far as a lower, it all depends on the end result you desire.

Check this thread, if you haven't already:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39803&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

Dana

 

[2F2F]

I plan to edit this as I go along...

A Numerical Recap:

1. Note stock locations of brackets, wire sets and hoses bolted to the lower cage.
2. Secure the vehicle on jack stands and use wheel blocks if required.
3. Have a friend apply the brakes when torquing the 14mm lower crank pulley.
4. Loosen the power steering fluid reservoir (three 10mm hex screws)
5. Remove the nuts and bolts of the lower cage prior to torquing the 14mm crank pulley
6. Light sanding may be required to fit the new pulley hub onto the stock dampener.
7. Insure that wire sets and hoses are clear of the A/C compressor.
8. There is a good amount of wrenching to be done in and around tight spaces.

Additional Notes:

1. There is a considerable amount of play when attempting to free the 14mm crank pulley. Be patient and above all, be strong. Removal of the lower crank pulley requires greater torque than does the removal of the supercharger pulley. Be sure to keep the supplied 14mm hex aligned with the crank pulley, else run the risk of bending the stock pulley assembly.
2. Clearance is tight when fitting the 14mm hex key and 1/2" drive between the engine fan and lower crank pulley. Come in at an angle and wiggle the hex key in.
3. Setting the vehicle into 4th, 5th or 6th gear before torquing the 14mm lower crank pulley is recommended.

Personal Notes:

1. Installed unresized 2 lb. lower ring. Revised 2 lb. pulley ring to be installed when production run commences. Would have gone with the revised 4 lb. ring, but wanted to avoid CA summer heatsoak. Will consider a 4 lb. ring when FLUIDYNE releases their '03-specific heat exchanger for general consumption.

Recommended Tools & Accessories:

1. 1/4" ratchet drive (for tight spaces)
2. 3/8" ratchet drive (for general use)
3. 1/2" ratchet drive (for belt tensioner and crank pulley cage removal)
4. 18.0" SCH 40 steel pipe (for use over 1/2" ratchet drive as a breaker bar)
5. 5mm Allen wrench (for idler bracket assembly)
6. 6mm Allen wrench (for idler bracket assembly)
7. 8mm hex key to 3/8" hex socket (for pulley hub and ring installation)
8. WD-40 or comparable product (for nut removal and thread cleaning)
9. Loctite Tite’N for Bolts (for threadlocking)

Nuts & Bolts - Installation Instructions: Picture #1

A = 10mm hex socket
B = 13mm hex socket
C = 13mm hex socket
D = 13mm hex socket
E = 13mm hex socket
F = 14mm hex key (supplied by manufacturer)
G = 10mm hex socket

Nuts & Bolts - Installation Instructions: Picture #2

A-1 = 5mm hex key or Allen
A-2 = 5mm hex key or Allen
B = 18mm hex socket
C = 6mm hex key or Allen
D = 10mm hex socket
E = 8mm hex socket

Recommended belt size:

1. Pulley Boys 3.10" upper
2. Metco 2 lb. lower (unresized)
3. Metco idler in top position
----------------------------------------
Use a 78-5/8" NAPA/Gates #080780

1. Pulley Boys 3.10" upper
2. Metco 4 lb. lower (resized)
3. Metco idler in top position
4. Metco 3.20" alternator pulley
----------------------------------------
Use a 79-3/4" Gatorback #4080797

Much thanks and appreciation to Dana for starting this thread...
And to others for helping me through my initial installation =>) !

 

[MightyMo]

Was going to purchase a supercharger pulley, pulley remover.
Read about how difficult the whole process of taking the old pulley off and installing the new pulley on the supercharger..

Read about installing a lower pulley to gain boost, but then the alternator spins faster. How much faster? Don't know..

Is there a kit out there, something like a lower pulley with slightly larger alternator pulley where I can gain 4lbs of boost and no belt slippage?

are my questions good ones or am I simply confused?

thanks..

 

[Dana]

If it takes you longer than 30 minutes to change the upper pulley, you did something wrong.
Buy the Pulley Boys Puller and follow the instructions.

The larger lower will spin the alternator a lot faster. Probably in the area of 20 to 25%. This puts it up in the 15000 RPM range. Too fast for the Ford alternator bearings, in my opinion.

There is no kit as such, but some places sell both.

You can do a search for alternator pulley on this board or lower pulley also.
The question has been raised many times.

Dana

 

[lRageATMl]

I installed the 4lb lower kit over the weekend...

Wow, I feel like I have a whole new car. But now I have a ton of questions for anyone using the Metco lower pulley kit, but first my experience with the installation (my friends shop did it, but I was helping him every step of the way).

When I first opened up the box I was like, wtf are all these parts?!?!?! But then I stepped back, calmed down, and read the directions. This job wasn't bad at all. The only part that gave us a ton of trouble was the damn crank bolt thingy. That thing would not turn for it's life. We couldn't get it off when the car was in 1st gear, the crank kept turning. SO finally I decided to try a different gear (1 hour later from 1st gear). The crank finally stopped moving. Now what surprised the hell out of me was that the crank bolt was tightened so hard. To get it off, we had a breaker bar, with a pipe on top of it (giving us about 4 feet of leverage) and only after each of us tried we finally got the damn bolt off. From here on out the job got easy again. Oh yeah, and the little hex tool the Metco kit came with, nearly broke. It was twisted in so many ways. Good thing the snap-on truck was there cause he had some serious sockets that saved the day.

I had a bunch of questions but after reading this thread all of my questions have been answered.

I am still getting notciable belt slip with my 2.75 upper and 4lb lower with my 77.2" gatorback belt. So I am stuck with a couple of poisitons. I can look for a smaller belt, or I can try moving the idler to the upper position. I think I'll go with the latter for now and see how much that will help. I jsut hope it won't be a PIA to move it to the upper position.

 

[nivek]

Where do you get the kit from from?

 

[Dana]

Did you think I was kidding when I said it was tight?

Change the belt to a smaller size, it's easier. To move the lower idler pulley, you will have to remove that mounting bracket. Not difficult, but time comsuming.

Belt size may not be the issue, unless it's really loose. If the adjuster is reasonably close to center, a smaller belt will not help, except for the few minutes its new. Then the slip will return.

You should have also installed the 3rd idler and replaced the original idlers with larger ones too to enhance belt wrap.
Do this if you haven't done so already.
You will never eliminate belt slip entirely (especially with a 2.75 upper) with this type of drive system, regardless of what you may read.

What type of boost pressure are you seeing at the moment?

Good luck,
Dana

 

[lRageATMl]

Originally posted by Dana
Did you think I was kidding when I said it was tight?

Change the belt to a smaller size, it's easier. To move the lower idler pulley, you will have to remove that mounting bracket. Not difficult, but time comsuming.

Belt size may not be the issue, unless it's really loose. If the adjuster is reasonably close to center, a smaller belt will not help, except for the few minutes its new. Then the slip will return.

You should have also installed the 3rd idler and replaced the original idlers with larger ones too to enhance belt wrap.
Do this if you haven't done so already.
You will never eliminate belt slip entirely (especially with a 2.75 upper) with this type of drive system, regardless of what you may read.

What type of boost pressure are you seeing at the moment?

Good luck,
Dana

I will replace the stock idlers in due time, but for now I guess I will try different size belts. The current one is a 77.2 Gatorback. I'm going to the dyno next saturday (a week from tommorow), so when i go there I'm going to bring a 76" belt, and a 76.5" belt (assuming both sizes exist) so when i'm on there I can try different sizes.

 

[Dana]

Where is the adjuster at in its travel?
If it is way toward the right side, it is probably as tight as it is going to go. If it is near the extreme left edge, then you will probably be able to install a smaller belt.

Dana

 

[lRageATMl]

i'll have to look tommmorow, I don't have a garage here at work or at home and it's raining so hard that you would think the world is ending.

 

[lRageATMl]

Originally posted by Dana
Where is the adjuster at in its travel?
If it is way toward the right side, it is probably as tight as it is going to go. If it is near the extreme left edge, then you will probably be able to install a smaller belt.

Dana

here you go Dana:

It seems like this belt is perfect!

 

[Dana]

Yes, the tensioner is just about dead center. It could go more to the right, but I don't thnk that would diminish the slippage any.

Your only recourse is to either add the 3rd idler, if you do not have one yet and/or a non-slip upper pulley. That's if the slippage becomes a cause of concern for you.

Dana

 

[lRageATMl]

I have the 100mm idler, and the RR no-slip pulley. I think I will invest in the other two pulley's as well (to complete the set).