Service manuals for Eaton-equipped GM vehicles used to say: #12345982 or "equivalent synthetic 5W-30"
GM 12345982 is synthetic
Yes
GM 12345982 is synthetic
Yes
mobil 1 synthetic for the eaton?
- Thread starter KINGCOBRA86
- Start date
I put Amsoil 10W-30 in all my Ports and it's perfectly fine like IronTerp said above. Just change it once a year or every 15,000 miles. Nobody has ever posted an issue with using Mobil 1 either. Just change it regularly.
Really? I never even thought about using 23699!I believe the GM supercharger oil is non-synthetic but the Motorcraft XL-4 oil IS synthetic, hence the difference in price (but I could be wrong).
THIS is the good stuff to use (one can lasts quite a while!):
never thought that "motor oil" was acceptable... i guess i was wrong. i may have to change out mine when i get back this november.
I have been using Motorcraft 10w-30 synthetic blend and have clocked 84k with no issues.
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thanks guys i pulled the plug off, and tryd sucking some out and nothing came out, so i tryd to add and it took 5oz ? i take it i was low? the car has 25k miles
sucking that shit out with your mouth? :dw: :-D
lol naw, i got a smaller hose and got it all out of there now, put some mobil 10-30 will try and flush it out weeks to come and then put some rp oil in there for good
the cooking syringe/weed whacker fuel line worked good for removing the oil
and i used the MixMizer™ 60cc Graduated Oil Syringe too add
thanks guys :beer:
the cooking syringe/weed whacker fuel line worked good for removing the oil
and i used the MixMizer™ 60cc Graduated Oil Syringe too add
thanks guys :beer:
If you put an angle cut on the end of the hose you can get that last little bit out of the bottom of the case.
Not me told him to leave it dry and I'd refill myself.
Contradicting info. right there. Read....use the supercharger oil for best results but you'll be ok with synthetic engine oil?
oke: It's one or the other, either you chance blowing/leaking seals or you don't. Open/shut for me and why I use the required spec. oil. Why is it that everyone wants the holy grail of lubriants for their motors, transmissions, and rear ends but is willing to cut corners with the blower to save $20? :shrug::??:
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I put mobile 1 in mind 15k miles ago then again the other day, it works. If you are going to worry so much about it put the recommended fluid as that works better im sure (less change interval perhaps).
A lot more people than you doing it also. I've ran 0 (Zero) weight oil in mine before with a 2.9/8lb combo on it.
You had about 1 oz left and that's why I keep suggesting in threads for people to at least check the oil level.
Not me told him to leave it dry and I'd refill myself.
Contradicting info. right there. Read....use the supercharger oil for best results but you'll be ok with synthetic engine oil?
Why is it that everyone wants the holy grail of lubriants for their motors, transmissions, and rear ends but is willing to cut corners with the blower to save $20? :shrug::??:
Because it works perfectly fine. I'll put genuine supercharger oil in my ports if a customer asks for it. Then I have to charge them extra for the port. If I knew where I could get it in Bulk and I could get it cheap enough I'd be all for it. Until then it's Amsoil inside them with a Warranty.
Guys how many OZ does it take?
my tube was to big thats all i could get out at the time my bad
Some good technical data in the Supercharger oil in this thread:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/630092-changing-oil-my-eaton-help.html
Some more good info here from Nye:
http://productsearch.nyelubricants.com/pdf/TDS_English_SYNTHETIC OIL 605.pdf
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/630092-changing-oil-my-eaton-help.html
Some more good info here from Nye:
http://productsearch.nyelubricants.com/pdf/TDS_English_SYNTHETIC OIL 605.pdf
So does the Ford spec. motor oil, trans. fluid, and rear end fluid yet no one wants to use them and the forums are littered with "what's the best motor, trans., or rear end oil" threads. Just making an observation. :-D
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Why supercharger oil?
At the belt-driven end there is a snout with two bearings in it and two gears. These depend on oil, a special oil formulated for superchargers. Supercharger oil is very fine because it has to get into some very small spaces to do its job.
In most parts of your car that need oil, the oil is pumped or slung to where it needs to be. For those applications, that’s fine. The supercharger snout is different. We can’t maintain the oil level up in the area of the seals on the rotor shafts because they can leak into the housing and the rotor group. So the correct oil level is about ¾” to 1” below the center of the lowest rotor shaft. That means the oil will sit lower than the lowest seal and bearing when the blower is not in operation. When the engine starts and the supercharger rotors begin to spin, the gears start slinging oil. Unfortunately, they cannot sling oil to the front of the snout. A simple slinging arrangement won’t be enough. That’s where supercharger oil comes in.
Supercharger oil is unique in that when it is stirred and slung it atomizes. The area inside the snout becomes filled with an oily fog that permeates all the way to the bearing at the front of the snout.
At the belt-driven end there is a snout with two bearings in it and two gears. These depend on oil, a special oil formulated for superchargers. Supercharger oil is very fine because it has to get into some very small spaces to do its job.
In most parts of your car that need oil, the oil is pumped or slung to where it needs to be. For those applications, that’s fine. The supercharger snout is different. We can’t maintain the oil level up in the area of the seals on the rotor shafts because they can leak into the housing and the rotor group. So the correct oil level is about ¾” to 1” below the center of the lowest rotor shaft. That means the oil will sit lower than the lowest seal and bearing when the blower is not in operation. When the engine starts and the supercharger rotors begin to spin, the gears start slinging oil. Unfortunately, they cannot sling oil to the front of the snout. A simple slinging arrangement won’t be enough. That’s where supercharger oil comes in.
Supercharger oil is unique in that when it is stirred and slung it atomizes. The area inside the snout becomes filled with an oily fog that permeates all the way to the bearing at the front of the snout.
^This, I wouldnt leave it to chance and I'd go with the supercharger Oil.
Cobracide, that all sounds great and all, and is certainly way beyond my knowledge of the inner oiling mechanisms of the Eaton 112 supercharger, but for whatever reason, the synthetic 30 weight motor oil that currently resides in thousands of these blowers is somehow working just fine. So fine in fact that the two companies (Posi Performance and Steigemeier Porting), that have been inside more of these blowers than any other entity, are confident that this lubrication approach is not a risk to their warranties of the thousands of the M-112's that they have ported over the years.
I personally have no animosity towards using supercharger oil in the M-112, nor is it a financial burden for me to do so. And I have 7 Ford and Chevy dealerships within 30 minutes of my house so it's certainly not an inconvenience for me to buy it. I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil in my eaton because there is no risk and it has been proven to be totally sufficient with the proper lubrication of the blower. This subject has been debated to death for years.
I personally have no animosity towards using supercharger oil in the M-112, nor is it a financial burden for me to do so. And I have 7 Ford and Chevy dealerships within 30 minutes of my house so it's certainly not an inconvenience for me to buy it. I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil in my eaton because there is no risk and it has been proven to be totally sufficient with the proper lubrication of the blower. This subject has been debated to death for years.
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