Motor Teardown - Any Specialty Tools

jackers

Solid Axle Equipt
Established Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
Messages
1,318
Location
California, MD
I am tearing my motor down today. Are there any specialty tools that I need for just the teardown, other than the harmonic balancer puller?

My plan is to pull the heads while keeping them assembled. I have new Stage III heads that I'll take to my engine builder for when he assembles my longblock. Other than that, I just need my rods and crank removed.

When I pull the heads, do I need to lock the cams down? I think that requires a specialty tool direct from Ford (according to my Haynes manual).
 

TRBO VNM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
23,095
Location
Maryland
Na, just slowly loosen the head bolts little at a time. For good measure I would set motor to TDC, but won't really matter.

You should get a power steering pulley removal tool. There is one bolt that sucks to get to.
 

jackers

Solid Axle Equipt
Established Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
Messages
1,318
Location
California, MD
Ok, how the heck do I get the rod caps off? I'm hoping to reuse my rods but it's definitely more important to save my crank.
 

Quick Strike

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2003
Messages
2,069
Location
PA
Ok, how the heck do I get the rod caps off? I'm hoping to reuse my rods but it's definitely more important to save my crank.

Turn the capscrews out a few turns. Then tap each screwhead with a mallet or hammer and block of wood until the cap is loose. Take the bolts out, remove the cap and press the rod past the crank journal with even thumb pressure on either side without scratching the crank journal. Mark the cap and rod to keep the correct pair in the correct alignment with the correct orientation.

Remember to turn the jack-screws into the main caps after removing the side bolts from the main caps. Also note the orientation of the spacer on the end main bearing.
 

jackers

Solid Axle Equipt
Established Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2004
Messages
1,318
Location
California, MD
Turn the capscrews out a few turns. Then tap each screwhead with a mallet or hammer and block of wood until the cap is loose. Take the bolts out, remove the cap and press the rod past the crank journal with even thumb pressure on either side without scratching the crank journal. Mark the cap and rod to keep the correct pair in the correct alignment with the correct orientation.

Remember to turn the jack-screws into the main caps after removing the side bolts from the main caps. Also note the orientation of the spacer on the end main bearing.

Sounds great, thanks for the help!

Do I need to worry about the orientation of the spacer on the main bearing if I don't plan to re-use it?
 

Quick Strike

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2003
Messages
2,069
Location
PA
Sounds great, thanks for the help!

Do I need to worry about the orientation of the spacer on the main bearing if I don't plan to re-use it?

The new one will go in the same way so it is good to save and mark the old one so that you remember. I rebuilt mine two years after taking it apart. I was glad for what I had written down and took pictures of it as it came apart. The manual is confusing at times. So, marked old parts, pictures, writing and drawings came in very handy.
 

Quagmire

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2010
Messages
438
Location
Detroit
Bag everything a label it. Just got mine back together and so far all bolts there are no extra bolts or nuts. I still have to dress the engine in harness and hoses, i am sure i will miss one or two things but in the end its weight reduction.
 

wjurls

More money than brains
Established Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
709
Location
Riverside,Ca
Bag everything a label it. Just got mine back together and so far all bolts there are no extra bolts or nuts. I still have to dress the engine in harness and hoses, i am sure i will miss one or two things but in the end its weight reduction.

This! I am always amazed at people that pile all the hardware in the toolbox, tray or whatever. As I'm working, whenever possible, all bolts go back into the original hole from where it came out. When not possible, they go into individual labeled ziplock bags. If a device (say water pump) has various length fasteners, I will make a crude drawing of where they go and put it in the bag as well.
 

Quick Strike

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2003
Messages
2,069
Location
PA
Blue painters tape and a sharpie are also good to have around during disassembly. It helps with wiring harnesses labeling and labeling/grouping small parts/fasteners. Oil and light fade pen marking over time, and regular tape is too sticky and leaves a residue.

Quagmire, You must be pretty excited to hear that engine run again. How long until it fires?
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread



Top