My KB 3.6 Install.

[Bobbyblaze]

Got my KB 3.6 today and decided to get as much done as I could today. I've been working on it slowly since 10am this morning, and feel I got a nice chunk of the install complete..

Anyways, I've NEVER done a install like this, so bare with me. I am trying to take my time and make as least mistakes as possible.

I opted for the engine lowering kit from Whipple instead of replacing the hood. I knew the engine mounts and lowering kit would be a PITA so I decided to start with that first to get it out of the way. Here are some pictures I took with my phone.

The transmission cross member was the easiest to space so we put those in first.

We went to the front of the K-Member next, its hard to see the spacer in the picture but its there.

Then we did the back of the K-member and the sway bar relocation spacer. I didn't get pics of this part because my phone was too dead the camera wouldn't work.. Sorry
The instructions for the Engine Mounts and Whipple Lowering Kit are pretty vague.. You have to just figure it out as you go..

Here is a pic of the engine mount installed.

After we got everything buttoned up I took her for a test drive to see how it drove with the new engine mounts and lowered engine. Right away I noticed a vibration at 1500-2200 RPM. It vibrates whether I'm completely stopped or going 30 - 40 MPH. To me it feels like its coming from the back of the car. I'm attributing this to the solid motor mounts maybe? It is pretty annoying to me anyways. Any one have this happen after using lowering engine mounts? Did I do something wrong?

Ok so, I live with the vibration for now and continue on..

That's all I had for tonight.. Tomorrow I can go at it for a few more hours, but might end up finishing Saturday.. I'll take more pics with a charged phone..

She waits....

 

[Beercules]

Get adjustable motor mounts with the red poly. Much lower durometer, but still more than stock. Means you have to spend another $150 or so but the vibration will go away, it did for mine. (Did it to look into a theory about the 1-2 shift).

The after market motor mounts are all about the same size so they're a lot easier to change than the huge oem.

 

[Bobbyblaze]

Get adjustable motor mounts with the red poly. Much lower durometer, but still more than stock. Means you have to spend another $150 or so but the vibration will go away, it did for mine. (Did it to look into a theory about the 1-2 shift).

The after market motor mounts are all about the same size so they're a lot easier to change than the huge oem.

The ones with red poly are better than the KB ones? Mine have black poly and are adjustable too. I will buy different mounts if it really will make a difference.. All the different brand ones look so similar.

EDIT: I just did some research on some different engine mounts and it seems the black poly is harder than the red.. Do you think the switch will be worth the money and 3 sets of engine mounts I would have LOL?

 

[BOSSPOWER]

Looking good, can't wait for the numbers.

Manuel

 

[Beercules]

Just depends on if you want the vibration or not. Only difference is red is lower durometer and won't transfer as many vibrations

 

[Beercules]

I went around looking for just the bushings, can't find them. .. had to get the whole mount.

 

[STCobra]

I am so excited for you-hope all goes smooth!!!!!!

 

[Bobbyblaze]

Thanks guys!! The install is moving along, I hope to finish it today if all goes well.. The EGR valve is being a pita to bolt back on, thats were I left off last night. Get a fresh set of eyes on it this evening..

 

[BrunotheBoxer]

Good luck pal.

 

[Bobbyblaze]

Couple pics from last night..

Put the intake base plate on or whatever it is called.

Then the supercharger.

See the plug that is disconnected in the pic (I think its the intake temp sensor), from the factory this plug was crooked. Which wouldn't allow the super charger to line up with the intake bolts properly. So had to shave a little bit off the plug with a Dremel.

Now is a perfect time to check and see if the hood will close with the KB 3.6, and it doesn't. So we had to notch the hood.

That is all for now.. Going to go back and try to finish it up tonight.. Maybe have a start up video..

 

[1320 Junkie]

The vibe issues are the reason I went with the Black Mamba hood...best of luck with the rest....I love the 3.6 on my car.

 

[Rail1]

The POWER O the POWER.....enjoy it and be safe

 

[Bobbyblaze]

The vibe issues are the reason I went with the Black Mamba hood...best of luck with the rest....I love the 3.6 on my car.

Didn't you have to change the motor mounts with the Black Mamba?

 

[1320 Junkie]

Didn't you have to change the motor mounts with the Black Mamba?

Nope...not one spacer added to my car...just a notch in the hood bump out like you have is all that was required. Easy.

 

[Hardage]

I have not posted here much but plan on coming around more often. Before you bolt that bad boy up, make about 1000% sure you don't want different injectors because you will have to pull it to get the drivers side rail off. On my car with headers, stock lower pulley, a 3.6 upper, ID 725's and dual boost pumps I put down 774 rwhp at 18 psi on 18 degrees of timing with pump gas. That's about the limit of the 3.6 on pump gas with a stock lower end. The only thing I didn't like was typical of KB, I gained HP but lost Torque. All in all, it made my car more controllable as the power didn't hit so hard right off the bat. The thing I really enjoy is when tooling around town the thing whines like a jet auxiliary power unit and spools down when in neutral at a light sounding like a jet engine with the fuel just cut off. It sounds cool and is addictive. It's kept me from going whole hog on a stereo system that's for sure. The KB is different than a TVS in that it just keeps on making power all the way to redline. My dyno graph was a 45 degree line on HP right up to the requested rpm cutoff of 6700. The guy stepped out of the car and looked at the graph and looked at me and said "It was still making power when I lifted" and it was. Which TB did you go with and is LUND tuning it? If you went with the big oval like I did, don't sweat it if your initial idle is at 2k rpm. Apparently there are a couple of parameters they have to guess at on the idle and if they miss you get a high idle. It was a quick email revision, load, and boom...750 idle.

Joe

 

[Hourigan218]

What are your torque numbers? Love the hp numbers. Looking forward to a 3.6 soon, but with 3.73's out back. I want a good strong pull of torque but not too intrusive.

 

[2011 gtcs]

Damn this is a good writer up, can't wait to see it all done

 

[Bobbyblaze]

I have not posted here much but plan on coming around more often. Before you bolt that bad boy up, make about 1000% sure you don't want different injectors because you will have to pull it to get the drivers side rail off. On my car with headers, stock lower pulley, a 3.6 upper, ID 725's and dual boost pumps I put down 774 rwhp at 18 psi on 18 degrees of timing with pump gas. That's about the limit of the 3.6 on pump gas with a stock lower end. The only thing I didn't like was typical of KB, I gained HP but lost Torque. All in all, it made my car more controllable as the power didn't hit so hard right off the bat. The thing I really enjoy is when tooling around town the thing whines like a jet auxiliary power unit and spools down when in neutral at a light sounding like a jet engine with the fuel just cut off. It sounds cool and is addictive. It's kept me from going whole hog on a stereo system that's for sure. The KB is different than a TVS in that it just keeps on making power all the way to redline. My dyno graph was a 45 degree line on HP right up to the requested rpm cutoff of 6700. The guy stepped out of the car and looked at the graph and looked at me and said "It was still making power when I lifted" and it was. Which TB did you go with and is LUND tuning it? If you went with the big oval like I did, don't sweat it if your initial idle is at 2k rpm. Apparently there are a couple of parameters they have to guess at on the idle and if they miss you get a high idle. It was a quick email revision, load, and boom...750 idle.

Joe

Thanks for the tip about the injectors, in the future I do want different ones, just couldn't swing the extra 2k for ID1300s right now, e85 is my goal eventually.

My car was 100% stock before the 3.6, I went with the 75mm dual throttle body. Also just running the stock KB tune for now, until I do headers and or injectors e85 then I will have Lund tune it.

 

[Bobbyblaze]

Few more pictures from last night.. Slowly but surely..

Here is the EGR all buttoned up finally.

Then the bypass..

Connected a few more line and it is all buttoned up on the passenger side.. Other than a vacuum line or 2..

Thats it for yesterday.. Have the KB BAP left to go, transferring the goodies out of the stock throttle body over to the new one, and the liquid cooling lines.. I sure hope I can finish tonight.. If not probably not till mid-week.. Fingers crossed..

 

[Grabber07']

ID 1000's should be sufficient for E85 and you can get them rather cheaply if youre not wanting to go BIG before a built bottom end. Combine that with a comp Boost A Pump and E85 will be a-flowin