Gaskets are made of paper and have NOTHING to do with inducing IRS movement. It's all about the bushings and using the right subframe bolts as well as traction to stop the IRS from moving around.
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I like your method. Cheap, easy, and effective = WIN!I did something VERY unconventional to get my IRS to quit leaking. I figured that I would try it and worst case scenario it would still leak. I in the past had been running my car at local track nights and track day events; my rear end had been dripping oil on my driveway and I was just about to pull the trigger and buy a LPW cover when I was sitting at work one night and it hit me. The way the differential flex's under twist, the seal between the cover and the rear end brace gets pulled apart. It at the time made sense to me to just make a bead of silicone and run it from one side of the cover to the other on the bottom of the cover where the cover bolts to the differential housing.
That was over a year ago; me using it as my DD and racing it at several track days (1.56-1.59 60ft.s) It's still not leaking :burnout:
I did something VERY unconventional to get my IRS to quit leaking.
I figured that I would try it and worst case scenario it would still leak.
I in the past had been running my car at local track nights and track day events; my rear end had been dripping oil on my driveway and I was just about to pull the trigger and buy a LPW cover when I was sitting at work one night and it hit me. The way the differential flex's under twist, the seal between the cover and the rear end brace gets pulled apart. It at the time made sense to me to just make a bead of silicone and run it from one side of the cover to the other on the bottom of the cover where the cover bolts to the differential housing.
That was over a year ago; me using it as my DD and racing it at several track days (1.56-1.59 60ft.s)
It's still not leaking :burnout:
My question is will a small leak or seepage turn into a big problem?
Sounds about right, not an easy job because the whole differential has to come out. I highly recommend the LPW and the lubelocker gasket. Solved my leak problem.have the BF brace on mine. Last year when I had my car up on the rack my mechanic pointed out the small leak to me or i would of never known. The shop quoted me $400 to reseal diff + cost of axle seals which surprised me how expensive it is! Plus throw in the cost of the LPW Cover and I'll have over $600 in this job.
How important is this to fix if it's just a tiny seep of oil? Can I put if off for awhile?
I've never changed my diff fluid. How often should this be done?cobracide said:Do you see drips underneath the car when you park?
No never. You can just see a little oil along the seem of the stock cover.
Sounds about right, not an easy job because the whole differential has to come out. I highly recommend the LPW and the lubelocker gasket. Solved my leak problem. How long/miles has it been since you fixed your leak? How many miles did you have on your car when you 1st noticed the leak?
As long as you don't let the differential fluid get low and you keep checking it FREQUENTLY - you should be good.
Then your leak is insignificant.Do you see drips underneath the car when you park?
No never. You can just see a little oil along the seem of the stock cover.
Six monthsSounds about right, not an easy job because the whole differential has to come out. I highly recommend the LPW and the lubelocker gasket. Solved my leak problem.
How long/miles has it been since you fixed your leak?
Right after someone swapped my IRS cover for the LPW. 30kHow many miles did you have on your car when you 1st noticed the leak?
As long as you don't let the differential fluid get low and you keep checking it FREQUENTLY - you should be good.
've never changed my diff fluid. How often should this be done? [/COLOR]
IRS brace at least?? If not it's really only a matter of time before the cover would crack, "from what I've seen anyway" mine leaked and after taking off and seeing how thin it was compared to the LPW and the better features I'm glad I did it. But hey if it's working don't fix it...
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My rear is also seeping slightly and my mechanic said to use the permatex gasket sealant along the bottom of the rear. I still might just have the rear dropped and if I do that what else should I have done while the rear is down? i.e. replace all bushings and if so which ones should I replace with? Any help you can give is appreciated. thanks.
ps. I already have a billetflow irs brace on it
I'm literally putting my IRS back together. Mine was out for the same reason diff leaking. I replaced all the bushings to poly, subframe, lower control arm, upper control arm, and diff bushings. Bought the LPW diff cover along with a lubelocker gasket. I torqued the cover to specs along with lockwashers and locktite. I also Upgraded the tie rods to the thicker upgraded Hiem joints along with sway bar Hiem joint links. Get the tools to remove the bushings or a small butane torch to get em out. It's a pita, get friend to help. Good luck
This sounds good but it is really BS in my experience. I have had poly bushings in my rear ala MM IRS GRIP BOX for years and have never had a problem. I've run my car on a road course more than once, drag strip only once and have carved the mountain roads, in spirited fashion, in WV for years with my set up and not a single issue..............not one! Don't believe the guys that tell you "oh poly bushings aren't much better than stock", not true. My set up really made the car feel more solid and would recommend to anyone wanting to improve the strength of their rear end, also no noticeable difference in sound from the rear either.Unfortunately you'll likely be going back and replacing all those poly bushings again, as there really not much better than the stock rubber ones. Poly ones can also melt from to much heat especially the diff bushings. Delrin is the best for bushings, the rest of your list looks good.
This sounds good but it is really BS in my experience. I have had poly bushings in my rear ala MM IRS GRIP BOX for years and have never had a problem. I've run my car on a road course more than once, drag strip only once and have carved the mountain roads, in spirited fashion, in WV for years with my set up and not a single issue..............not one! Don't believe the guys that tell you "oh poly bushings aren't much better than stock", not true. My set up really made the car feel more solid and would recommend to anyone wanting to improve the strength of their rear end, also no noticeable difference in sound from the rear either.
I want to hear from one guy who has had their poly bushings melt? My next question is describe the driving activity prior to bushings melting. I'm gonna get a beer now.
Can u let me know exactly what I need to buy as it relates to the busing kit(s). I want to make sure I do the job once and upgrade everything while the IRS is down. Also let me know the best place to buy the parts. Thanks in advance.