My 4.6 refuses to start and has every single thing it needs to just sits and cranks and go's blub every now and then and all spark air and fuel seems to be in check
Need some help engine issues
- Thread starter Honorable_kaiser
- Start date
Any codes? Crank sensor, cam sensor, fprs, etc..
Do you smell any raw fuel from the exhaust while cranking? If so press the accelerator to the floor while cranking it shuts down the injectors and it will fire up my car does this once and a while trybthat if you are getting fuel smell to the exhaust while cranking
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Perform following preliminary checks to start: (Scan would be helpful if DTC'S are present)
- Fuel quality.
- Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch.
- Any external fuel shutoff devices (alarm PATS).
- Electrical connections.
- Intake air tube integrity.
- Fuses and relays.
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Only got a p1000 and a p1116
Only codes are p1000 and p1116Perform following preliminary checks to start: (Scan would be helpful if DTC'S are present)
- Fuel quality.
- Inertia Fuel Shutoff Switch.
- Any external fuel shutoff devices (alarm PATS).
- Electrical connections.
- Intake air tube integrity.
- Fuses and relays.
I haven't had and smell like that
You're missing one of those things you think is in check
You've given basically no information so I'm going to assume no MIL present on dash, car has sat for 24+ hours where rodents could've possibly gotten to it & that you don't have 6 month old gas in it. Also going to assume your anti-theft indicator isn't stuck on
-Your starter works, so I can assume nominal amperage is provided to the starting circuit turning the flywheel over
-Assuming you have opened the air inlet tube to check for a rodent nest or other obstruction(you'd be surprised what a dirty air filter can do)
-Spray some cleaner(brake, throttle body, carb doesn't matter) in past the throttle body butterflies; if it starts and runs for a few seconds you know you have a fuel volume and/or pressure issue
-Grab wiring diagrams for your entire ignition circuit, it's $20-40 for a 3-30 day period which is all you need as you can simply print them off. It sounds like your car has the ability to start but you should still do simple checks on your powers and grounds to verify the ECM is commanding everything else to function. Coincidentally doing this will rule out everything the car needs to start and run electrically
The chances of the electrical issue are lower but then again these are old cars now & you're in Idaho up North; corrosion is a mother-lover
Chances are you're overlooking something simple but that's my general advice with the information presented, you can spend an untold amount of hours guessing/throwing parts or you can do what we do professionally by using logical process of elimination via testing
You've given basically no information so I'm going to assume no MIL present on dash, car has sat for 24+ hours where rodents could've possibly gotten to it & that you don't have 6 month old gas in it. Also going to assume your anti-theft indicator isn't stuck on
-Your starter works, so I can assume nominal amperage is provided to the starting circuit turning the flywheel over
-Assuming you have opened the air inlet tube to check for a rodent nest or other obstruction(you'd be surprised what a dirty air filter can do)
-Spray some cleaner(brake, throttle body, carb doesn't matter) in past the throttle body butterflies; if it starts and runs for a few seconds you know you have a fuel volume and/or pressure issue
-Grab wiring diagrams for your entire ignition circuit, it's $20-40 for a 3-30 day period which is all you need as you can simply print them off. It sounds like your car has the ability to start but you should still do simple checks on your powers and grounds to verify the ECM is commanding everything else to function. Coincidentally doing this will rule out everything the car needs to start and run electrically
The chances of the electrical issue are lower but then again these are old cars now & you're in Idaho up North; corrosion is a mother-lover
Chances are you're overlooking something simple but that's my general advice with the information presented, you can spend an untold amount of hours guessing/throwing parts or you can do what we do professionally by using logical process of elimination via testing
Your P1000 just means the ECM hasn't logged a full drive-cycle for the emissions, but shouldn't keep it from starting or hurt anything
Your P1116 is for the engine coolant temperature sensor, now this could certainly keep it from running because the ECM uses ambient coolant/air temperatures to give an initial air/fuel mixture on cold starts(open loop operation)
You should verify power/ground through the connector itself(key-on engine off), you'd have to look up the specs for the reference voltage signal; if those are good then I would replace the sensor
Compression test?
At least 1 hole on each side,
Is there a tune on car?
I've had times with my hand tuner when making changes would do this ,crank no start
Reinstall tune would fix it for me
I also had our tundra do this
Had fuel air spark and timing,
Found a wire broken near pcm in engine bay. This truck attracts rodents,I've had 5 attacks on Main body harness going into firewall ,
At least 1 hole on each side,
Is there a tune on car?
I've had times with my hand tuner when making changes would do this ,crank no start
Reinstall tune would fix it for me
I also had our tundra do this
Had fuel air spark and timing,
Found a wire broken near pcm in engine bay. This truck attracts rodents,I've had 5 attacks on Main body harness going into firewall ,
Thank you I will try that when I get the chance to work on it this weekend I did put a brand new sensor on because my old ligit broke it 2 on its own
I'll give my wiring a check it ran as of 2 months ago before I dig into some issues I was wanting to fix mostly top end stuff
If you need access to electrical prints you can find them here for 22.00/3day
so it ran, you did "top end work" and now it doesnt run?
sounds like a better description of what all you were doing is in order
If you pulled the timing cover off did you remove the crank trigger wheel? And if so did you remember to put it back on?
npe no timing work was done
I pulled my intake off and my driver valve cover I was replacing gaskets that were leaking, I also fixed all the vacuum lines that broke, new coil packs plug wires, and plugs, and resealed the injectors.
Do you have another key you can try? I've heard of the PATS going nuts randomly before.
Have you checked all fuses both engine and cabin,
Since work was done to cause no start,
It's something you did wrong or something that happened during work,
I'm guilty of many dumb things happening
Since work was done to cause no start,
It's something you did wrong or something that happened during work,
I'm guilty of many dumb things happening
Long shot however I had something similar and turned out to be the MAF. Check that and the associated wiring.
-Daniel
-Daniel
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