Plugs

[go2cdmb]

Im gonna change the plugs this weekend.

1. I didn't see anything in the FAQ as far as any tips/torquespecs/antisieze... Is that somewhere?

2. If I'm ported and pullied on a predator, should I be using an Iridium or just a regular plug? It's an 04. Thanks!!

 

[mu22stang]

1. linky

2. Search, there are millions of threads on this. I use NGK TR6IX gapped stock at .039", but I have a stock Eaton with a stock pulley on my '04. Your gap will need to be reduce if you are running more boost.

 

[go2cdmb]

Thanks man. I must be searching wrong. Go figure LOL, I though it was a simple task... Ahhh, Im dumbbbbb lol. I used show threads and show posts and get a bunch of useless crap. So I should use those plugs just gapped diff?

 

[03cobra#694]

Thanks man. I must be searching wrong. Go figure LOL, I though it was a simple task... Ahhh, Im dumbbbbb lol. I used show threads and show posts and get a bunch of useless crap. So I should use those plugs just gapped diff?

Try here,white arrow.

 

[bigmoose]

Im gonna change the plugs this weekend.

1. I didn't see anything in the FAQ as far as any tips/torquespecs/antisieze... Is that somewhere?

2. If I'm ported and pullied on a predator, should I be using an Iridium or just a regular plug? It's an 04. Thanks!!

just ignore the above clowns. they love to say search to get their post count up without providing any useful information. all your search is gonna reveal is more posts like this saying search.

I'm not sure of the TQ spec, i just do it by feel. I would run an NGK 7 series plug, either TR7IX or BR7EF, i've run both and saw no differences between them. The BR7EF is just their copper v-power, and under $2 each. i gapped my plugs a 0.032 since i'm running a 2.76/#4 setup. if you are running less you probably could go 0.034 with no problems.

Make sure you do the plugs first thing in the morning when the engine is cold since the heads are aluminum. there will be less of a chance of stripping the threads. I've used anti-seeze on every plug and lugnut i've ever changed on all my vehicles with no problems what-so-ever. You'll love the stuff when you have to change your plugs again down the road.

 

[SLEEPERSTATUS]

Try here,white arrow.

:lol1:

 

[03cobra#694]

I wasn`t being a clown,I was showing him the search thread option.

 

[mu22stang]

A clown? Even though I searched for the thread explaining any and everything he needs to know, including opinions, on using antiseize. My post #4 on that thread gives great advice on installing plugs with anti-seize, more detailed than your post actually. Not to mention, I gave valuble advice on a good set of plugs and the correct information concerning a smaller gap with higher boost. You indeed gave better advice on the recommended gap, but my experience ends at stock boost. If there is one time you can tell someone to search, it's for information on plugs - there are HUNDREDS of threads on the subject. I did the research on the valuble information that's out there when I made my choice, why shouldn't he? I'm glad you know so much about me trying to increase my post count, yet I always strive to provide information to any and everyone with what knowledge I have. Please SEARCH my posts and try to find one that is there purely to add to my post count.

 

[bigmoose]

A clown? Even though I searched for the thread explaining any and everything he needs to know, including opinions, on using antiseize. My post #4 on that thread gives great advice on installing plugs with anti-seize, more detailed than your post actually. Not to mention, I gave valuble advice on a good set of plugs and the correct information concerning a smaller gap with higher boost. You indeed gave better advice on the recommended gap, but my experience ends at stock boost. If there is one time you can tell someone to search, it's for information on plugs - there are HUNDREDS of threads on the subject. I did the research on the valuble information that's out there when I made my choice, why shouldn't he? I'm glad you know so much about me trying to increase my post count, yet I always strive to provide information to any and everyone with what knowledge I have. Please SEARCH my posts and try to find one that is there purely to add to my post count.

missed that, sorry. its just annoying when everyone keeps saying search; people should just answer the question. Everyone who actually searches knows how much the search sucks on this site.

 

[mu22stang]

missed that, sorry. its just annoying when everyone keeps saying search; people should just answer the question. Everyone who actually searches knows how much the search sucks on this site.

Yeah, I hate it if that's all posters put, too. I tried to provide as much info as I could, but so many variables are involved in plugs that an hour two of searching may be the best thing. The search isn't so bad, but it's definately not intuitive. Sorry for the rant, but I don't believe Brad or I are the clowns you speak of. :beer:

 

[jumperjack]

missed that, sorry. Its just annoying when everyone keeps saying search; people should just answer the question. Everyone who actually searches knows how much the search sucks on this site.

+1

 

[metaman]

The TR7Ix will give you better detonation resistance and also it will not fowl on you. I run them at .038 with a 2.8 pulley and they are awesome. Even though they are one heat range colder than most people run at your power levels and mine, they have performed great. The only risk in going to a colder plug is that the plug might carbon foul. It seems as though these Tr7ix are hot enough to prevent this even on the rich predator tune. I ran the predator tune on mine with these plugs for over 3k. I pulled them to check to see if they where carbonated and they where perfect.

I would suggest that you get access to an air gun and blow out the holes before you pull the plugs out. You never know if there might be a grain of sand sitting down there waiting to drop into the cylinder and scratch the cylinder wall. I all ways blow out the holes first.

I have never used anti size on my plugs and have never had any trouble getting them out. Some guys like to use a very tiny amount, it probably does not hert anything, but it is not nessesary. I guess it might help you get more accurate torque readings if you are using a torque wrench to snug them up.

I have a torque wrench, but I have never used it on the plugs. My technique is to use a long extension. It needs to be longer than normal. Maby 2-3 feet long. I also make sure to use an actual spark plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plug. It is to easy to drop the plug into the hole if you do not do this. That is bad news for the plug upon impact. I use the long extension for two reasons. One because I am tall and bending over at the waist to change plugs makes my back soar. Two is because it enables me to finger tight the plugs when I am putting them back in. I like to get them all finger tight using just the extension and no wrench. I look down the shaft of the extension and this gives me good aim so I am centered up over the holes. I turn the extension nice and slow. This way if there is the slightest binding (cross threaded) then I will feel it in my finger tips before anything gets stripped out.

Once they are all good to go at finger tight, I go through and snug them with the wrench. The torque on these is only like 20-25 ft. lbs. which is nothing. It would be very easy to over torque them. In order to avoid over torquing them I guess the best way is a torque wrench. I just feel it out. I place my palm over the axis point of the wrachet and just turn until snug past finger tight. It is usually about 1/8th turn. Don't allow yourself to use the mechanical advantage of grabbing hold of the axis point of the wrench with one hand and pulling on the other end of the handle with the other. This would give you way more than 20-25 ft lbs.

 

[go2cdmb]

just ignore the above clowns. they love to say search to get their post count up without providing any useful information. all your search is gonna reveal is more posts like this saying search.

I'm not sure of the TQ spec, i just do it by feel. I would run an NGK 7 series plug, either TR7IX or BR7EF, i've run both and saw no differences between them. The BR7EF is just their copper v-power, and under $2 each. i gapped my plugs a 0.032 since i'm running a 2.76/#4 setup. if you are running less you probably could go 0.034 with no problems.

Make sure you do the plugs first thing in the morning when the engine is cold since the heads are aluminum. there will be less of a chance of stripping the threads. I've used anti-seeze on every plug and lugnut i've ever changed on all my vehicles with no problems what-so-ever. You'll love the stuff when you have to change your plugs again down the road.

Yeah, I know what ya mean. I got in on this pretty late though and it seems everyone meant well ;-) Hey dude, 've been to your area! Extremely BEAUUTIFUL. I went to Block Iland too. Good stuff. Thanks for your help. So it's not a big deal if I use the Iridium or the BR7EF ones? What I'd just need to change the cheaper ones more often?

 

[go2cdmb]

The TR7Ix will give you better detonation resistance and also it will not fowl on you. I run them at .038 with a 2.8 pulley and they are awesome. Even though they are one heat range colder than most people run at your power levels and mine, they have performed great. The only risk in going to a colder plug is that the plug might carbon foul. It seems as though these Tr7ix are hot enough to prevent this even on the rich predator tune. I ran the predator tune on mine with these plugs for over 3k. I pulled them to check to see if they where carbonated and they where perfect.

I would suggest that you get access to an air gun and blow out the holes before you pull the plugs out. You never know if there might be a grain of sand sitting down there waiting to drop into the cylinder and scratch the cylinder wall. I all ways blow out the holes first.

I have never used anti size on my plugs and have never had any trouble getting them out. Some guys like to use a very tiny amount, it probably does not hert anything, but it is not nessesary. I guess it might help you get more accurate torque readings if you are using a torque wrench to snug them up.

I have a torque wrench, but I have never used it on the plugs. My technique is to use a long extension. It needs to be longer than normal. Maby 2-3 feet long. I also make sure to use an actual spark plug socket with the rubber insert to hold the plug. It is to easy to drop the plug into the hole if you do not do this. That is bad news for the plug upon impact. I use the long extension for two reasons. One because I am tall and bending over at the waist to change plugs makes my back soar. Two is because it enables me to finger tight the plugs when I am putting them back in. I like to get them all finger tight using just the extension and no wrench. I look down the shaft of the extension and this gives me good aim so I am centered up over the holes. I turn the extension nice and slow. This way if there is the slightest binding (cross threaded) then I will feel it in my finger tips before anything gets stripped out.

Once they are all good to go at finger tight, I go through and snug them with the wrench. The torque on these is only like 20-25 ft. lbs. which is nothing. It would be very easy to over torque them. In order to avoid over torquing them I guess the best way is a torque wrench. I just feel it out. I place my palm over the axis point of the wrachet and just turn until snug past finger tight. It is usually about 1/8th turn. Don't allow yourself to use the mechanical advantage of grabbing hold of the axis point of the wrench with one hand and pulling on the other end of the handle with the other. This would give you way more than 20-25 ft lbs.

Thanks bro, Really thorough of ya too. Good sh*t. What kind of numbers are ya makin rear wheel?

 

[go2cdmb]

A clown? Even though I searched for the thread explaining any and everything he needs to know, including opinions, on using antiseize. My post #4 on that thread gives great advice on installing plugs with anti-seize, more detailed than your post actually. Not to mention, I gave valuble advice on a good set of plugs and the correct information concerning a smaller gap with higher boost. You indeed gave better advice on the recommended gap, but my experience ends at stock boost. If there is one time you can tell someone to search, it's for information on plugs - there are HUNDREDS of threads on the subject. I did the research on the valuble information that's out there when I made my choice, why shouldn't he? I'm glad you know so much about me trying to increase my post count, yet I always strive to provide information to any and everyone with what knowledge I have. Please SEARCH my posts and try to find one that is there purely to add to my post count.

Thanks bro. I was actually using the TOp search in the red strip lol. So thanks

 

[go2cdmb]

Why do some go with the 6 and some with the 7?

 

[03cobra#694]

Why do some go with the 6 and some with the 7?

The 7`s are 1 step colder than the 6`s.Most likely higher boost applications are running the 7`s.

 

[VincodeY]

would it hurt to run the 7 when all you need is the 6?

 

[Jomo1994z71]

would it hurt to run the 7 when all you need is the 6?

I run the 7s to keep the cylinder temps down...I have run both the Tr6s and the Tr7ixs...I prefer the Tr7ixs...I run around 12-13 pounds of boost...