Post subframe install

FAsnakes

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PhillyCobra said:
Yeah, that's a body or chassis lift. For SFC install you want a drive on lift that places the weight on the wheels.

Yea, I remember Eric talking about that. Would it be possible to start the install in the Pit and finish up on the body lift?
 

FordFreak

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I don’t know what the problem is here, but I have installed countless subframe connectors this way. I tack and partially weld the subframe connecters in the pit. Then I move the car over to the body lift and lift the car up by the sf connectors right underneath the tq box and front frame rail. That way I can get better welds on there and get to all the locations.
The creaks aren’t guaranteed to go away and most of them in these cars are in the suspension and rack bushings. Also, verts aren’t going to have the same rigidity as coupes.
 

Rootus

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When I had my '99 Cobra convertible, I had MM subframe connectors installed, and I didn't really notice a huge difference. Just no way around it, the convertible is a wet noodle and subframe connectors are going to have trouble changing that.

On the other hand, I just did custom subframe connectors (beefier than MM by a fair amount) on my '03 Cobra coupe last week, and it's a night & day difference. All the creaks & rattles went away, the turn in on corners is sharper, and it feels much more predictable in the corner.

So I think what you're experiencing is par for the course for a convertible.
 

FAsnakes

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FordFreak said:
I don’t know what the problem is here, but I have installed countless subframe connectors this way. I tack and partially weld the subframe connecters in the pit. Then I move the car over to the body lift and lift the car up by the sf connectors right underneath the tq box and front frame rail. That way I can get better welds on there and get to all the locations.
The creaks aren’t guaranteed to go away and most of them in these cars are in the suspension and rack bushings. Also, verts aren’t going to have the same rigidity as coupes.
I wouldn't say there is a problem here, I'm completely satisfied with my experience. I intend to continue to have you work on my car and would recommend you to others.

I'll be ordering the MMSTB and making an appointment with you.

I just didn't know what to expect from the sub's is all. Keep in mind, I was a not so intelligent machine gunner and now I'm a technology manager. All of this is foreign knowledge to me.

I would like to say one more thing:
This guy Eric@Pfab installed the subs at a discounted price, waited for me to get off work (he finished the job at about 10:30PM), and called me the day after to make sure I was satisfied.

That's some fu*ken good service.
 

JPIStang

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Ok, I have purchased and had installed by the same people, MM full length subs on two cars. My old '00 GT coupe and my new '04 Cobra vert.

On the coupe they were the greatest thing since sliced bread.

On the 'vert, it's hardly ANY improvment AT ALL.

I am trying to figure out if the Global West ladder subs or the HR ladder (with the triangles like Kenny Brown but thicker walled tubing) are going to stiffen up the car any better than the MM full length's.

I wish I could get someone with the ladder system on a 'vert to jack up the corner of the car and see if the door panel misaligns or not. Mine will still misalign to the tune of a 1/8th of an inch between the back of the door and the quarter panel.

I certanly don't want to put stiffer springs on the car unless I can solve (or significantly reduce) the amount of body twist.
 

golstho

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PhillyCobra said:
I felt:

Much more precise steering reaction, particularly when cornering hard.

Much less creaking in dash and rear seat area when going over bumps and driveway lips.

A firmer, but more controlled reaction to bumps and dips-- perehaps a little more input into car, but more immediate damping of body movement.

The results were very clear-- not subtle.

+2
 

Venimus03

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Does anyone sell bolt in SFC's? I am unsure about welding them on..........
 

mblgjr

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Venimus03 said:
Does anyone sell bolt in SFC's? I am unsure about welding them on..........

Don't even bother with bolting them in. The floorpan isn't thick enough/tough enough to sustain the stresses of the connectors efficiently. You won't get the effects of what you paid for.
 

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