Running HOT after rebuild..

another_hero

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Ok here is the problem motor rebuilt 1600 miles ago and has been running fine with no problems, today been driving it all day and noticed that IC pump stopped working. So I pulled it off and cleaned it and it started working again, I let car set and run and it started running hot. I let it cool down and drove it home as I was turning in my drive the car shut off. I let it set for a few and started it back up and it was ticking and still hot. Any ideas on what it could be, we didn't bother anything dealing with the engine coolant at all. Car ran fine b4 we cleaned IC pump :shrug:
 
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another_hero

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Come on guys put something out there to look for or try. I know the IC pump coolant has nothing to do with engine coolant that's why I don't understand why it would run hot after cleaning pump.
 
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You check to make sure your fan works properly? Did you look under the car to make sure you still have your radiator air deflector on there?
 

another_hero

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That's yes to both questions. Is there a time limit on how long you burp IC pump, lol friend said could it be that you didn't get all the air out when you burpped pump and air is gettin in the SC and causing it to get air pockets and that's what's causing it to run hot :bash:
 

Jimmysidecarr

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Did you also relieve rad pressure, re-tighten cap and then check the coolant level in the cross-over tube burp plug?

You may have air still in the system, it is not uncommon for multiple heat cycles and burp/fills being needed to remove all the air.
 

another_hero

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This is what we did from start to finish...we took hose off pump (from side) drained water, then took off other hose on the end, cleaned pump put hoses back on put coolant in tank jumped pump added more water let run for 2 mins, then started car let run for a few mins and then car started running hot. Did not relieve rad pressure, or re-tighten cap nor check the coolant level in the cross-over tube burp plug. Also it is blowing coolant out the from under the rad cap.
 
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Jimmysidecarr

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This is what we did from start to finish...we took hose off pump (from side) drained water, then took off other hose on the end, cleaned pump put hoses back on put coolant in tank jumped pump added more water let run for 2 mins, then started car let run for a few mins and then car started running hot. Did not relieve rad pressure, or re-tighten cap nor check the coolant level in the cross-over tube burp plug. Also it is blowing coolant out the from under the rad cap.

OK first things first.
The I/C system is 100% completely separate from the engine cooling system and would best be discussed 100% separately going forward.

Buy a new rad cap and then dress the top of the rad tank opening to make sure it is completely flat.(they can and do warp if the engine pukes) If after passing a fine flat file over it there are no high or low spots visible you can install the new cap.

Have you looked up, down loaded and printed the burp fill procedure for the Terminator engine cooling system?

If not do it now.(check the FAQs sticky)

Do the burp/fill procedure and check at the burp plug after the engine cools after each drive cycle for a few days of driving. IE: before driving to work, before driving at lunch, before driving home... etc.

Top fluid only at the burp plug and only when the rad cap is sealed closed.

If you open the rad cap while the burp plug is removed you allow coolant to move into the rad res and over fill it and at the same time you let air into the crossover tube.
 
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