New Motor Ran Fine, Now Like Crap. Running Rich.

[da2k17]

So my new motor was running fine, just hit 2000 miles yesterday and poof the problems pile up.

first off i realized that the new pcv valve that i got when the motor went back together months ago isnt the right one, as theres no diaphragm. when i realized this i replaced it with the original which was working fine but i replaced so many other things i figured id just get a new one of these.

at the same time as this was taking place the car started ticking. it seems like its on the head on the drivers side, awesome right?

now when driving the car my idle AF is around 11 and the car sures from like 500 to 1200 rpms. start driving it goes to 9.8 it starts breaking up. once it hits 3000 rpms it slowly comes up to 10.8 to maybe 11. go wot and 10.8 it was tuned to 11.7 to 12.0.

so now i figured the functioning pcv is messing with air flow since it got tuned with the one that is essentially a 90 * elbow, i put that back in hoping it would correct the AF issue but nope.

so now im thinking the tick is messing with the AF, so how can that be possible? something is obviously affecting the amount of air going into the engine, what could be related to the tick that could do that? my tuner said the car was on closed loop so the car couldnt affect the tune on its own.

i think the ticking is a valve guide as it sounds just like the videos i heard. i never had any issues before the new motor, i did replace the valve guides with bronze ones when we put the cams in.

so i dont think the pcv thing is really affecting anything, more or less bad timing discovering it wasnt right. now my favorite part, nothing i mentioned is constant. the tick will go away for 30 min or so every once in a while and the af will do what i described above and then go back to normal, idleing 14ish driving 12 to 15 but floor it and still like low 11's. some times the tick and af issues are at the same time sometimes there not.:fm:

it kinda seems like something is messing with the tune, im going to try and clean the maf tomorrow. if its in closed loop that shouldn't matter though, right?

car has posi ported blower, je pistons, comp n20 cams, triple return, pullies, jlt ram air, sct 2400 maf.

so yea 10k+ in parts and it runs like shit. im not real happy, i took it to my engine builder and he said possibly a stuck rocker. he said if it were a valve guide id be getting black smoke but im not.

so im lost, any ideas?

 

[bigmoose]

Have you tried checking the basics? I would check the plugs first to get a better idea of what is happening. I would then try datalogging. Compare your fuel pressure and vacuum from the datalog to both actual mechanical readings. As you know the fuel rail pressure sensor on our cars are fragile, when they go they create a ton of different symptoms. the way i figured mine(besides the smell of fuel in the vacuum lines) is my datalogged vacuum was reading zero at idle and the fuel pressures were way off when compared to each other.

 

[Bruha]

Have you data logged it yet??

 

[da2k17]

checked some stuff, plugs were black but that was expected when AF is 9.5. found a broken vac line which cured most of the surgeing at idle but did nothing for anything else.

when i was running the car i noticed the IC pump stopped functioning, i hit the pump and it came back on. could my drop in AF be related to the car pulling timing in response to the IC pump not pumping and having super hot air going to the motor?

i almost positive the IC is messed up. i have a lot of white spray on the hodd and intake as if the IC tank cap keeps spraying out. it did it when we put the motor in and the pump got airlocked but now theres no reason for it to be doing that so im thinking the coolant is getting way too hot from the pump not working and it gets blowing out the cap.

also with how it keeps running good then bad, like i said earlier when i hit the pump it came back on. that may simulate driving and the pump being bounced around which would explain why sometimes its runs good ans sometimes it doesnt.

So anybody think my theory has any validity???

 

[da2k17]

anyone?

 

[prostkr]

You will need your tune tweaked if it was tuned with the wrong pcv valve in the first place. /Start with replacing the inter-cooler pump. After that I bet you will be good to go.

 

[da2k17]

got the new pump and the car runs better but its still not right. its still running rich but now its only on the passenger side, yes only one side is running rich. i wish i could post the picture of my plugs. 4 are completely covered in carbon, the drivers side is perfectly white just like when they went in. it looks like the plugs came out of different motors. i have no idea whats going on, my wideband is in the passenger side, the side thats going rich. its still doing it the same off and on.


im about ready to give up on it.... no one has any idea whats going on, my tuner told me to change my plugs again which i did and nothing changed so thats another $40 wasted.

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

Is your FRPS blown?
Allowing fuel to get in through the vacuum lines making it crazy rich?

Diluting your oil with fuel?(tick tick)

Buy two FRPS, put one on the car and one in the glove box.

 

[da2k17]

i guess thats a possibility, but why/how would it only be affecting one side of the motor?

 

[Jimmysidecarr]

i guess thats a possibility, but why/how would it only be affecting one side of the motor?

No clue, normally it wouldn't.

Bad PCM?:shrug:

Plugged passenger side cats?:shrug:

 

[da2k17]

i might have gotten it figured out. changed a few vac lines and replaced the front 02s. the o2 lines were exposed and melted on both sides. it still idles rough and is reading 10 AF when first started but after 3 to 5 min it smooths out and as soon as i start driving it jumps up to 13 to 16 while cruising. hasnt gone rich while driving yet and its been thorough 3 full heat cycles. it also feels like all 600+hp is there now instead of running like a beat dog.

ill keep yas posted....