HELP... Flushing Coolant System

[Red Poison]

I've read the only writeup that I could find in the "HOW TO" section, but it does me no good with absolutely no pictures (visual learner) and a bunch of names of parts that I have no clue what they are:nonono:

I'm installing the Even Flow mod and I already have the freeze plug out (forgot to drain the coolant system before I got started:dw: / no biggie) but I know I'm going to have to drain it before I cut into the hose up front.

I figured since I've gotta drain it, why not flush it.

Any help/pics/understandable directions?

 

[sweet88gt]

If you drained enough of the coolant via the freeze plug I think you may be low enough to go ahead and cut the pipe up front. If you think it may have fluid in the pipe you could take a wet/dry vac and suck some of the coolant thru the frreze plug.

You will have to add coolant to the system that it may not be needed to flush it. I chose not to because of the mess I made with not draining it and figured it would be ok for now. Maybe in a couple of years I will flush it out but until then I think you should be good to go.

 

[Lights of Speed]

if you really want to "FLUSH" your cooling system you will need a flush machine......

 

[Red Poison]

If you drained enough of the coolant via the freeze plug I think you may be low enough to go ahead and cut the pipe up front.

Ah, thank you... i remember your avatar from the writeups. Thanks for chiming in:beer:

See, I never took any fluid out through the freeze plug. When I popped the plug, it was at that moment when I saw fluid that I remembered I was suppose to drain it. So at that point I just tried to contain it from leaking out everywhere. I sat with it, and toweled up what ever slowly overflowed for about 5 mins, and then it stopped.

If i squeeze the hose up front, the fluid pours out, so I'm assuming if i cut the hose, its gonna come rushing out of there, and I was just trying to prevent making a mess.

The car has 45,000k and I figured what the hell, why not flush it so I know i wont have to for a while. I don't know if the original owner ever did. So I figured I would and forget about it.

 

[Red Poison]

if you really want to "FLUSH" your cooling system you will need a flush machine......

So its not as easy as the writeup said,

draining the fluid, running the car with a hose adding water to the system until the water comes out clear?

Is this something I should just pay someone, tuner/dealership to do?

 

[sweet88gt]

So its not as easy as the writeup said,

draining the fluid, running the car with a hose adding water to the system until the water comes out clear?

Is this something I should just pay someone, tuner/dealership to do?

Dont forget that coolant is somewhat toxic. The proper way is to recover the fluid that is being flushed. The proper way to do that is with special equipment.

I cant remember if after I made the mess if any coolant was in the pipe but get some towels and such and just go for it. You know what to expect so loosen the clamp to the hose and pry it off of there slowly. Put a pan to drain the fluid into underneath the hose and hope for the best. When you get the car started clean it and clean it well. Then after it is dry check for leaks. The coolant you do spill will not evaporate and will need to be cleaned.

 

[TermySnake]

it's not my (How to), i copied & paste it from a member, his screen name is NotoriousGT350

One way to do it is...
1) Drive the car up onto a ramp/lift or jack it up so that the front of the car is higher then the rear. Having the car lifted so that you have plenty of room to move around and work is a must.

2) Let the engine cool off completely.

3) Remove the de-gasser/coolant reservoir cap.

4) Remove the crossover pipe cap at the bung located near the S/C snout. You’ll need a 1/8” square socket adapter, this will fit in the square opening in the middle of the cap. Make sure you thoroughly clean the threads from the cap and bung without damaging the rubber o-ring gasket that is built into the cap.

5) Use a wide flat head screwdriver to open the radiator peacock. Smaller flat head screwdrivers might damage the soft plastic peacock. Make sure you have placed a drain pan under the peacock and let the radiator completely drain.

6) Once the radiator has drained, remove the hose that runs from the upper cross over pipe to the lower thermostat housing. Remove the clamp at the t-stat side only and pull the hose off the t-stat housing. Again, make sure you have a drain pan located under the hose until it drains completely.

7) Now remove the hose that runs from the lower radiator to the thermostat housing. Remove the clamp at the t-stat side only and pull the hose of the t-stat housing. Only a small amount of coolant will drain from this side because most of the coolant has already drained out of the radiator peacock and the hose from step #6. This may be a good time to change to a new or lower temp t-stat?

8) The S/C Cobra uses 6 gallons of coolant. Only half of this has been removed so far. The rest of it is located in the engine block and heater core. To get most of the old coolant out before the flush begins, you must locate and remove the engine block coolant plug located on the driver’s side. Please note that there are two engine block plugs but the one on the passenger side is hard to get to because of the position of the starter and passenger side engine mount. You’ll need a 17-mm socket and extension to reach the driver’s side plug. It’s best to look for it by crawling under the car behind the driver’s side front tire, look up at the side of the block in the direction of where the mid-pipe meets the exhaust manifold. You’ll see a brass fitting near some freeze plugs. Note that the brass plug is not flush to the block and a few threads and sealant are exposed. Once you remove this plug and drain this side of the block, make sure you thoroughly clean the threads and re-apply high temp sealant. Put the plug back in and tighten it up snuggly without over-tightening. Remember that the plug is brass and the block is iron, the last thing you want is that fitting to strip or crack and possibly leak.

9) Now that most of the coolant has drained (4 to 5 gallons), it’s time to flush the system. Make sure the radiator peacock has been closed and re-clamp the hose from step #6 to the thermostat housing. Keep the other hose from step # 7 off; this will allow water that is still in the system to cycle through the radiator and escape while the engine is being flushed.

10) Turn a water hose on a low pressure setting and start to fill the crossover pipe bung. Once it starts to over flow, start the car, turn on the heater full blast and monitor the water temperature and the color of the fluid that flows out of the lower radiator house. As long as you keep filling the system with water, the water temp should never get up to normal operating temperature. After about 10-15 minutes of flushing the system, catch and inspect the water that is escaping out of the lower radiator. If the water is clear, the system is thoroughly flushed, if it’s not clear and still has debris in it, continue the flushing procedure until the water is clear.

11) When the system is clear, open the peacock and remove the hose from step #6 again, all of the water from the front cooling system should now drain out. Any left over water (approx. 3 gallons) will be located in the engine block and heater core.

12) Close the peacock and re-clamp all the hoses that lead to the t-stat housing. The cooling system should now be all buttoned up with the exception of the de-gasser and crossover caps.

13) Fill the system with the appropriate amount of coolant and water. Personally, at this point I added 3 gallons of coolant for a 50/50 mix but this is personal preference and depends on your driving style and geographical location. First, fill up the de-gasser reservoir and the crossover bung until full, then start the car, turn on the heater full blast and bring the system up to normal operating temperature. While the car is running, the system will automatically burp out any air bubbles and may require additional coolant and water to be poured in. Once the system has leveled out and up to normal operating temperatures for about 10 minutes or so replace the de-gasser cap and replace the crossover cap. Do not over tighten the cap, if snugged up correctly, the built in o-ring on the cap does a great job of sealing the system.

14) Check for leaks and take the car for a nice 10-15 minute spin while monitoring the temperatures. Once you get back, check for leaks again and shut off the car. After it has cooled off again, re-check the fluid level in the de-gasser, chances are that you’ll need to add more coolant or water at this point.

15) Please note that the 03-04 Cobra cooling system holds a total of 6 gallons, approx. 3 gallons in the front radiator, hoses, housings, etc. and approx. 3 gallons in the block passages and heater core. Keep this in mind when trying to figure out the amount of water, coolant and additives you would like to run in your particular system. In addition, distilled water is better suited for your cooling system but the above procedures will utilize mostly tap water since approx. 3 gallons will stay in your system during the flush. In addition, I highly recommend additives like “40 Below” or “Water Wetter”. In order for these additives to work to their full potential, make sure you follow the directions of these additives in regards to your Water to Coolant mix. When it comes to choosing the proper type of coolant for your Cobra, go with your personal preference or follow Ford’s recommendations if you’re unsure!

 

[P49Y-CY]

two things are incorrect information in the above:

- cooling system holds 16.1 quarts (about 4 gallons) it does not hold 6 gallons

- crossover tube bleeder cap is 1/4 inch drive square, not 1/8 inch

fwiw :thumbsup:

 

[Red Poison]

Thats the write up I was talking about. See, I don't know what these things are nor do I know what they look like... so I'm reluctant to just start messing with stuff.

it's not my (How to), i copied & paste it from a member, his screen name is NotoriousGT350

One way to do it is...
1) Drive the car up onto a ramp/lift or jack it up so that the front of the car is higher then the rear. Having the car lifted so that you have plenty of room to move around and work is a must.

2) Let the engine cool off completely.

3) Remove the de-gasser/coolant reservoir cap.

4) Remove the crossover pipe cap at the bung located near the S/C snout. You’ll need a 1/8” square socket adapter, this will fit in the square opening in the middle of the cap. Make sure you thoroughly clean the threads from the cap and bung without damaging the rubber o-ring gasket that is built into the cap.

5) Use a wide flat head screwdriver to open the radiator peacock. Smaller flat head screwdrivers might damage the soft plastic peacock. Make sure you have placed a drain pan under the peacock and let the radiator completely drain.

6) Once the radiator has drained, remove the hose that runs from the upper cross over pipe to the lower thermostat housing. Remove the clamp at the t-stat side only and pull the hose off the t-stat housing. Again, make sure you have a drain pan located under the hose until it drains completely.

7) Now remove the hose that runs from the lower radiator to the thermostat housing. Remove the clamp at the t-stat side only and pull the hose of the t-stat housing. Only a small amount of coolant will drain from this side because most of the coolant has already drained out of the radiator peacock and the hose from step #6. This may be a good time to change to a new or lower temp t-stat?

8) The S/C Cobra uses 6 gallons of coolant. Only half of this has been removed so far. The rest of it is located in the engine block and heater core. To get most of the old coolant out before the flush begins, you must locate and remove the engine block coolant plug located on the driver’s side. Please note that there are two engine block plugs but the one on the passenger side is hard to get to because of the position of the starter and passenger side engine mount. You’ll need a 17-mm socket and extension to reach the driver’s side plug. It’s best to look for it by crawling under the car behind the driver’s side front tire, look up at the side of the block in the direction of where the mid-pipe meets the exhaust manifold. You’ll see a brass fitting near some freeze plugs. Note that the brass plug is not flush to the block and a few threads and sealant are exposed. Once you remove this plug and drain this side of the block, make sure you thoroughly clean the threads and re-apply high temp sealant. Put the plug back in and tighten it up snuggly without over-tightening. Remember that the plug is brass and the block is iron, the last thing you want is that fitting to strip or crack and possibly leak.

9) Now that most of the coolant has drained (4 to 5 gallons), it’s time to flush the system. Make sure the radiator peacock has been closed and re-clamp the hose from step #6 to the thermostat housing. Keep the other hose from step # 7 off; this will allow water that is still in the system to cycle through the radiator and escape while the engine is being flushed.

10) Turn a water hose on a low pressure setting and start to fill the crossover pipe bung. Once it starts to over flow, start the car, turn on the heater full blast and monitor the water temperature and the color of the fluid that flows out of the lower radiator house. As long as you keep filling the system with water, the water temp should never get up to normal operating temperature. After about 10-15 minutes of flushing the system, catch and inspect the water that is escaping out of the lower radiator. If the water is clear, the system is thoroughly flushed, if it’s not clear and still has debris in it, continue the flushing procedure until the water is clear.

11) When the system is clear, open the peacock and remove the hose from step #6 again, all of the water from the front cooling system should now drain out. Any left over water (approx. 3 gallons) will be located in the engine block and heater core.

12) Close the peacock and re-clamp all the hoses that lead to the t-stat housing. The cooling system should now be all buttoned up with the exception of the de-gasser and crossover caps.

13) Fill the system with the appropriate amount of coolant and water. Personally, at this point I added 3 gallons of coolant for a 50/50 mix but this is personal preference and depends on your driving style and geographical location. First, fill up the de-gasser reservoir and the crossover bung until full, then start the car, turn on the heater full blast and bring the system up to normal operating temperature. While the car is running, the system will automatically burp out any air bubbles and may require additional coolant and water to be poured in. Once the system has leveled out and up to normal operating temperatures for about 10 minutes or so replace the de-gasser cap and replace the crossover cap. Do not over tighten the cap, if snugged up correctly, the built in o-ring on the cap does a great job of sealing the system.

14) Check for leaks and take the car for a nice 10-15 minute spin while monitoring the temperatures. Once you get back, check for leaks again and shut off the car. After it has cooled off again, re-check the fluid level in the de-gasser, chances are that you’ll need to add more coolant or water at this point.

15) Please note that the 03-04 Cobra cooling system holds a total of 6 gallons, approx. 3 gallons in the front radiator, hoses, housings, etc. and approx. 3 gallons in the block passages and heater core. Keep this in mind when trying to figure out the amount of water, coolant and additives you would like to run in your particular system. In addition, distilled water is better suited for your cooling system but the above procedures will utilize mostly tap water since approx. 3 gallons will stay in your system during the flush. In addition, I highly recommend additives like “40 Below” or “Water Wetter”. In order for these additives to work to their full potential, make sure you follow the directions of these additives in regards to your Water to Coolant mix. When it comes to choosing the proper type of coolant for your Cobra, go with your personal preference or follow Ford’s recommendations if you’re unsure!

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

I would most definitely flush the system after you're done with the installation. Instead of opening the rad petcock just take apart the thermostat housing, this will give you a nice big exit for the water to flush out.

 

[Red Poison]

Can anyone offer/provide more descriptive detail or pics of these things that are being mentioned... I highlighted them in YELLOW above.

I would most definitely flush the system after you're done with the installation. Instead of opening the rad petcock just take apart the thermostat housing, this will give you a nice big exit for the water to flush out.

Thats what I was thinking... might as well flush it.
If I'm making that great exit for the flush, then where do I put the hose to add water?

 

[P49Y-CY]

red poison these dohc modular engines have a very specific method to refill the cooling system. if not followed, the chances of overheating are great. there is alot of info on this board, so too bad the search function is down.

largeorangefont (member here) once described the system as like an upside down horseshoe, with the thermostat at the bottom, and that helped me to understand it better. you must fill it at the opening in the crossover tube in addition to the resevoir, or you will only fill part of the system, and overheating will occur.

as others have said the only true way to reverse flush the system is with a vacuum fluid exchanger, but you can run a flush chemical and then replace the coolant without one, but unless you drain the block and heater core you will only get about 50% (2 gallons) of the coolant out at any given time. and that is by draining at the radiator petcock and the t-stat housing.

hope this helps, the procedure in post #7 is accurate except for a couple of items. the round bung in the crossover tube is right next to the supercharger.

 

[svtleen]

The above procedure is a bit over whelming for a person that has never flush a radiator. I use a method that is a lot more time consuming in days, but is simplier. I do this over a period of 2-3 days or it can be done in 1 long day. I just drain and fill at the radiator petcock over and over again flushing it out with a water hose for like 6-10 times. At every drain fill I would take it for an easy drive around the neighborhood to get the water flowing. Once I'm done i know there is some water left in my engine block so I would fill with 50/50 and run it for several days and drain it out and refill again with 50/50, hoping to get as much 50/50 into the block where the water is sitting.

A radiator flush at 'EZ Lube' is around $80 and buying 6 gallons of 50/50 is like $50 (and many hours), I'm not saving much but I know I flush it as much as I can instead of letting EZ Lube just suck all the old coolant and re-fill.

 

[Juruense]

Two things I never mess with on my Cobra are exhaust and coolant system.

 

[Jefe]

Just some FFT, the local Grease Monkey here charges $50 to flush your system...Might be worth it...

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

If I'm making that great exit for the flush, then where do I put the hose to add water?

You can pull the upper rad hose off and put water in to flush the radiator. Then block that passage where you took the hose off and put water in at the crossover tube plug or leave the plug in and put water in the pipe, whichever you like. This will flush out most of the rest of the system, it will take a while but eventually the water exiting the stat housing will become clear.

 

[wikedcobra312]

i took mine to ford and couldnt be happier, i think it cost me $60.00

 

[svtleen]

i took mine to ford and couldnt be happier, i think it cost me $60.00

No way...$60 at the dealership??? Did they flush your entire system by sucking every last drop of coolant out or did they just do a drain and fill. I never like going to the dealership because they have a lot of 'rape me' rape fees.:lol1:

 

[P49Y-CY]

oh, they'll do it for $60 (maybe 80-90 around here)... and, they will do it correctly using a vacuum fluid exchange machine...

but... they also refill it using the infamous "stop leak" pellets VC-6, which imo, is what settles in the system and causes further cooling system problems.

 

[Jomo1994z71]

My dealer wanted 160 dollars so I tackled it with my tuner, lol...