Anyone who's pulled their motor - help.

[MalcolmV8]

In past mustang's with 302's I've always used a lift plate bolted to the lower intake to pull the motor. I checked summit's website and I don't see one for the 4.6 motor. Where do you attach the chain(s) on the 4.6?

Also what do you do about the brake booster assembly that over laps the driver's side valve cover oh and the clutch cable. What's the correct way to remove both of those first?

I already have the transmission off. Just looking at getting the motor out the top. Also can the a/c system be unbolted and left alone on the side there? It looks like I don't have to discharge the system. Is that correct?

Am I missing anything else? I think that's it

I searched around and found a few threads with people pulling their motors but no details on how it was done.

Thanks guys
Malcolm

 

[TRBO VNM]

yes, unbolt the ac compressor. same with the power steering pump. enjoy the 1 bolt behind the ps line.

no need to remove the booster. the cable you can remove easy since it is disconnected from the tranny already. it is an 8mm bolt on the frame rail for the bracket and then unhook it from the quadrant. if you have the stock assembly at the firewall, you will need to remove the 2 bolts for that. with the motor out, it is a great time to install an aftermarket adjuster and quadrant.

I usually have the upper and lower intakes removed. I also have most of the front of the motor removed as well. all the access. crap. there is an upper inner ider I remove as well. then I use a one of the upper bell housing bolts in the block and then another bolt in the front where that upper inner idler was.

Ford does have some brackets (about 200 bucks each) that bolt to the heads. that is what ford usually does. I am having some made. then I don't need to take anything apart.

oh, the valve cover will clear the brake booster/master cylinder. just take your time and another set of hands helps.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the info. I'll start pulling stuff off tonight. How does the driver's side valve cover clear the brake booster? does the whole motor shift over to the passenger's side as you lift it out?

 

[boosted2000si]

There are 2 holes I used, and what I think ford uses based on their service manual, on each side of the head.

On the drivers side its in the front kinda near where the battery is located, and right above the exhaust manifold Its in the opposite positing on the other head, so its in the back. I had to get the bolt in the rear while being under the car.

Click that link in my thread, it may help some.

 

[NeverFastEngh]

I take it out the bottom. LOTS LOTS easier. I did it before i had my lift too. Just made a palley for the k member and used an engine lift on the shock towers to raise it up. Was very easy.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Made a little progress tonight.
Tranny was already pulled, got bell housing, clutch, and starter motor all out.
Midpipe removed.
Battery and battery tray for some extra space up there.
Intake tube and throttle body, plenum all out.
Hopefully over the weekend I can get the hood off, coolant drained and other misc stuff.

 

[MalcolmV8]

OK here's what I started with

Hood off ready to go

The start of it all

All that cooling stuff removed

Everything's pulled off and out the way by this point. Last view of car before I take the jack stands out and lower so I can get the engine lift in place.

Woo Hoo it's out

Empty engine bay

Few motor shots. Notice head cooling mod in this one

Next comes the tear down. Fun fun.

 

[boosted2000si]

Sweet, you used those holes I mentioned. It tears down pretty quick, just make sure to label everything.

I was surprised at how easy everything turned out to be.

 

[MalcolmV8]

I sure did, those bolt holes worked out pretty good.

 

[MalcolmV8]

OK started with the tear down.

Same piston other side

That was piston number 4. The only one I've pulled out so far. I didn't want to get them all out so quick because I wasn't sure if the machine shop is going to reuse rod bearings and crank bearings and I need to some how mark them from location and orientation etc.? I guess not with a hammer and stamp or electric engraver but maybe a paint pen?

Thanks guys
Malcolm

 

[boosted2000si]

Never reuse the bearings.


How is the block looking?

 

[MalcolmV8]

block doesn't have any scores but it is a different color on the bottom side where the piston is most damaged. The cylinder is darker in that area. Since there are no scores or scratches is it possible to just do that cross hatch honing and put factory sized piston and rings or is that something only a machine shop can determine after measuring it all?

So if rod and crank bearings are to be replaced do I have to care about which rod cap goes with which cylinder? and which way around it was on when taking it off?

From reading various threads on this site it seems aftermarket pistons are the way to go so I'll start looking for a set. Do you guys just get them from summit racing or what's a good source?
Factory ford rod and main bearings? I probably can't order those yet in case the machine shop has to machine the crank any right? They mentioned having to do a line bore if necessary.

Thanks for any info guys.

 

[boosted2000si]

Take your finger nail and try to scratch any marks in the block. If your nail gets hung up in any you will need to have it bored out. If your nail runs smooth across any marks you can work with just a hone.

You need to make sure you keep the rod caps to the specific rods, but the order in which the rods go back in the block doesnt really matter.

There is no way to tell if you will require a line bore unless you take the bottom end completely apart, which I would to save the money from paying the machine shop to do it. If all your mains are in good shape, use the finger nail method, then you are good to go and will not need a line bore. If one is scored or messed up you will then need a line bore, and will need larger bearings.

You dont have to use OE Ford bearings. I used clevite main and rod bearings. I think clevite makes them for ford but I am not sure. I just think there will be a heavy tax to order the bearing at ford.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks I'll run my nail over the bores when I get all the pistons out. I did that briefly last night in the #4 cylinder that I've already removed the piston and I couldn't feel anything at all.

I will take the crank out myself to save the machine shop costs. They told me it would be $350 to re-install the crank because they put the main bearings back without the crank and measure inside diameter and then measure crank. He said they make sure they get that to .001 clearance I think he said. I assume that process involves some machining of the crank to get it exact? I don't know for sure.
That $350 also included assembly of the rods and pistons. Basic short block assembly I suppose you'd call it. Not sure if that's worth the money or not.
I do want the motor done right as I don't plan on breaking it again

As for rod caps what I meant was do I have to worry about which way around the cap goes on? for example the #4 piston rod cap I took off, I could flip it around and put it on the other way. I noticed there's a key inside the rod cap which prevents the bearing from moving side to side. The key on the top half of the rod and the key in the cap appear to be on opposite sides of each other. Anyways I just wanted to see if it was important to know which way around the rod cap was installed. Like which side of the rod cap faced the front of the motor.

I had called a machine shop a couple weeks ago or so because I had a feeling it was a piston and here's what they told me.

$200 bore and hone block with torque plates
$125 to surface the decks
$75 ~ $125 to line bore
$75 to surface heads
$500 to $700 for a set of pistons
$350 to assemble short block
$45 to polish crank
$175 to $200 to balance crank

I really have no idea how much of that is required etc. I just sort of take their word on it. Do those prices seem reasonable?

Oh and I said Ford for bearings because I had planned on placing an order with Tousley Ford (on this site) for gaskets etc. since they give a discount and figured I could get the bearings at the same time. I'll check around though.

Oh yeah what about those head bolts? are those one time use bolts that I need to replace?

Thanks again
Malcolm

 

[TRBO VNM]

you have it apart. I would do head studs. and I would not reuse the bolts. they are a torq to yield.

 

[MalcolmV8]

OK if they are torque to yield then I have to replace. What's the advantage of using studs with nuts on top instead of the factory style bolts?

 

[TRBO VNM]

stronger

 

[MalcolmV8]

Stronger how? I mean do people have head bolt failures? or is there an issue or reason to swap to studs?
Do the studs require any mods to make it work or do you just turn them in?

Thanks

 

[boosted2000si]

It depends on what your budget is honestly. I dont think you will require all that work to get the engine back up and running, but its also all good work. You wouldnt go wrong having it done, but its how much you want to spend. I didnt take mine to the machine shop at all and have very little in the rebuild. If I was in your position I would bet all new bearings, pistons, rings, headgaskets, head studs and toss it back together. You will need to hone out the block and set the rings, but if you have gone this far with it there is no reason you cant do the rest. Its all about reading the directions and taking your time. Its not that hard at all.

The rod caps go with the keys on the same side, and the SVT mark on the side facing the front of the block.

 

[MalcolmV8]

Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I realize some of you work on cars for a living and really know this stuff so I pay attention and hopefully learn from you guys

As for the machine shop I'd really rather not spend a fortune. I mean if there's work required then absolutely I'll take out the savings or what ever I have to do as I don't want an unreliable POS but at the same time I don't wanna blow cash for nothing.

I got all 8 pistons out tonight. That very first one I took out, #4, was by far the worst. All others had their teflon worn off but only #4 was damaged a little on the piston. The second compression ring is actually bonded into the piston and doesn't move.

So I ran my finger nail across the cylinder and I can't feel anything at all. Even though it changes color where it wore the teflon off the pistons.
So do I get a honing tool that I put in my drill and hone the cylinders myself? Does the crank need to be removed so it doesn't get any metal dust on it or in it's bearings? because otherwise I'm thinking I could just leave the crank in there and not touch it. Probably a good idea it comes out and as you said earlier don't reuse bearings so new main bearings too.

Another thing is the machine shop said he'd balance my crank to the new pistons I get, what ever they may be. Any merit to that? because if I just order a set of after market pistons and put them in obviously my crank won't be balanced to it.

Another interesting thing is that on the crank itself where the rods where it almost seems like there are very fine lines I can barely feel with my finger nail. The rod bearings however look brand new and not a mark or line on them. Not sure if this is normal machining of the crank or if I should have those journals polished out.

Oh and what about surface decking? machine shop said to deck head gasket surface of block and the heads themselves. Is that just good practice but probably not required?

I do want the engine to be stout and last. I just don't know enough about this stuff to know if I really need this work or not. Money is tight but I'll do what I have to, to make it right.

Thanks again guys
Malcolm