2013 GT with new Paxton and Lund Tune (Dyno Printout)

[hirting]

Hi Everyone,

I just finalized my tune with Lund late last week, so I decided to take the car for a Dyno run at a local performance shop in Denver and see what kind of numbers the car puts out at 5280 feet above sea level.

I was pleasantly surprised and cannot thank Team Beefcake (Terry) and Lund (Jon) enough for getting the car to where it is at today.

Let me know what you all think!

Thanks,

Walt

 

[bunits19714]

Not bad with out headers, is this altitude corrected? I see your running a 3.6 pulley what psi does that equate to at your elevation? And that torgue curve or lack of is flat as hell - only varies 30 some ft lbs from 4200-7200- that is pretty decent.

 

[Casper cobra]

how much PSI

 

[DaBigBone]

Solid numbers especially with that altitude

 

[hirting]

Thanks, I was pretty happy with the results. I am not sure what PSI yet. I have a boost gauge arriving today and will be installing it this coming weekend.

 

[hirting]

I will post the PSI after I install my boost gauge. I don't think the dyno is altitude corrected but I don't know for certain. I will ask the next time I am at the shop.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Very nice, hows the car after driving it for awhile now?

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[hirting]

Very nice, hows the car after driving it for awhile now?

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It is driving really well, like stock around town but when you drop the hammer the car hunkers down and hauls. Definitely lots of power when you need it! I am so glad I had the 3:31's installed. Perfect for road course work.

Question for you that you might easily be able to help me with.... I bought a Roush boost gauge but have a couple of questions on connecting it. I want to get it right the first time so I figure I will ask. There seem to be a number of ways to connect and here is what I am planning. I will tap into the boost line going to the BOV for the boost reading. For wiring, I want white light on in the day and blue on at night. To accomplish this I will hook two wires into the light switch for dimming and blue light and ground wire to engine ground, and one wire to the 12v accessory wire on the wiring harness under the dash for the white light. My question is, what wire in the wiring harness for 12v accessory? Any suggestions for a 2013 GT?

Thanks,

Walt

 

[GBCoyote]

I ran a add-a-fuse deal to my passenger side floor board fuse box. I found one that only turned on with ignition, and wasn't too important incase it popped a fuse.

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

It is driving really well, like stock around town but when you drop the hammer the car hunkers down and hauls. Definitely lots of power when you need it! I am so glad I had the 3:31's installed. Perfect for road course work.

Question for you that you might easily be able to help me with.... I bought a Roush boost gauge but have a couple of questions on connecting it. I want to get it right the first time so I figure I will ask. There seem to be a number of ways to connect and here is what I am planning. I will tap into the boost line going to the BOV for the boost reading. For wiring, I want white light on in the day and blue on at night. To accomplish this I will hook two wires into the light switch for dimming and blue light and ground wire to engine ground, and one wire to the 12v accessory wire on the wiring harness under the dash for the white light. My question is, what wire in the wiring harness for 12v accessory? Any suggestions for a 2013 GT?

Thanks,

Walt

Correct as GBcoyote stated the best way is to do an add a fuse on a fuse on the passenger side fuse box.

 

[hirting]

I ran a add-a-fuse deal to my passenger side floor board fuse box. I found one that only turned on with ignition, and wasn't too important incase it popped a fuse.

Excellent, thanks for the guidance!

Walter

 

[hirting]

OK, thanks for confirming. Sounds like the ideal way.

 

[Zandura99]

how did the Mishimoto mount work with the intercooler below? Did they both mount ok or did custom stuff have to ensue?

 

[hirting]

I had to "cusotmize". I ended up shaving the back of the front grill insert (where pony emblem is installed) in order to the oil cooler to fit up top and bumper cover could fit. It is snug, less than 1 mm clearance between oil cooler and intercooler. I am not to happy that I had to zip tie the oil cooler to the upper radiator support and the steel bumper but it is snug and seems to be holding just fine. On the plus side you cannot see the oil cooler unless you really look for it because it is black.

 

[Zandura99]

cool. I am thinking of going the Paxton route, but I do road race too and don't want to loose the oil cooler. Thanks for the advice!

 

[hirting]

cool. I am thinking of going the Paxton route, but I do road race too and don't want to loose the oil cooler. Thanks for the advice!

No problem, glad to help. I was in the same boat and did not want to loose the oil cooler. It is a tight fit but does work. Let me know if you want me to send you some pictures.

Walt

 

[truckstuff55]

cool. I am thinking of going the Paxton route, but I do road race too and don't want to loose the oil cooler. Thanks for the advice!

x2

It takes a little work to make the cooler fit but worth it to keep it in place. I ended up swapping the upper and lower cooler rad hoses and clocking the cooler about 180 as well as the lines to the block.

 

[hirting]

Here is the best pic I could get of the oil cooler from outside and within the grill. I wish I had taken them with the bumper cover off.:rollseyes

It is extremely difficult to see the oil cooler from the exterior.

 

[krhonn]

I also did the upper and lower rad hose swap on the oil cooler just like truckstuff55. It sure is a tight fit.


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[Brutal Metal]

Am I the only old fart that can't see the numbers? there too small for my eyes....