Bias Ply pressure and mix questions.

[RedVenom48]

Question here about bias plys. I have a set of 15x10 LMR SVE Drag wheels. Im thinking of switching to a set of bias ply ET Street R's. Size im looking at is 28x11.5-15LT. It will have a meaty sidewall to absorb the hit of a launch from my GT500. Im also thinking of a 28x11.5-15 ET slick. Car weight with me in it will be about 4020 pounds as well. Setup is only for the track and getting to and from the track, no street racing.

What is the lowest tire pressure you think i can run before the tire will slip on the rim? 20 psi seems to be the consensus for the track and my car weight.

Do i need to use a tube? ive heard conflicting information about tube need. Some run tubes, others do not.

I do not have front runners yet. Much as i would like them, an extra $700 for an entry level set is a bit much at the moment. Do any of you race wIth street radials up front and bias slicks in the rear? I know many advise against it, though ive read many race like that too. This would only be to get to the track, race at the track and head home.

All advice and comments welcomed

 

[Inittowinit]

I have the bias ply ET street R's on a 15x10 for my gt500. Like you stated, for track use only. I do drive with them and radials in the front to the track, race, then back home. About 30 mins each way to the track.

This setup can definitely be a little squirly, especially higher speeds and taking any corner on the street above 60mph. The rear end just feels light like it wants to move around.

I use 18-20psi while racing, and no tube. If you can somehow get the funds together for front runners, do it. If not just be cautious and go for it

 

[StrayBullitt]

Trial and error man, start high, go low. Draw your white mark to know if you're slipping the tire on the rim.

I think you only need tubes if you want to drill the rims and screw on the tires.

 

[RedVenom48]

Ive had a set of drag radials so low once (rookie error) that i got mad sway down the track.

From my understanding, no abrupt corrections and kinda just let the car do its thing. Groove alignment is important prior to staging right?

@Inittowinit, how are those bias ET street Rs doing with the car's weight? MT recommends stiff sidewall bias ply for cars over 3000 lbs. So far, only 1 or two ET Drag slicks meet the criteria, with the 28x11.5-15LT being a soft wall.

 

[rotor_powerd]

If you're going to have a radial up front, make sure it's a skinny. Full size radials in the front with bias ply in the rear is downright unsafe IMO.


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[Thump_rrr]

I have tried several different drag tires.
(17") factory wheels
BFG Drag Radials

(15") Bogart RT

M/T ET Street Radial (old version)
M/T ET Street Bias Ply
Hoosier Stiff Wall Bias Ply slicks.

In all of the above cases I was using my 275/40R18" Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's on the front.

In my case the radials were the only tires that didn't allow the rear end to wander down the track.

With either of the Bias Ply tires the rear end would wander left and right and if it wandered too far you had to keep yourself from lifting too quickly while driving through it.

I probably did over 3,000 runs in 4 years.

If all goes well I will go back to the track near the end of the year but this time I will be going back on Radials if the 325/50R15 will fit without rubbing.

 

[RedVenom48]

just found a front runner rim I might be interested in. much cheaper than the SVE drag front rim AND DOT rated for street use too:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/681290/10002/-1

Ill have to get wheel spacers to make them hub centric and ditch the center cap but for $122 bucks, that I can swing.

Front runner tires on the other hand.... good gods are those expensive!