Custom Cam Install this Fall (Pics, Vids, Dyno, Todd Warren)

Intervention302

Intervention302

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I think I'll be in the range of 110-113 / 118-120 for centerlines.

My cams aren't as aggressive as your set

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SVT_Troy

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MalcolmV8 said:
Basically when I started out with my Comp Cams 106460 (what everyone calls stage 3 cams), I had them degreed like this initially.

View attachment 1446194

Notice the 8 degrees of overlap. Of course at the time neither I or Todd had any idea about the boost bypass actuator issue.

I then went with slightly smaller cams thinking that was my issue. The degreeing of the cams was also a little more conservative with only 0.5 degrees overlap. Still suffered the same horrible drivability issues.

View attachment 1446195

You soon learn to become proficient at re-degreeing and swapping cams in the engine bay. Pretty quickly your nights turn into this.

View attachment 1446196

View attachment 1446197

This is not my final setup but really close (don't have pic of final setup handy).
Notice the -4.5 degrees overlap. It's not much but it makes a huge difference. I mean like night and day for drivability. For your reference our stock cams have -35.5 degrees overlap.

View attachment 1446198

I could talk forever on the choices of why the ICL and ECL are where they are but I'm not a cam expert. I've done my share of tinkering and figuring stuff out for my exact setup. There is of course of many other variables and engine setups.
If truly interested you can do some reading on when to open and close the valves on a forced induction motor (supercharged with a PD blower specifically) and it'll make more sense to you.
BTW after figuring out the boost bypass actuator / valve issue with our cars and the need for vacuum down low I sent Todd a nice long message explanation since I'd worked with him on degreeing cams and even purchased a set from him trying to fix this. He's aware now and I'm sure will get you drivability if that's your goal.

Edit: I should give a huge amount of credit to Ed over at modfords. We chatted a lot and he gave me tremendous insight and guidance as I was going through this process and figuring out the cams and what to do with them. With his help I certainly figured out the problems and got to a solution much quicker.

Anyhow, back to your custom install....
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I got a pretty good headache trying to figure this out when I degreed my cams. My problems started with letting a shop degree my cams to specs i provided which they got terribly wrong. Anyway Ed was to the rescue and held my hand through the process. He truly is a great guy and just loves this stuff.
 
Intervention302

Intervention302

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NateDogg said:
Very nice! I did the same thing and love the sound. Still working on the tuning, but so far the drivability has been great. I do have higher IAT2 temps when ever the KC isn't on, but I'm in Florida and its always 90+ out.. Hoping for better results once it cools down.

I didn't see head studs listed... Are you planning on doing ARP studs?
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@MalcolmV8 You did ARP2000 right?

I was thinking of actually doing the studs possibly, even though my tuner said he's not personally seen one lift a head.

You do ARP2000 rod bolts as well? Somebody mentioned those to me today
 
MalcolmV8

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Intervention302 said:
@MalcolmV8 You did ARP2000 right?

I was thinking of actually doing the studs possibly, even though my tuner said he's not personally seen one lift a head.
Click to expand...

Yes I did. My motor's been head studded since 2008. These cars will lift heads on stock head bolts. What all was at play when it happens though is not always clear. Detonation, bad tunes or just purely to much power? I couldn't say as I have not personally done it.

Intervention302 said:
You do ARP2000 rod bolts as well? Somebody mentioned those to me today
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I did but the motor was apart and when the ARP2000s were torqued to spec the rods lightly honed to keep them round. If you swap to ARP2000s and stick with OEM torque specs I'm sure it'll be fine and can be done in car.
 
Intervention302

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MalcolmV8 said:
Yes I did. My motor's been head studded since 2008. These cars will lift heads on stock head bolts. What all was at play when it happens though is not always clear. Detonation, bad tunes or just purely to much power? I couldn't say as I have not personally done it.



I did but the motor was apart and when the ARP2000s were torqued to spec the rods lightly honed to keep them round. If you swap to ARP2000s and stick with OEM torque specs I'm sure it'll be fine and can be done in car.
Click to expand...


Regular ARP s big enough improvement over stock? Or just pony the cash for ARP2000?

Would doing 1 at a time with the heads still on be asking for that much trouble?

You ever change to ARP2000 rod bolts? I saw you BSin MMR a few years back about "fatique"
 
MalcolmV8

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Intervention302 said:
Regular ARP s big enough improvement over stock? Or just pony the cash for ARP2000?
Click to expand...
Regular ARP would be fine.

Intervention302 said:
Would doing 1 at a time with the heads still on be asking for that much trouble?
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It works great. Follow the correct torque sequence and you'll be fine.

Intervention302 said:
You ever change to ARP2000 rod bolts? I saw you BSin MMR a few years back about "fatique"
Click to expand...

Yes I did change my rod bolts. See previous reply. It was not due to fatigue but because I was making a lot of hp and spinning it to 7500 RPM and beating the piss out of it. RPM is what will take out the rod bolts more so than HP.
 
Intervention302

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MalcolmV8 said:
Regular ARP would be fine.


It works great. Follow the correct torque sequence and you'll be fine.



Yes I did change my rod bolts. See previous reply. It was not due to fatigue but because I was making a lot of hp and spinning it to 7500 RPM and beating the piss out of it. RPM is what will take out the rod bolts more so than HP.
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Thanks Malcolm
 
Intervention302

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Man these part numbers are making my head spin...

Rod bolts: what's the difference between ARP2000 and ARP Pro Series 2000

256-6301 : Pro series, set of 16. $132
200-6207 : ARP2000, set of 8. $139 for two


ARP Headstuds
156-4301: $307

Above part number is what I found on AM.com, but when you go to ARP.com there seem a be a couple different part numbers

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IllCobra

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Intervention302 said:
Man these part numbers are making my head spin...

Rod bolts: what's the difference between ARP2000 and ARP Pro Series 2000

256-6301 : Pro series, set of 16. $132
200-6207 : ARP2000, set of 8. $139 for two


ARP Headstuds
156-4301: $307

Above part number is what I found on AM.com, but when you go to ARP.com there seem a be a couple different part numbers

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Click to expand...
If you're interested, I can tell you how to get the stronger ARP 2000 256-4201 for ~$370... let me know.
 
IllCobra

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Intervention302 said:
Same thing, but 12pt vs hex?

You got the hookup on those?

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Just a cheat code lol You can also get them in a couple of days rather than the 12/19 date Jegs will get them to you. You just gotta go through Summit rather than Jegs. Give me a sec and i'll type it out. It's a simple process
 

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