Inspect your car, before things like this happen
- Thread starter Cobra-R
- Start date
Well, that's what happens when you drive too fast trying to run over me! :lol: :beer:
You sure that wasn't from a raccoon you hit or something? Nahhh you'd never do that:coolman:
:lol:
Seriously though, that sucks man, have you talked to the vendor who sold it to you about it? Doesn't seem like that should break that easily...
:lol:
Seriously though, that sucks man, have you talked to the vendor who sold it to you about it? Doesn't seem like that should break that easily...
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Dude:
You're just driving too fast, that's all!!!!!:lol: ;-)
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
You're just driving too fast, that's all!!!!!:lol: ;-)
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
Brian,
This is one of the reasons I am getting away from my Griggs stuff. My convertible is full rear griggs and coil overs all the way around. I have really thought about the way the car is designed to carry the load through the factory suspension points. I am not comfortable using the Griggs or M/M parts that redesign the suspension. I am probably going to get a few Steeda parts and keep the normal spring locations with the stock k-member.
I will soon have all of the griggs parts for sale from the convertible.
You are correct in stating EVERYTHING must be checked before each event.
This is one of the reasons I am getting away from my Griggs stuff. My convertible is full rear griggs and coil overs all the way around. I have really thought about the way the car is designed to carry the load through the factory suspension points. I am not comfortable using the Griggs or M/M parts that redesign the suspension. I am probably going to get a few Steeda parts and keep the normal spring locations with the stock k-member.
I will soon have all of the griggs parts for sale from the convertible.
You are correct in stating EVERYTHING must be checked before each event.
Tom,
I wouldn't feel as bad if these parts were 5 yrs old and were just showing thier age, but the K-member has only 9 or so events on it and the panard bar only has 6 weekends.
I am thinking Maximum Motorsport products now. I don't think I could live without the level of handling I have become acustomed to. Us older slower cars have to make up time in the corners, we sure arent going to do it the the straights.
Brian
just goes to show what kind of stresses we put our cars through to have our fun, huh??!
Shoddy Welds
They must have some monkeys puttin' that stuff together. That's just unacceptable... especially for the ammount of money that costs!
They must have some monkeys puttin' that stuff together. That's just unacceptable... especially for the ammount of money that costs!
Brian,
I think I would be on the phone with Mr. Griggs and giving him a piece of my mind!!:gt: :mj: :mj: :mj:
I agree that this is totally unacceptable, especially given how much money you spent on this stuff!!
I am not so convinced I will be doing the suspension upgrade now ?... I may just install some heftier springs?? That is what Joe and I have been talking about doing. We won't get the weight savings, BUT at least the suspension is reliable under pressure!
Keep us posted!
I think I would be on the phone with Mr. Griggs and giving him a piece of my mind!!:gt: :mj: :mj: :mj:
I agree that this is totally unacceptable, especially given how much money you spent on this stuff!!
I am not so convinced I will be doing the suspension upgrade now ?... I may just install some heftier springs?? That is what Joe and I have been talking about doing. We won't get the weight savings, BUT at least the suspension is reliable under pressure!
Keep us posted!
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John M.
Banned
Re: Shoddy Welds
I agree the welds are the problem here, the welds will work for Street cars but track cars are totally different. With a Name like Griggs, you shouldnt have this problem. You could have paid 1/2 the cost and gone with UPR if you wanted your stuff to break in a short period of time.
I agree the welds are the problem here, the welds will work for Street cars but track cars are totally different. With a Name like Griggs, you shouldnt have this problem. You could have paid 1/2 the cost and gone with UPR if you wanted your stuff to break in a short period of time.
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I am thinking Maximum Motorsport products now. I don't think I could live without the level of handling I have become acustomed to. Us older slower cars have to make up time in the corners, we sure arent going to do it the the straights.
Brian [/B][/QUOTE]
To Brian and whoever else may be considering front suspension upgrades. I am generally satisfied with my HPM Bart Works system. Jeremy and I put it on our cars in spring 2002 and have had no major failures with it. And I don't need to tell you how often and hard we drive our cars (about 5 events on it last year and 10 this year for me). Gene Borton uses it as well. It is not perfect, but it will give you that excellent handling you are used to.
Unfortunately Bart works is not perfect. The one problem I've had is the sway bar end link to it is not a good set up. The top bolt has broken on me twice. It will not create a major problem - and it is quite easily repairable at the track. (If I can fix it at the track, you know it's got to be easy! :lol: ) We are going to look at making a better joint at that end so the bolt won't be stressed too much. The other problem we had was the upper arm shifted forward (happened at Gingerman 9/20/03), causing me to lose 5 degrees of caster and almost 1 degree of neg camber. The bolts were all rock solidly tight. We suspect that it may have happened because all the stuff comes powder coated from the factory, so after a lot of wear it may allow just enough room to shift slightly.
Just my input to help "confuse" your decision making process. What you should do is drive my R and see how the handling feels to you. That may influence your decision. On the other hand maybe I shouldn't share my secrets as now all you guys will whip me at the track! :-D
Brian [/B][/QUOTE]
To Brian and whoever else may be considering front suspension upgrades. I am generally satisfied with my HPM Bart Works system. Jeremy and I put it on our cars in spring 2002 and have had no major failures with it. And I don't need to tell you how often and hard we drive our cars (about 5 events on it last year and 10 this year for me). Gene Borton uses it as well. It is not perfect, but it will give you that excellent handling you are used to.
Unfortunately Bart works is not perfect. The one problem I've had is the sway bar end link to it is not a good set up. The top bolt has broken on me twice. It will not create a major problem - and it is quite easily repairable at the track. (If I can fix it at the track, you know it's got to be easy! :lol: ) We are going to look at making a better joint at that end so the bolt won't be stressed too much. The other problem we had was the upper arm shifted forward (happened at Gingerman 9/20/03), causing me to lose 5 degrees of caster and almost 1 degree of neg camber. The bolts were all rock solidly tight. We suspect that it may have happened because all the stuff comes powder coated from the factory, so after a lot of wear it may allow just enough room to shift slightly.
Just my input to help "confuse" your decision making process. What you should do is drive my R and see how the handling feels to you. That may influence your decision. On the other hand maybe I shouldn't share my secrets as now all you guys will whip me at the track! :-D
I hate to see stuff like this especially after only 1 season of OT. I guess I'll have to really go over my entire suspension before the next racing season. That's just what I need, spend a lot of money replacing 1 year old suspension parts. Uggggg..........
Sorry to hear about these failures Bri... that sux.
Do you have any Griggs parts on that car without cracks?
I cracked both my front a-arms, so I know what you're going through.
If it were me, I'd remove the failed part, repair it, gusset it, and re-install... too cheap to go replace very expensive parts that are almost new. :cryying:
Not what I did with the a-arms though... I installed the Maximum Motorsports arms, and those pieces will stay intact on a semi! They are like night and day...look here
Good luck,
Dave
I cracked both my front a-arms, so I know what you're going through.
If it were me, I'd remove the failed part, repair it, gusset it, and re-install... too cheap to go replace very expensive parts that are almost new. :cryying:
Not what I did with the a-arms though... I installed the Maximum Motorsports arms, and those pieces will stay intact on a semi! They are like night and day...look here
Good luck,
Dave
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Re: Re: Shoddy Welds
EXACTLY. psh... I've made stronger welds on accident!!
Now that you mention it, the only part I havn't found or had a problem with is the drivers side A-arm.
I'm not comfortable risking mine as well as fellow trackers with future failures on track with new cracks/breaks. I think I will bite the bullet, admitt I made a poor choice, and upgrade. It's a tough pill to swallow, but I think it's the right thing to do. (I could always sell the parts to a drag racer, we all know they arent hard on suspension parts
)I am leaning in the MM direction also, Jack Hidley is working on a setup for my car. I have gotten some very good advice from friends to put my faith in him, and I will. I want to talk to Fred on the Barts works setup he and Jeremy are running, but as I see it they are about my only real choices at this point.
Thanks all, Brian
PS: John and Tim. On the panard mount, the square tube broke beside the weld. It's difficult to see in that pic and if someone is interested in a better pic I can take one since it is out of the car now.
On the K-member, it is cracked down the center of the weld.
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