My 99 Cobra vert

[jasonpalamar]

I just picked up a 1999 Cobra vert with 40k miles for $10k. 4th gear is out and there is a trans leak. I'm assuming since it ran low on fluid it isn't worth fixing so I'm picking up a reman TR3650. From my reading its a direct swap as long as I swap the T45 reverse light switch and get a TR3650 shifter.

Aside from the trans issue I knew of when I bought the car, it needs the typical stuff an older car needs... all suspension bushings, struts/shocks, and probally a little tune up stuff.

Car as a slightly choppy idle and it breaks up above 5k RPM. Assuming replacing the spark plugs should do the trick.

I plan to keep this thread open as I do work as sort of a diary of the car. Pics to come.

 

[Snk-Byet01]

IMHO:
1) Replace your T45 with another T45. A good old school transmission shop will have one on the shelves and your core will count for a "discount". It should hold up unless you start getting into higher HP.

2) The 3650 gets some bad press, maybe deservedly so. There was a problem with 1-2 shifts which was covered by a Ford TSB. There are many posts about this problem but I believe that this problem has been identified down to the serial numbers of the transmission.

3) If you go to the 3560 be sure that you follow the TSBs, both Ford and Tremec (if you can find them). Do NOT use synthetic fluid, straight Mercon/Dexron III (or IV) ATF. Do NOT fill up to the fill hole. Only 3.2 quarts. It will not be "smooth as butter", but better than the T45. This is experience from me. Eventually, if you don't follow these two suggestions, a 2-3 power shift will become very difficult if not impossible. I am biased, but if you choose to go with the TR3560, the MGW shifter is the best.

4) You could go with the T56 but it is a hassle and $$$s. You will need at the minimum an 03-04 drive shaft, pinion flange, clutch and a reverse lockout switch with wiring. The 3560 will probably fill your needs unless you change gears or want to X-Cross or drag. There are many posts about going to a T56.

5) I'm surprised that your engine is stumbling with only 40K on the odometer. Get the proper plugs and proper gap. Use anti-seize on the plug threads (you will thank yourself later) and some dielectric grease inside the COP boot. Thoroughly clean your throttle body (I recommend to remove it to get it really clean, just don't break the gasket). Get some good injector cleaner. I'm a cheap ass so I use the Lucas top-end cleaner since I have several vehicles. A small bottle every other fill-up. It will take a little time for everything to get back to where it should be, just be a little patient. If you want , do a SeaFoam treatment for your plenum and upper intake. Even if it does nothing you will have a nice smoke situation that will alarm the neighborhood. Your MAF might be dirty. Cleaning it is simple, you just need to get one of those anti-tamper TORX bits to remove the MAF.

6) Have fun with your vehicle and don't putt-putt around. It likes high revs.

IHTH. I'll probably get flamed for some of my suggestions, but that is a hazard for social media.

 

[01yellercobra]

I ran Coastal brand ATF in my 3650 and never had an issue. Even behind blown big bore stroker. Saying that I'd probably go with another T45 as well. Just a pop and swap. FWIW, you don't need an 03/04 pinion flange to run the 03/04 driveshaft with a T-56. You can get a hybrid u-joint that adapts to the 99/01 flange. That's what I did in my 01.

 

[52merc]

I have had Royal Purple Synchomax in my TR3650 since just after I had the 1-2 gear fix by Ford back in 2002. The 3650 is not a "smooth" transmission, but I have not had any other problems. I have a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter and it has worked well for me. My only comment would be that there was increased gear noise which comes up through the shifter handle due to its rigid mounting.

I'd put a T56 in my car if money was no issue, but it is and always will be.

 

[Snk-Byet01]

I ran Coastal brand ATF in my 3650 and never had an issue. Even behind blown big bore stroker. Saying that I'd probably go with another T45 as well. Just a pop and swap. FWIW, you don't need an 03/04 pinion flange to run the 03/04 driveshaft with a T-56. You can get a hybrid u-joint that adapts to the 99/01 flange. That's what I did in my 01.

Thanks Yeller, I didn't know about the u-joint. We (I) just need to really question answers on the 'Net and not take them as Gospel.

 

[Snk-Byet01]

I have had Royal Purple Synchomax in my TR3650 since just after I had the 1-2 gear fix by Ford back in 2002. The 3650 is not a "smooth" transmission, but I have not had any other problems. I have a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter and it has worked well for me. My only comment would be that there was increased gear noise which comes up through the shifter handle due to its rigid mounting.

I'd put a T56 in my car if money was no issue, but it is and always will be.

I put too much RP in my 3560 and started to have problems, especially 2-3 power shift. I drained the transmission and ran some K-1 kerosene through it and then replaced the fluid with Mercon/Dexron III at 3.2 quarts. Maybe it was just the overfill from the RP (up to the fill hole). However Tremec indicated that synthetic messes with the syncros on the 3560 since they are not totally metallic. Anyway, I am now a happy customer for the time being.

Good for you. In my case YMMV. Take care.

 

[TBCobra]

Only thing I can add is I had the 3650 in my 01 and that thing took all the abuse that I threw at it. I ended up putting a t45 in it, long story, and the first or second day I had it I lost 2nd and 4th gear after some semi-hard shifting.

 

[01yellercobra]

Thanks Yeller, I didn't know about the u-joint. We (I) just need to really question answers on the 'Net and not take them as Gospel.

All good man. I had my 01 a little over 9 years and it went from stock to street beast. A lot of what I learned was from my own screw ups.

Only thing I can add is I had the 3650 in my 01 and that thing took all the abuse that I threw at it. I ended up putting a t45 in it, long story, and the first or second day I had it I lost 2nd and 4th gear after some semi-hard shifting.

Did you know the condition of the T-45 before you installed it? It might have been on it's way out already. I beat the crap out of the T-45 in my 98 GT. I know it didn't have the power of the Cobra, but I drove it like a teenager. Rolling at 20mph, rev to 4k, and dump the clutch to spin the tires. Plus lots of racing and power shifting.

 

[RX1Cobra]

Rolling at 20mph, rev to 4k, and dump the clutch to spin the tires. Plus lots of racing and power shifting.

That's how I blew up my 3650 when it was stock. Broke the input shaft racing a buddy's bolt on LT1 4th gen. 40 MPH rolling clutch dump and it sounded like a had marbles in the trans at the next light.

Guy I was racing was Ford tech so got it replaced under warranty. Same trans is still in the car now and has lived with an Eaton and drag radials for 6 years. No more rolling clutch dumps though.

 

[jasonpalamar]

IMHO:
1) Replace your T45 with another T45. A good old school transmission shop will have one on the shelves and your core will count for a "discount". It should hold up unless you start getting into higher HP.

2) The 3650 gets some bad press, maybe deservedly so. There was a problem with 1-2 shifts which was covered by a Ford TSB. There are many posts about this problem but I believe that this problem has been identified down to the serial numbers of the transmission.

3) If you go to the 3560 be sure that you follow the TSBs, both Ford and Tremec (if you can find them). Do NOT use synthetic fluid, straight Mercon/Dexron III (or IV) ATF. Do NOT fill up to the fill hole. Only 3.2 quarts. It will not be "smooth as butter", but better than the T45. This is experience from me. Eventually, if you don't follow these two suggestions, a 2-3 power shift will become very difficult if not impossible. I am biased, but if you choose to go with the TR3560, the MGW shifter is the best.

4) You could go with the T56 but it is a hassle and $$$s. You will need at the minimum an 03-04 drive shaft, pinion flange, clutch and a reverse lockout switch with wiring. The 3560 will probably fill your needs unless you change gears or want to X-Cross or drag. There are many posts about going to a T56.

5) I'm surprised that your engine is stumbling with only 40K on the odometer. Get the proper plugs and proper gap. Use anti-seize on the plug threads (you will thank yourself later) and some dielectric grease inside the COP boot. Thoroughly clean your throttle body (I recommend to remove it to get it really clean, just don't break the gasket). Get some good injector cleaner. I'm a cheap ass so I use the Lucas top-end cleaner since I have several vehicles. A small bottle every other fill-up. It will take a little time for everything to get back to where it should be, just be a little patient. If you want , do a SeaFoam treatment for your plenum and upper intake. Even if it does nothing you will have a nice smoke situation that will alarm the neighborhood. Your MAF might be dirty. Cleaning it is simple, you just need to get one of those anti-tamper TORX bits to remove the MAF.

6) Have fun with your vehicle and don't putt-putt around. It likes high revs.

IHTH. I'll probably get flamed for some of my suggestions, but that is a hazard for social media.

I was planning to buy a rebuilt and upgraded trans from Pro Force Performance. Their rebuilds solves the common issues with the TR3650. I'll likely go with the MGW shifter since I had one in my C5Z06 and loved it. It seems T45 parts are getting harder to come by so that was my main reason for not doing a rebuild and I'm not willing to dump the money into a T56. I plan to drive it fairly hard as a DD but won't power shift or launch it. Really just want to cruise with the top down and roll into the throttle when possible.

 

[Snk-Byet01]

Sorry folks. I guess I am a little dyslectic. I kept writing 3560, not 3650.

Edit: I added some information on the 3650. In the Ford TSB, #6 is very important.

 

[01yellercobra]

That's how I blew up my 3650 when it was stock. Broke the input shaft racing a buddy's bolt on LT1 4th gen. 40 MPH rolling clutch dump and it sounded like a had marbles in the trans at the next light.

Guy I was racing was Ford tech so got it replaced under warranty. Same trans is still in the car now and has lived with an Eaton and drag radials for 6 years. No more rolling clutch dumps though.

When I put my big bore set up in I was a little more careful. I wouldn't do many starts from first. I usually waited until I was rolling in second to punch it. I like to think that's what helped my trans live.

 

[Revvv]

I was planning to buy a rebuilt and upgraded trans from Pro Force Performance. Their rebuilds solves the common issues with the TR3650. I'll likely go with the MGW shifter since I had one in my C5Z06 and loved it. It seems T45 parts are getting harder to come by so that was my main reason for not doing a rebuild and I'm not willing to dump the money into a T56. I plan to drive it fairly hard as a DD but won't power shift or launch it. Really just want to cruise with the top down and roll into the throttle when possible.

Pro Force is my answer.

Sent from my [device_name] using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[jasonpalamar]

Swapped out the old plugs and the car doesn't blow out spark anymore. Old plugs were never gapped and it was almost 2x as big as it should be.

Brakes arrived but I didn't put them on yet.

Replaced the tensioner and my belt squeek went away. The belt that is currently on it isn't the right one. Was only able to get it on my loosing the water pump pully and sliding it on.

Anyone know what length belt P1SC with the factory 3.8 pully is?