you don't need new cables if you use B upper.
106160s cannot be installed at 106/110, the 106100s can. If going with 106160s set them at 110/114
stock parts should be good all around
Cams and intake, going under the knife.
- Thread starter NC Mystic
- Start date
you don't need new cables if you use B upper.
i hadn't though to ask, but just assumed. are the 106160's the most aggressive comp cam i can go and still use stock springs, or would the 106100 have a more agressive lope possible than the 106160's? i tried looking at the specs on them more but it's just samarian to me
oh also i was going to bite the bullet and get arp head studs, is there any other retaining hardware or nick nack of the sort i am overlooking?
I am just trying to get a good figure of parts and prices of this so i don't come up short or get terribly surprised at any point
good to hear i can keep that short list of parts stock, that will free up a little more cash towards the cop conversion and ca valve covers
oh also i was going to bite the bullet and get arp head studs, is there any other retaining hardware or nick nack of the sort i am overlooking?
I am just trying to get a good figure of parts and prices of this so i don't come up short or get terribly surprised at any point
good to hear i can keep that short list of parts stock, that will free up a little more cash towards the cop conversion and ca valve covers
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You have to replace the cam bolts, and crank bolt since they're tty. If you dont go arp for the head bolts/studs, you'll still have to replace them with new ones since they're tty as well. Tty stands for torque to yield and are one use only. And of course you'll need valve cover gaskets, front cover gaskets, head gaskets, c head intake lower and upper gaskets, and b head upper gasket.
The 106160s have more duration and are the most aggressive you can go with stock springs. Why are going with stock springs if the engine is apart? Don't be a tight @ss, spend $200 and get some springs so you can use higher lift cams.
You don't need head studs. Stock bolts and gaksets will cost you $100, studs alone are $250. Put the money you save into the valve springs.
I'm not fan of the COP conversion since the COPS are not made for waste spark ignitions.
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Not trying to hijack, but could you elaborate a little more on this?
and you were asking about changing radiators, your stock one i fine but change the AC condenser if it hasn't been done already, that's the main cooling issue with the 96's. Changed mine and haven't had any issues since.
I hate you guys. I want cams but so much money.
Me need cams. But that means c heads and a SRI.
you'll get there someday- don't rush it.
i've had my cobra for 5 years and haven't drive it in two, you'll get there man and enjoy your ride in the mean time! :coolman:
how much of a difference does the short runner intake really make in terms of power to the wheel difference.
It would be nice but just more labor time which is money, may have to hold off on it for now.
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I sent you a pm on mine.
Why would you need to change to C heads if doing cams? Just do cams, SRI, LT's, and see how much you make.
Because I didn't do any motor work at all.
I can score c heads and a manifold for around $700.
$700 for plus cams and some valve train, I think I can get 400 N/A RWHP for $3000.
And I say $3000 because I don't have long tubes, pullies, or any mod except for mufflers as far as power mods go.
See what I'm saying? And I could most likely sell my intake and heads for $300.
yeah i already have a set of 99 c heads sitting on my floor, have been for a while. and i think i can trade my eaton for a 99 lower and use the B upper to C lower adaptor. so why not switch to C's?
and if i ever decided to throw money at a whipple or kenne bell i'd be one step closer with the built c heads on it
and if i ever decided to throw money at a whipple or kenne bell i'd be one step closer with the built c heads on it
^^^use a mach lower instead, flows a little better and with the 99 you run the chance of ending up with one that never had the "fix".
It's very hard to get 380 from a stock bottom end with cams, C heads and intake work, 400 is unheard of when using a stock intake (ported or short runner).
Adding power throughout the range seen in the quarter is much better than shooting for a high peak number.
I figure if I shoot high, maybe I'll see 380 with c heads, cams, and a SRI.
Power through the band is way more important to me than peak.
But thanks for the info, still feeling these modulars out.
With a 150 shot, I think it'd be an animal on the street.
with a c head swap and a 150 shot you'll blow your motor to hell.
^^^ What makes you say that?
I guess you missed this Todd. I'd really like to know when you get a chance, as I have about half of the stuff to do the swap now.
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