I agree... If I try to hold it past an indicated 7250 in 1st it hit the limiter. I honestly think the tach is a little behind.I seem to notice mine hitting the limiter before the 7500 mark on the tach. More like 7300 on the tach. Almost like the engine revs faster than the tach can keep up in first/second gear.
I agree... If I try to hold it past an indicated 7250 in 1st it hit the limiter. I honestly think the tach is a little behind.
I agree... If I try to hold it past an indicated 7250 in 1st it hit the limiter. I honestly think the tach is a little behind.
Have you tracked your car? Mine's fine on the street but at the track it's a mess. Again I think it's the clutch and I'm installing a McLeod RXT this week.I have 20k miles on my 12 and switched to BG syncromesh II fluid and a Barton shifter and bracket. I have 0 problems with mine. I replaced the fluid right when I bought it new. Made a huge difference.
Yes I have 2nd to 3rd was my only issue but found shifting with a open hand made all the difference. If I try to push to 3rd with my hand gripping the ball it will miss every time.
1. MGW solves much of the notchy shifts and smooths things out
This is a band-aid fix and best and is not the problem The clutch is the problem2. remove clutch spring.. pedal will not go super soft on you after WOT pulls.and the clutch will feel much better and more linear in my opinion
This line is a complete waste of money (unless you're running LT headers) and DOES NOT fix the problem. Ask me how I know.3. JHR High flow clutch line will lastly solve the lockout issue that is mostly seen at high rpm 2-3 3-4 shifts.
For me the stock shifter is much smoother and lighter in the 6-8 5.0's that I've driven including three different ones on a track.
This is a band-aid fix and best and is not the problem The clutch is the problem
This line is a complete waste of money (unless you're running LT headers) and DOES NOT fix the problem. Ask me how I know.
For me the stock shifter is much smoother and lighter in the 6-8 5.0's that I've driven including three different ones on a track.
I agree, the clutch is the problem. Why can I shift just fine through all the gears, in a speedy manner at 6800.....but if I go over 7K, it's a crap shoot.. Has to be the clutch setup. Pedal does not go soft at 6800, but after 7K...yup....
At this point, maybe a little combination of both. I hate hydraulic clutches in general for this reason. I'd rather have a cable clutch.This makes sense. Are you thinking the pressure plate or the hydraulics?
I like the MGW and I'm not going to switch back at this point. I think the greatest improvement for removing the vague feeling from the stock shifter is eliminating the marshmallow stock shifter bracket. Both MGW and Barton use a twin post design and if I was going to do it again I'd just buy the Barton twin post bracket and be done with it. I first installed a Steeda shifter bracket and that tightened up the shifting. The twin post design keeps the shifter from rotating and tightens up the shifting in another plane. Be prepared for more NHV in either case.So you prefer the stock shifter over the MGW?