Cobra Jet Manifold: Nitrous Install **Pic Heavy**

[jn2]

So I finally got the entire install done. I installed everything over 2 weekends. I did all the solenoid and lines on one and the wiring on the next. I have got to say that wiring everything was the PITA out of the entire install.

Parts used during install:
- Nitrous Outlet Plate kit
- Nitrous Outlet Stage 2 Accessories Kit:

• Heated Bottle Bracket
• Purge Kit w/aluminum tubing
• Blow down tube

- Roush AC vent pod
- Innovate PSN1 controller
- 100ft of red wire, 50ft of black wire, 25ft of green wire(didn't use all of it, but what's included in the kit is not enough)
- 3 inline fuse holders w/30a fuses
- 2 add a circuits(for 12v switched source)
- Terminal rings x10(they come in a pack)
- Heat shrink tubing

Nitrous Kit (I did have to have the fuel rail adapter swapped by Nitrous Outlet bc they included a angled one for the GT500)

Nitrous solenoid plumbing. I really wish they included a fitting to let you attach the fuel solenoid directly to the fuel rail adapter bc it would of made mounting a lot easier.

I painted the little bracket with black plastidip to get them to blend in a little better

Nitrous plate installed and hoses were snaked through the runner to take up the slack in the lines. Also wrapped everything in wire loom to keep an overall clean appearance

Wires up the weather pack connector to the bottle heater pressure unit. I will prob go back and remove the connector and just use wire. Instructions weren't clear on where connector goes, but I feel it would be better used on the bottle heater wires instead.

Nitrous line, 12v battery wire, and gauge pressure line routed under back seat and under the door sill.

Here is how everything in the trunk was wired. The thin black wire is for the gauges pressure unit. It had just enough line to reach the gauge.

Nitrous Outlet switch panel

Here is the back on the console switch panel, all the wires were routed through the center assembly and snaked around so the e-brake wouldn't pull any of the wires.

Innovate PSN1 gauge

All the wiring for the PSN1 gauge. All the wires are green but properly labelled. The red wire is from for the WOT microswitch and black is a ground for the switch panel.

Roush gauge pod installed

Here are the 3 battery wires that connect to the battery. Each one has a 30a fuse

This is the mess of wires I had to deal with, again, labeling is the key to staying sane

Here is a pic of all the wires neatly tucked and wire loomed. I was really wanting to keep this install as clean as possible. The relays are all attached on the right side behind the strut tower.

Gauge is powered on and working(as good as it will work with out a tach adapter that is)

Final engine bay lay out.

Here's a video showing a quick 2nd>3rd>4th pull.

[video=youtube;2CH5VX5yUno]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CH5VX5yUno&list=PLcK0RJ1Dfy7XhKcpsVWxC-tFlpoz3PNT0&index=3[/video]

 

[kona 199]

nice work!!

 

[heart_attack]

150 shot? Don't be a chicken now lol wish I would have went with nitrous at this point.

 

[jn2]

150 shot? Don't be a chicken now lol wish I would have went with nitrous at this point.

150 shot is the plan.

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Nice, clean looking finished product! Lots of wires! Are you going on the dyno with it?

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

Very clean setup, looks great!

 

[oldbones]

Clean install!! The CJ's rpm potential is awesome to use with spray. I keep mine spraying upto 7700 rpms, but only on a 100 shot. I've put about 30-40 bottles through it now and it runs with a lot of quick cars.

 

[jn2]

Nice, clean looking finished product! Lots of wires! Are you going on the dyno with it?

Yeah once I'm done datalogging and feel comfortable with the tune I'll take it to get dyno'd on and off the spray.

Very clean setup, looks great!

Thanks, a lot of hours went into wire routing path and how to hide them.

Clean install!! The CJ's rpm potential is awesome to use with spray. I keep mine spraying upto 7700 rpms, but only on a 100 shot. I've put about 30-40 bottles through it now and it runs with a lot of quick cars.

For sure! I plan on having the window set from 3600-7200rpm and then shift somewhere around 7500+

 

[heart_attack]

150 shot is the plan.

Hell yeah.

 

[KushBandit]

Looks great man! Can't wait to see numbers. Where are you gonna route your purge line out if? Under the hood/cowl, purging over the windshield is a personal favorite of mine lol.

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Yeah once I'm done datalogging and feel comfortable with the tune I'll take it to get dyno'd on and off the spray.



Thanks, a lot of hours went into wire routing path and how to hide them.



For sure! I plan on having the window set from 3600-7200rpm and then shift somewhere around 7500+

Nice man! You still tuning this setup yourself?

 

[jn2]

Looks great man! Can't wait to see numbers. Where are you gonna route your purge line out if? Under the hood/cowl, purging over the windshield is a personal favorite of mine lol.

Purge has already been routed. Look at the pic closely, if you do not see it, look by the driver side wiper and follow that black line all the way back to the purge solenoid. It's the flexible aluminum line include with the kit but I wrapped in black electrical tape to hide it.

Nice man! You still tuning this setup yourself?

That is correct. Once I get it dialed in I'm going to be working on a retard box so I don't have to swap tunes when I'm spraying

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Purge has already been routed. Look at the pic closely, if you do not see it, look by the driver side wiper and follow that black line all the way back to the purge solenoid. It's the flexible aluminum line include with the kit but I wrapped in black electrical tape to hide it.



That is correct. Once I get it dialed in I'm going to be working on a retard box so I don't have to swap tunes when I'm spraying

Nice man. Your one smart mofo to be tuning your car yourself! Congrats! That's a GREAT idea about the retard box so you don't have to keep swapping tunes. How do they work? Could I do one for my lund cammed tune and my regular?

 

[jn2]

Nice man. Your one smart mofo to be tuning your car yourself! Congrats! That's a GREAT idea about the retard box so you don't have to keep swapping tunes. How do they work? Could I do one for my lund cammed tune and my regular?

Retard box works by using a relay and resistor to trick the ECM into thinking(in my case) that air intake temps are -40*. This will force the ECM to apply the -40* IAT vs Spark modifiers, which I have set to -6(for a 150shot). The relay is armed off the same nitrous arming switch that feed my solenoids so anything you arm the nitrous, the IAT will drop to -40 and the ECM will pull from the corresponding table that commands less spark advance.

It would work on a ghost cam car the same as it would any other, but a retard box would not allow you to change from a camel idle to normal idle bc the box is a simple relay and resistor.

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Retard box works by using a relay and resistor to trick the ECM into thinking(in my case) that air intake temps are -40*. This will force the ECM to apply the -40* IAT vs Spark modifiers, which I have set to -6(for a 150shot). The relay is armed off the same nitrous arming switch that feed my solenoids so anything you arm the nitrous, the IAT will drop to -40 and the ECM will pull from the corresponding table that commands less spark advance.

It would work on a ghost cam car the same as it would any other, but a retard box would not allow you to change from a camel idle to normal idle bc the box is a simple relay and resistor.

Gotcha man I understand how it works now. Good luck! Hows it runnin?

 

[jn2]

Gotcha man I understand how it works now. Good luck! Hows it runnin?

Just finished datalogging a few passes and made some initial adjustments. Overall it felt great, you can def feel the power kick on and sadly, when it turns off too hahahah...but good thing is you shift literally a split second afterwards.

Spent a good bit of time adjusting the pressure sensor for the bottle warmer in order to get it to set. I have it set to turn off around 1,030-1,050psi...

 

[gt5.0coyote]

Just finished datalogging a few passes and made some initial adjustments. Overall it felt great, you can def feel the power kick on and sadly, when it turns off too hahahah...but good thing is you shift literally a split second afterwards.

Spent a good bit of time adjusting the pressure sensor for the bottle warmer in order to get it to set. I have it set to turn off around 1,030-1,050psi...

Nice man. You should make a street run video! Lol I bet you can feel it kick off haha.

 

[jn2]

Nice man. You should make a street run video! Lol I bet you can feel it kick off haha.

Bottle is empty now, I did function tests on 50 shot, then stepped up to 100 shot, did a few passes of that to dial in the tune and then like magic I was out. Well technically not bone dry, I have 2lbs left in the bottle, but it takes forever to heat it up to working pressure.

 

[oldbones]

Just finished datalogging a few passes and made some initial adjustments. Overall it felt great, you can def feel the power kick on and sadly, when it turns off too hahahah...but good thing is you shift literally a split second afterwards.

Spent a good bit of time adjusting the pressure sensor for the bottle warmer in order to get it to set. I have it set to turn off around 1,030-1,050psi...

If you run the quarter mile your car will be faster with your starting PSI around 900. It provides a denser nitrous charge plus it'll 60 ft better.

 

[Riddick]

Set up looks great, looks like you didn't take any shortcuts and did it the right way. How much total do you have in the nitrous set up?