Does anyone know where I can get a set of these Button Bolts for the IRS?
Better rear wheel spacers?
- Thread starter jdl1000
- Start date
I need to correct my earlier post. 1/4" wasn't enough. I meant 3/8". 3/8" spacer, extended length lugnuts, and a slight bolt head grind would be enough to fit the GS-D3's..........unless your car was built like mine.
The "buttonhead" bolt is a possible solution, but probably not the best one. Changing chassis fasteners is a complicated matter, as well as a major safety issue. There are lots of variables that must be considered (bolt material, diameter, strength, stress factors, fatigue life, sheer load, etc). The buttonhead bolt may not as strong as the factory bolt under all load conditions...and at least one person reported a buttonhead bolt failure.
The better solution is to either grind or machine some material off of the stock bolt head. You don't even have to remove the bolts from the car to do it. See pics in THIS thread.
-Greg
Nope......missed Alabama. But I did drive through Pa, Md, WVA, VA, TENN, ARK and TEXAS AND back....last weekend. Those roads sucked pretty bad Roscoe:-D but none bad enough to totally unload the rear suspension. BTW I was in my truck towing my trailer on those roads.
Darin
Greg - Do you have any more information on this button head bolt failure? Were the button head bolts in question acquired from J69gordon? Supposedly the ones offered by J69gordon were a few grades stronger than the OEM IRS bolts. Although there was some concern over shear strength at the head since the stock bolt has a collar and the button head does not.
U.M.
No...but I THINK it may have happened to Bingo13.
The point of my post is that for anyone considering swapping out IRS bolts at this point, just stick with the OEM bolts and modify them. Not only is it cheaper/easier, but you don't have any of the other variables in question regarding the bolt's strength. More info in THIS thread.
-Greg
Not trying to get in the way here, but the bolts J69gordon was selling were made by ARP in a batch of 50 to 100 sets. They were stronger than stock. There were others floating around that were inferior. I'm not saying the one that failed couldn't have been one J sold, but usually ARP stuff is top notch.....it should be for the money!
Not true.. They were provided by a local fastener supplier. ARP wouldn't touch them with gloves on. The bolts were unsuitable for our application. I know, as I still have a brand new unused set in my tool box. I'm the one who initially came up with grinding the head of the factory bolts.
Is Raysur making these spacers? I have had a PM in with him for two months and have not heard anything yet?
I need a set of 1/8" or 3/16" spacers and will take a 1/4" set if I have to. After grinding off more than half of the left side bolt head I only have 1/32" clearance (in the unsprung condition. Something I see going through turn 5 at Road America) I don't know how much that tire moves when pulling a g in a corner?
Any and all help will be appreciated!!!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
I need a set of 1/8" or 3/16" spacers and will take a 1/4" set if I have to. After grinding off more than half of the left side bolt head I only have 1/32" clearance (in the unsprung condition. Something I see going through turn 5 at Road America) I don't know how much that tire moves when pulling a g in a corner?
Any and all help will be appreciated!!!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
Maybe it was someone else, but I put up a post in the market asking for a set of button-head bolts back when I bought my wheels and tires and the person that PM'd me I thought was him. He told me he was out of button-head bolts, but that ARP would make more, but I'd have to order at least 100 sets to get them to make any. Maybe it was someone else. Sorry for the confusion.
So how much clearance is safe? Does the wheel/tire move left right at all?
There are 10.9 button head bolts availabe from www.metricMCC.com item # 7380, but they are full thread and that has to weaken the collar area?
There are 10.9 button head bolts availabe from www.metricMCC.com item # 7380, but they are full thread and that has to weaken the collar area?
I have seen several references to AFS "extended reach" lug nuts required when running these spacers.
I contacted AFS and they informed me they don't have any "extended reach" lug nuts. Just their standard lug nuts. Are their standard lug nuts "something special"?
I have some 7/32" spacers finally on the way from Raysur and think I will need extended reach lug nuts?
Any and all help/advice will be greatly appreciated.
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
I contacted AFS and they informed me they don't have any "extended reach" lug nuts. Just their standard lug nuts. Are their standard lug nuts "something special"?
I have some 7/32" spacers finally on the way from Raysur and think I will need extended reach lug nuts?
Any and all help/advice will be greatly appreciated.
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
From what I can tell the wheel/tire combo doesn't move. With the irs design the camber stays pretty consistent during sunspension loading and unloading. I have NO clearance when the suspension is completely unloaded. The tire sidewall is pressing on the shaved bolt head pretty hard. I have run this combo with stock springs, which is the worst option, and the tires have not rubbed. I have done some very aggresive cloverleaf (freeway ramps) running and some mild street drifting (love those corner power slides:rockon: ) without ANY problems.
Darin
Sorry to get off of topic.......but ac427cobra are you the one over at Corner-Carvers that was involved in the big discussion about brakes and rotors, and ended up doing custom rotors.
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Yep, Ray is making spacers. See the last post on this page:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=946384#post946384
Yep, I'm the guy that had Coleman make me rotors for my front floating two piece Brembo set-up. Coleman's rotors are better and lots cheaper than Brembo. Before I found Coleman I was pulling my hair out over those damn Brembos!!:bash:
Bruce
How AFS makes there rims you really need to use there lugnuts as the hole is significantly bigger then the stud size.
Here is a picture of there lugs compared to stock.
I am pretty sure there lugs will not work with stock rims.
I have undies 1/4" spacers on my car and haven't had a problem at all.
Hey Too Fast:
Thanks for going to all of that trouble to explain that to me! :thumbsup: :bowdown:
It makes perfect sense NOW? So it looks like I even need these lugs on the front wheels also that I'm running without spacers?
Thanks again for the awesome explaination!!!!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
Thanks for going to all of that trouble to explain that to me! :thumbsup: :bowdown:
It makes perfect sense NOW? So it looks like I even need these lugs on the front wheels also that I'm running without spacers?
Thanks again for the awesome explaination!!!!
:thumbsup: :coolman: :beer:
I was reading that thread yesterday and it sounds like you found the fix with Colemans rotors. That what persistence and some damn good resources from the web will get ya'.:-D I have been trying to decide what direction to go with brakes now for quite some time. 2000 R Brembo's, StopTech and now Roush comes out with the 14" Alcons that would go great with Baers 13" rear kit.........so many choices.:shrug:
Darin
Originally posted by toofast4u
How AFS makes there rims you really need to use there lugnuts as the hole is significantly bigger then the stud size.
Here is a picture of there lugs compared to stock.
I am pretty sure there lugs will not work with stock rims.
I have undies 1/4" spacers on my car and haven't had a problem at all.
Great work on those pictures toofast.:rockon:
Darin
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