I think a 7 second 60-130 is pretty good. It's not nearly as insane as a 3-4 second time though.
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What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
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Oh no. I wouldn't have even tried anything with the dude with the chute.
I was just asking because I was looking at the log from when I ran the Supra and it took about 7 seconds to run 60-130. I need to break out the Dragy and get some times.
I'd consider that to be a fast street car. That's faster than any car I've ever been in.
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3-4 seconds 60-130 is likely a low 8/high 7 second 1/4 car.
For an idea, on 1070whp at 3400lbs, I have a video clip I filmed from doing a pull in my car that’s 1 second just to do 80-105. I’ll attach it here if I can. Being manual, I guarantee my 60-130 is north of 5.5 seconds at 1070whp on pump+octane booster.
Edit I didn’t figure it out. Best I have is two photos of the start/end of the video. Pics or ban…
Usually to hit mid 3 to 3.0 60-130 you need about 1:1 power per kg. Like 1250hp 1250kg which is 2750lbs or so and a very fast shifting transmission. I think a koenigsegg 1: one does something like 3.3 60-130.
Here’s a better idea to help explain it.
2 seconds 0-60.
3 seconds 60-130.
2 seconds 130-165.
7 seconds 0-165.
7-8 second car is a good way to think about it.
7 second 60-130…
3.5 0-60.
7.0 60-130.
Mid 10 car at 130+. Very fast street car. A stock 2020 gt500 is around 6.4-7.2 60-130 iirc for comparison. That’s 650whp and a dct in 4000lbs.
For a terminator, I think a hot shoe driver clicking a .150 2-3 and 3-4 shift, you gotta have north of 650whp and a 3500lbs car on great tires to get sub 7’s 60-130.
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I've been rocking stock brakes making around 700rwhp for some years now. Ideally it's probably a good idea to upgrade though.
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Took her to cars and coffee yesterday . Pretty nice day, was the only terminator there.
Went home and got all my parts together out of the garage. Gonna start the install next week. Decided I’m going to put the 2lb lower on and see how it does. Right now I’m on a 3.0 upper seeing around 24-25lbs of boost.
Still have this too install too
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Went home and got all my parts together out of the garage. Gonna start the install next week. Decided I’m going to put the 2lb lower on and see how it does. Right now I’m on a 3.0 upper seeing around 24-25lbs of boost.
Still have this too install too
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Took her to cars and coffee yesterday . Pretty nice day, was the only terminator there.
Went home and got all my parts together out of the garage. Gonna start the install next week. Decided I’m going to put the 2lb lower on and see how it does. Right now I’m on a 3.0 upper seeing around 24-25lbs of boost.
Still have this too install too
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That’s a great set of mods. You’re going to really like them
The FTBR kit is a 15/10 just by itself, add in kmember, headers…
Get this man a round of beers on the house
It will be a completely different car. I used a harbor freight engine support bar that holds the engine up to do long tubes. It was nice. If you don’t have a lift and don’t have one of those, think about getting one.Took her to cars and coffee yesterday . Pretty nice day, was the only terminator there.
Went home and got all my parts together out of the garage. Gonna start the install next week. Decided I’m going to put the 2lb lower on and see how it does. Right now I’m on a 3.0 upper seeing around 24-25lbs of boost.
Still have this too install too
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Brakeman had a great kit that might still be around.
Full tilt boogie racing also has endorsed or made or is in some positive way happy about a kit that might be that or something similar.
There are great 2-3k Baer 6p kits too, and if you want to get the most brake for the least money, Cadillac 6p’s are a known golden ticket with a little tooling for like $3-500 depending on the pad and fluid, line etc you get.
I have a cobra r kit now and it’s nice but I’ve outgunned it. I’m saving up for the Pro4R Kenny Brown kit… it’s very spendy but I spent an hour on the phone with Rich at Kenny Brown and their entire system is pretty epic from brakes to chassis/suspension, they even have a shelved SLA I wanna have them try and slap into my build with spindles and hubs.
I’m kinda nervous to go up to 27lbs on the stock motor but several guys are doing it with the Gen 5 Whipple.
I’m starting to build a teksid block now so it is what it is I guess.
I’m excited for the headers and FTBR I know those will change the car. Along with the 2lb lower lol
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I’m starting to build a teksid block now so it is what it is I guess.
I’m excited for the headers and FTBR I know those will change the car. Along with the 2lb lower lol
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Stock head bolts?
Yep
I might do the longtubes / 3” exhaust and see where I’m at with boost and then make a decision
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Living on the edge, I like it.
I would like to run 22-23 psi on mine but I don't want to do head bolts. I'm at 18 right now and throw the idea around of adding 2-3 more psi. Maybe this winter....I need a clutch, brakes, and injectors so it's whole ordeal.
You might want some ARP head studs to go along with the other things
This many years in, save yourself the time and frustration, pop off the heads, land fresh gaskets, and do arp head studs.
Back in like 04/05, the guys at MM&FF magazine did this, a fuel system, oil pump gears and a hellrsaiser twin charge sc/turbo setup. They made 1188whp with 42psi manifold pressure.
You’ve got an amazing build, the preventative to do gaskets and studs is definitely good idea
Do you know if you have 4 thread or 6 thread spark plug heads? It’s an easy fail point. If you have 6 thread heads, and have done a coolant recirculation mod to get the coolant flow constant, you’ll be able to get 25-30psi to hold up on the stock block with the aforementioned stuff. Cheap insurance.
Also later you’ll love what a teksid will do for the feel of the car later. I built a cammer road racing block when everyone said it’ll pop just because I wanted to take even more weight off the nose. These cars really love to corner once you get weight off the nose.
I have the head studs in a box I’m just not wasting the time to pull the heads and change gaskets etc. I will see where I’m at boost level wise once the new exhaust goes on. Hoping to drop a lb maybe.
I have AG heads (4 thread) on the car now with cobra engineering head cooling mod.
New motor is getting ported DC heads with Comp 106460 stage 3 cams, boundary oil pump etc
I was going to install the head studs when I did the blower swap and valve covers but didn’t want to deal with it one by one with motor in car.
I’m excited for the teksid swap, between that and the k member I’m hoping it’s a huge difference.
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I have AG heads (4 thread) on the car now with cobra engineering head cooling mod.
New motor is getting ported DC heads with Comp 106460 stage 3 cams, boundary oil pump etc
I was going to install the head studs when I did the blower swap and valve covers but didn’t want to deal with it one by one with motor in car.
I’m excited for the teksid swap, between that and the k member I’m hoping it’s a huge difference.
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It’ll lighten the front by about 150-200 lbs with the teksid (90+) headers (5-10lbs) kmember/arms (40-50lbs) and all. Another good one is redoing the inner crash bar for the 10-15lbs drag race one. It also frees up engine bay space.
It’s surprising how heavy the stock logs, suspension, etc even are.
Which kmember is that? Do you plan to do a arms also? I have a mm unit with the arms that stretch the wheel base.
It’s worth the extra to do that.
There’s a steering shaft modification that this gent (from svtp I believe) also figured out that I think would be awesome.
It’s surprising how heavy the stock logs, suspension, etc even are.
Which kmember is that? Do you plan to do a arms also? I have a mm unit with the arms that stretch the wheel base.
It’s worth the extra to do that.
There’s a steering shaft modification that this gent (from svtp I believe) also figured out that I think would be awesome.
I’m hoping to pick up a teksid block this year and start slowly doing it, and I’m seriously considering doing a K member swap
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