What did you do for your Terminator today?

tt335ci03cobra

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do it! You’ll really enjoy it. Spring for a great handling one. I have the MM unit now and it’s great but I’m gonna try the Kenny Brown one next.
I’m hoping to pick up a teksid block this year and start slowly doing it, and I’m seriously considering doing a K member swap


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blwn89gt

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do it! You’ll really enjoy it. Spring for a great handling one. I have the MM unit now and it’s great but I’m gonna try the Kenny Brown one next.

I was considering the chromoly upr kit. I had it on my fox and had no complaints and I know a few people who run them with no issues. I figured it’s more budget minded than a whole MM kit and I really want to get a teksid block and start building it. My issue is coil over, i dont know which coil overs to go with. I mainly just cruise around on the street. I don’t be going to a track or doing auto cross. I have H&R race springs now and I don’t mind how it handles. I seen the options like 12” or 14” springs and all the weights I’m like ugh wtf.



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TerminatorCobraJP

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3-4 seconds 60-130 is likely a low 8/high 7 second 1/4 car.

For an idea, on 1070whp at 3400lbs, I have a video clip I filmed from doing a pull in my car that’s 1 second just to do 80-105. I’ll attach it here if I can. Being manual, I guarantee my 60-130 is north of 5.5 seconds at 1070whp on pump+octane booster.

Edit I didn’t figure it out. Best I have is two photos of the start/end of the video. Pics or ban…


Usually to hit mid 3 to 3.0 60-130 you need about 1:1 power per kg. Like 1250hp 1250kg which is 2750lbs or so and a very fast shifting transmission. I think a koenigsegg 1: one does something like 3.3 60-130.

Here’s a better idea to help explain it.

2 seconds 0-60.
3 seconds 60-130.
2 seconds 130-165.
7 seconds 0-165.

7-8 second car is a good way to think about it.


7 second 60-130…

3.5 0-60.
7.0 60-130.

Mid 10 car at 130+. Very fast street car. A stock 2020 gt500 is around 6.4-7.2 60-130 iirc for comparison. That’s 650whp and a dct in 4000lbs.

For a terminator, I think a hot shoe driver clicking a .150 2-3 and 3-4 shift, you gotta have north of 650whp and a 3500lbs car on great tires to get sub 7’s 60-130.
Some good info. Thanks for sharing. I doubt I'll ever have a car that moves like that but I'd like to experience a ride in something that fast one day. What's the run down on your Cobra to be making 4 digit HP?

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MG0h3

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I have the head studs in a box I’m just not wasting the time to pull the heads and change gaskets etc. I will see where I’m at boost level wise once the new exhaust goes on. Hoping to drop a lb maybe.

I have AG heads (4 thread) on the car now with cobra engineering head cooling mod.

New motor is getting ported DC heads with Comp 106460 stage 3 cams, boundary oil pump etc

I was going to install the head studs when I did the blower swap and valve covers but didn’t want to deal with it one by one with motor in car.

I’m excited for the teksid swap, between that and the k member I’m hoping it’s a huge difference.


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Common misperception.

Boost is measured in your intake. It’s the air your blower is pushing that the engine can’t move.

A more free flowing exhaust allows more air into the cylinders which results in more power and less of a backup in the intake which is measured as boost.

Your cylinder pressure actually goes up, which is what lifts heads.

Boost pressure does not lift heads.


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tt335ci03cobra

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Some good info. Thanks for sharing. I doubt I'll ever have a car that moves like that but I'd like to experience a ride in something that fast one day. What's the run down on your Cobra to be making 4 digit HP?

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Thanks!

We had Livernois build a 4.6 aluminum cammer block into sleeved/coated 5.3 BB/stroker. Used gt500 heads with a full race port and MMR turbo cams. Intake is an fr500c with the 8.2” runner plumes. It’s been running with twin 62/65 comp turbos but I’ve gotten older and to slow down a bit and add drivability, we’re putting in twin 58’s and a Holley efi. The Turbos will be less productive, but the Holley should be much more accurate and let us rev cleanly to 8-8500rpm which it kinda wants.

We did 813whp on pump gas 10-11psi, 1070whp on 20psi with booster and 1208whp on 30psi.

The heads and cam make a huge difference. It lowers the pressure in the motor and moves everything out much better. It doesn’t make sense until you think about the flow restriction and ultimate cfm movement. If you take a big blower car on 25psi and do heads/cam, it’ll pick up 40-50whp, but the boost will fall to 22-23psi iirc +/-.

Blower though can force the air through, turbos are very sensitive to head and more so exhaust restriction. It’s why turbo cars see so much outta head/cam work while it almost seems like lost money on a blower car. But, it’ll run much cooler and more consistently on a blower car, since it has less restriction. Heat comes from stress and pressure as we all know so I still recommend atleast porting heads and doing a 98 cobra cam setup on a blower car if it’s not in the budget to buy racier grinds.

I don’t think it’ll make much more power revving to 8-8500rpm but it should be pretty flat line/not fall off. If I can stretch out to 8500 on kill mode, it would make the car much faster. For the street I can short shift at 6k and still walk away pretty hard from bolt on hellcats and the like but I want the revs for the really fast stuff. I’d like to get down to 3250lbs with a cage, but keep stereo, and run a nice light sport seat, etc. I think 1000-1200whp at 3250lbs might be enough to keep up with 1300-1400whp heavy weight cars like turbo newer gt500’s, hellcats and and zl1’s.

15-20 years ago 1000whp was rare and ridiculously fast but today it’s like 1500-2000whp+ is the new cool kid neighborhood.

When this motor blows, I’m doing gen 2 coyote with supporting mods and letting it eat. It would require a lot of financial ease and green pastures for me to build a motor like this again. This was honestly a huge expense and coulda been way easier to do a gen 2 coyote build but we put this together in 2015/16. It’s held up good though but the car rarely gets driven.
 

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TerminatorCobraJP

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Thanks!

We had Livernois build a 4.6 aluminum cammer block into sleeved/coated 5.3 BB/stroker. Used gt500 heads with a full race port and MMR turbo cams. Intake is an fr500c with the 8.2” runner plumes. It’s been running with twin 62/65 comp turbos but I’ve gotten older and to slow down a bit and add drivability, we’re putting in twin 58’s and a Holley efi. The Turbos will be less productive, but the Holley should be much more accurate and let us rev cleanly to 8-8500rpm which it kinda wants.

We did 813whp on pump gas 10-11psi, 1070whp on 20psi with booster and 1208whp on 30psi.

The heads and cam make a huge difference. It lowers the pressure in the motor and moves everything out much better. It doesn’t make sense until you think about the flow restriction and ultimate cfm movement. If you take a big blower car on 25psi and do heads/cam, it’ll pick up 40-50whp, but the boost will fall to 22-23psi iirc +/-.

Blower though can force the air through, turbos are very sensitive to head and more so exhaust restriction. It’s why turbo cars see so much outta head/cam work while it almost seems like lost money on a blower car. But, it’ll run much cooler and more consistently on a blower car, since it has less restriction. Heat comes from stress and pressure as we all know so I still recommend atleast porting heads and doing a 98 cobra cam setup on a blower car if it’s not in the budget to buy racier grinds.

I don’t think it’ll make much more power revving to 8-8500rpm but it should be pretty flat line/not fall off. If I can stretch out to 8500 on kill mode, it would make the car much faster. For the street I can short shift at 6k and still walk away pretty hard from bolt on hellcats and the like but I want the revs for the really fast stuff. I’d like to get down to 3250lbs with a cage, but keep stereo, and run a nice light sport seat, etc. I think 1000-1200whp at 3250lbs might be enough to keep up with 1300-1400whp heavy weight cars like turbo newer gt500’s, hellcats and and zl1’s.

15-20 years ago 1000whp was rare and ridiculously fast but today it’s like 1500-2000whp+ is the new cool kid neighborhood.

When this motor blows, I’m doing gen 2 coyote with supporting mods and letting it eat. It would require a lot of financial ease and green pastures for me to build a motor like this again. This was honestly a huge expense and coulda been way easier to do a gen 2 coyote build but we put this together in 2015/16. It’s held up good though but the car rarely gets driven.
Wow, very impressive! 1200WHP Cobra, I bet thats terrifying lol. I'd like to do a similar build to that but with a 3.0 Whipple. Maybe one day, but I know just from doing a simple 2.3 Whipple build how expensive building a street/borderline racecar can get.

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03' White Snake

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Did some wrenching on my brothers car. She’s a driver, not a looker hahahaha. Help him out where I can. He has 4 kids, so the car doesn’t get much love. He’s been stock piling parts for about 8-10 years. Doing head studs, 2.8h KB, return fuel system, 2 465 pumps, VC’s, 26 spline input shaft and a new clutch.

The before….
IMG_7415.jpeg


Nice little nest…
IMG_7418.jpeg


Baby blower….2.65” pulley
IMG_7419.jpeg


Covers off
IMG_7421.jpeg


Swapped studs 1 bolt at a time.
IMG_7428.jpeg


Freshly PC black VC’s back on.
IMG_7431.jpeg


Not bad for 5 hrs worth of work on day 1.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Wow, very impressive! 1200WHP Cobra, I bet thats terrifying lol. I'd like to do a similar build to that but with a 3.0 Whipple. Maybe one day, but I know just from doing a simple 2.3 Whipple build how expensive building a street/borderline racecar can get.

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The only terrifying part is adding it up and realizing it was probably not worth it when coyote’s are so efficient hahah.

Speed wise if you turo a Tesla plaid model S, you’re getting the sense of acceleration and for the giant sum or $200/day haha.

But I’m happy with it. Biggest thing is to build what you wanna build and work at it. I did two smaller builds before this and now I’m redoing most of that stuff to do it the way I always wanted. Do it once and right and save time/hassle that way
 

01yellercobra

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My buddy has a mk4 Supra and when he took me for a ride it was on the 950hp tune. It was insane. It just never stopped pulling. Now it's somewhere in the 1300-1400hp range. I'm in no hurry to get back in that seat.

For exhaust stuff I consistently logged 20psi on my set up. When I added the headers it dropped to 18.5-19psi depending on the weather. So I dropped pulley size to get back to 20. I need to log it again now that I pulled the cats just because I'm curious.
 

04oxfordvert

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Thanks!

We had Livernois build a 4.6 aluminum cammer block into sleeved/coated 5.3 BB/stroker. Used gt500 heads with a full race port and MMR turbo cams. Intake is an fr500c with the 8.2” runner plumes. It’s been running with twin 62/65 comp turbos but I’ve gotten older and to slow down a bit and add drivability, we’re putting in twin 58’s and a Holley efi. The Turbos will be less productive, but the Holley should be much more accurate and let us rev cleanly to 8-8500rpm which it kinda wants.

We did 813whp on pump gas 10-11psi, 1070whp on 20psi with booster and 1208whp on 30psi.

The heads and cam make a huge difference. It lowers the pressure in the motor and moves everything out much better. It doesn’t make sense until you think about the flow restriction and ultimate cfm movement. If you take a big blower car on 25psi and do heads/cam, it’ll pick up 40-50whp, but the boost will fall to 22-23psi iirc +/-.

Blower though can force the air through, turbos are very sensitive to head and more so exhaust restriction. It’s why turbo cars see so much outta head/cam work while it almost seems like lost money on a blower car. But, it’ll run much cooler and more consistently on a blower car, since it has less restriction. Heat comes from stress and pressure as we all know so I still recommend atleast porting heads and doing a 98 cobra cam setup on a blower car if it’s not in the budget to buy racier grinds.

I don’t think it’ll make much more power revving to 8-8500rpm but it should be pretty flat line/not fall off. If I can stretch out to 8500 on kill mode, it would make the car much faster. For the street I can short shift at 6k and still walk away pretty hard from bolt on hellcats and the like but I want the revs for the really fast stuff. I’d like to get down to 3250lbs with a cage, but keep stereo, and run a nice light sport seat, etc. I think 1000-1200whp at 3250lbs might be enough to keep up with 1300-1400whp heavy weight cars like turbo newer gt500’s, hellcats and and zl1’s.

15-20 years ago 1000whp was rare and ridiculously fast but today it’s like 1500-2000whp+ is the new cool kid neighborhood.

When this motor blows, I’m doing gen 2 coyote with supporting mods and letting it eat. It would require a lot of financial ease and green pastures for me to build a motor like this again. This was honestly a huge expense and coulda been way easier to do a gen 2 coyote build but we put this together in 2015/16. It’s held up good though but the car rarely gets driven.
My good god that engine bay looks amazing!

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Murderedsvt

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Did some wrenching on my brothers car. She’s a driver, not a looker hahahaha. Help him out where I can. He has 4 kids, so the car doesn’t get much love. He’s been stock piling parts for about 8-10 years. Doing head studs, 2.8h KB, return fuel system, 2 465 pumps, VC’s, 26 spline input shaft and a new clutch.

The before….
View attachment 1836958

Nice little nest…
View attachment 1836959

Baby blower….2.65” pulley
View attachment 1836960

Covers off
View attachment 1836961

Swapped studs 1 bolt at a time.
View attachment 1836962

Freshly PC black VC’s back on.
View attachment 1836963

Not bad for 5 hrs worth of work on day 1.
I need to pull my covers off ….
 

TerminatoRS

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Dropped my car off at the stereo shop for a complete install of some Focal / Jl audio goodness. Hopefully this comes out like I want.
Have you used Focal before? I hadn't had any experience with them before, but rolled the dice on the flax evo line a couple years back in my F150. 6.5 components up front, 6.5 coaxial in the rear, 5-channel amp (75x4 I believe). Retained the factory head unit to maintain stealth because it's a company vehicle. Nothing crazy and very basic, but worlds better than stock. Really happy with Focal. I'd like to get some for my Vette, but they've gotten pretty pricey since I bought mine.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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I wanna try ona these
 

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