BfB
Banned
Should I be disappointed? I'm not sure how to take it actually. For one, I can look at it that I spent $500 and gained 37 rwhp and 85 rwtq, but then I can look at it and think about how others have gained nearly that amount of hp w/ just a chip.
Here's last years #'s versus todays:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/dyno/lightning/bubba/stockvsmodded.gif
(if you're running I.E. 6.0 maximize your browser window so you can view w/out it auto-resizing the pic, you may even need to refresh, or just click on the "resizer" on the lower right of the browser window when you hover over the pic w/ your cursor)
BTW, these will be ALL SAE corrected #'s I will be giving. Some of you are giving STD which will inflate your #'s by as much as 20.
Mods currently are:
JL Diablo Chip
JL 5# Lower
K&N
Previous dyno #'s are w/ just a K&N.
First, I dynoed back in Sept. '01 in basically exact same conditions (so nearly exact that the same correction factor was used, and temp and barometer were w/in 1%), so when you hear me say "stock" you'll at least know this wasn't all done today. Also, every run was done w/in 5 min. of each other so I had not much time for cooldowns between runs. I wanted it hot off the street, not bone cold like on a winter morning (like some of you dynoqueens test). And believe you me it was HOT: try 100+ degrees in the testing facility!
2nd, I gained 53.04 hp & 79.53 tq at 3500, so that does sound a lil better than just saying I gained only 37 peak rwhp.
3rd, I tested a mod done by my dad Ivan (usahooters). Well, needless to say it didn't work on the dyno. It actually suffered. BUT, I know this mod works because we have backed it up at the track w/ .1 to .2 better (in the 1/8 people). This mod also costs less than $1, but for all practical purposes we call it IvanLightning's FreeMod. Here's 2 pics:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/mods/ivanlightning/filter1.jpg
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/mods/ivanlightning/filter2.jpg
Here's the graph so you can compare:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/dyno/lightning/bubba/stockvsairboxmod.gif
As you can see going back to the stock airbox setup (keep in mind I have a K&N not a factory paper) gave me 2.53 hp and 10.35 tq (btw, I backed these #'s up, AND I did the airbox mod dyno test FIRST, then factory stock setup 2nd). Look at the #'s down low at 3500, though: A gain of 5.97 hp 8.96 tq for the stock airbox setup. The gains were true throughout the rest of the curve, too. Down low it made more than double difference on the hp.
Reason that this freebie mod suffered on the dyno is simple:
Stationary, extremely hot (100 degrees today in the dyno facility), and no moving air. Just so you'll know, it does work when moving. Try it, it takes less than 10 min. to do, and only a couple of minutes to go back to stock (plus the next time you want to switch back to the mod it'll take only a couple of min instead of about 10 since the holes are already drilled for the zip ties).
In case you're wondering how it works, all you do is remove the lower portion of the airbox completely out of the truck, and keep just the upper part (people, Ford designed the top of the airbox plenum like that for a reason so keep it). And, you don't have to worry about sealing issues as the zip ties keep it attached very well. Think of it this way: Those who have actually drilled holes in their airbox really goofed.
That's all for now,
Here's last years #'s versus todays:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/dyno/lightning/bubba/stockvsmodded.gif
(if you're running I.E. 6.0 maximize your browser window so you can view w/out it auto-resizing the pic, you may even need to refresh, or just click on the "resizer" on the lower right of the browser window when you hover over the pic w/ your cursor)
BTW, these will be ALL SAE corrected #'s I will be giving. Some of you are giving STD which will inflate your #'s by as much as 20.
Mods currently are:
JL Diablo Chip
JL 5# Lower
K&N
Previous dyno #'s are w/ just a K&N.
First, I dynoed back in Sept. '01 in basically exact same conditions (so nearly exact that the same correction factor was used, and temp and barometer were w/in 1%), so when you hear me say "stock" you'll at least know this wasn't all done today. Also, every run was done w/in 5 min. of each other so I had not much time for cooldowns between runs. I wanted it hot off the street, not bone cold like on a winter morning (like some of you dynoqueens test). And believe you me it was HOT: try 100+ degrees in the testing facility!
2nd, I gained 53.04 hp & 79.53 tq at 3500, so that does sound a lil better than just saying I gained only 37 peak rwhp.
3rd, I tested a mod done by my dad Ivan (usahooters). Well, needless to say it didn't work on the dyno. It actually suffered. BUT, I know this mod works because we have backed it up at the track w/ .1 to .2 better (in the 1/8 people). This mod also costs less than $1, but for all practical purposes we call it IvanLightning's FreeMod. Here's 2 pics:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/mods/ivanlightning/filter1.jpg
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/mods/ivanlightning/filter2.jpg
Here's the graph so you can compare:
http://www.lightningforums.com/images/dyno/lightning/bubba/stockvsairboxmod.gif
As you can see going back to the stock airbox setup (keep in mind I have a K&N not a factory paper) gave me 2.53 hp and 10.35 tq (btw, I backed these #'s up, AND I did the airbox mod dyno test FIRST, then factory stock setup 2nd). Look at the #'s down low at 3500, though: A gain of 5.97 hp 8.96 tq for the stock airbox setup. The gains were true throughout the rest of the curve, too. Down low it made more than double difference on the hp.
Reason that this freebie mod suffered on the dyno is simple:
Stationary, extremely hot (100 degrees today in the dyno facility), and no moving air. Just so you'll know, it does work when moving. Try it, it takes less than 10 min. to do, and only a couple of minutes to go back to stock (plus the next time you want to switch back to the mod it'll take only a couple of min instead of about 10 since the holes are already drilled for the zip ties).
In case you're wondering how it works, all you do is remove the lower portion of the airbox completely out of the truck, and keep just the upper part (people, Ford designed the top of the airbox plenum like that for a reason so keep it). And, you don't have to worry about sealing issues as the zip ties keep it attached very well. Think of it this way: Those who have actually drilled holes in their airbox really goofed.
That's all for now,
